Dan M

This should be a law.

Lots of nice hardware there. Especially suspension & brakes. I thought I've spent way too much on mine, this guy has gone off the deep end. I'm not too crazy about the multi-color scheme. Three different reds on the bike is too much.

They definitely last. The handling is not as sharp as most modern sport bikes. They are heavy, rear biased bikes. It has plenty of comfort and a soul-full engine. The bikes are pretty reliable but will require more fiddling to keep it running perfectly. It will not flick as easily as a Ducati but the stability is there and they carve through high speed sweepers as if on rails. It all depends on what you are looking for. Many on this sight are looking for more power out of their V11. A little more power can be had fairly easily but if a S4rs is your yardstick on handling and acceleration the Guzzi will never measure up.

I'm worried about this myself. I've been seriously considering a Touno. The down side is it will likely have to replace the LeMans. On the Aprilia side of the scale is power, handling, less fiddling and I think reliability. For the Guzzi, the heart & soul of that motor, comfort (fairing & seat) and of course the look & feel. I'm ready for a change but I'm afraid of how I'll feel after the new wears off. I've asked Ben here who owns both (RSV not Tuono) and he gave me great info that made me lean toward the Aprilia then I read Paul's words in this thread and I pause. At least winter is near and I have some time to think (agonize) about it.

Anything that causes the fuel to ignite spontaneously and create a second flame front will cause pinging. Higher combustion temps are a major cause but a poor combustion chamber shape that doesn't allow the charge to burn smoothly and completely can also add to the possibility of pinging. I'm sure some of the bikes here ping from a lean mix, some from burning low octane fuel, some with a pile of carbon built up, some that have excessively high compression, some only in hot dry weather, and others that like to open the throttle wide at low RPM in a high gear. Usually it is a combination of factors. that is why some do it and others do not. I would say that valve adjustment, TPS adjustment and T-body balancing are often causes for poor running on these machines they are not likely a source of pinging.

I believe in this circle that would be capo di cazzo

Me too. I was wondering what happened to that guy.

I don't think you are a poser Dave. You'd need more chrome. Like this guy.

Bravo Motoguzznix! That is the most concise instruction for proper TPS & idle setting that I've seen here.

I love that look but wonder how much heat is on the rear brake master cylinder or if you leave part of your boot on the pipe.

Couple of thoughts. It is not the spring. If it breaks you have nothing. First thing to check is the shifter. They get cruddy at the pivot point and hang up. - Clean & lube is the fix for that. Otherwise it may be the shift mechanism inside the cover is sticking and not returning to center after shifting. Removal of the side cover and a clean out of the lube that has become thick from metal content. Fresh lube with molly additive after the clean out should fix it if that is the trouble. Many here including myself have switched to Redline Shockproof lubricant without the need for the molly additive. Works great. Other than that the problem may be deeper. Full disassembly may be needed to find the trouble. Hope this helps Edit: Mine had a very similar shift problem. The clean out & Redline lube fixed it. I would certainly give it a look before altering any adjustments. The eccentric under the acorn bolt moves the entire mechanism. It would likely effect more than one gear.

I wanted the Pazzos but they weren't available for the V11 when I bought. I went with the CRG. Similar appearance & function to the Pazzo. Great feel & adjustability.

"The Cleaver" - it is in response to a friend claiming his Ducati cuts like a scalpel.

My valves were all quite tight (near US spec). I set them at 6 & 8 thou. Problem 75% gone.

I'm with you Pete. If they do indeed create a modern assembly plant, it would be a major commitment. I'd think they they would want to protect their investment and pour more money into R&D.

I agree. A modernized assembly plant could only improve quality.

There have been many threads about spark knock or pinging. I thought I'd give some insight to the causes When things are happening as planned, the spark plug starts the party. The flame spreads rapidly in all directions until the whole charge is burned. During combustion the pressure in the combustion chamber rises to several hundred psi. The trouble starts when the last part of the mix explodes before the flame front gets there. As combustion pressures rise, the temperature of the mix increases. If the temp is too high the remaining mix will ignite before the flame front gets there. Under normal combustion the flame velocity is approximately 30 meters per second. When the mix ignites spontaneously the velocity can be more than 1000 meters per second. The shock waves of this violent explosion hammering against the inside of the combustion produces the clattering knock we hear. Since temperature plays a roll, octane matters. The higher the octane the higher the flash point and the slower the flame front. Anything that increases combustion chamber temperature will increase the likelyhood of knock: Higher compression; advanced timing; combustion chamber deposits; lean mixture; high engine load; high ambient temp. Allowing this condition to continue unchecked can cause catastrophic damage to an engine. Hope this helps.

My bike developed this same issue. (stumble but no ping) I already had aftermarket crossover / mufflers / PC3 / pistons / drilled air box lid. The bike ran perfectly with all these mods. The 3000rpm misfire started on one very hot day. Additionally, it will miss at idle occasionally. Since then it has occurred more often. It had all the earmarks of a lean misfire. I looked closely for loose intake boots or cracks. Re balanced the TB's; Re-rebalanced the TBs and set the TPS. No change. Someone here indicated that they enriched that range on the PC3 with good results. I at first rejected the idea since the bike ran so well before and nothing else was changed. Later I did add fuel across the 2500 - 4500 range. Minimal improvement. There has not been that many miles since the last valve lash check but now I'm thinking that my guides are worn and my valves are not holding their spec. That is the next place I'm looking.

Excellent comapro Moto. Thanks.

S/N ratio; well put Skeeve. For some reason as quantity rises so does the percentage of bull shit posts. It's seems to be universal.

At least to make sure it doesn't look like this

The OE pads were recommended with these rotors. I was somewhat worried about sintered pads scoring the iron but no trouble at all. Mine had relatively low mileage and were in good shape. They have performed great for the last two seasons.

I have the Axis Iron rotors. The weight savings there is very small. The performance of the rotors is nice. The initial bite is not as grabby as the Brembo stainless units but the feel & feedback, especially when braking hard is really good. The down side is iron rotors rust instantly. If I ride in the rain I have to dry them when I put it away otherwise they are brown in the morning. The major weight savings was the wheels & mufflers. - 22lbs between them.