Dan M

the small headlights look nice too....

It has unscrewed all the way but the rod and the weight of the lower assembly is pulling on the cap. If the wheel is still on there is even more weight. With the wheel on, back off both caps (until they are clicking) and jack up the wheel. The caps will rise together and then you can hold the jam nut and break it free of the rod. If the wheel is off then just push up on the lower tube to get the cap up and away from the upper tube to expose the jam nut.

Wilbers 641 on that rear shock. Several here including myself feel that it transforms the bike. Also the factory springs in the Marz forks are quite weak. If you are anything over about 150 lbs you may want to consider respringing too.

Looks like nice craftsmanship but I HATE the whole unrideable chopper scene. He ruined the bike. At least if he did it to a Harley as most do, he would have started with a bike that didn't handle worth a shit to begin with.

Not bad to open for a look see. Take the side cover off before any major dismantling. Perhaps the trouble is in the shift mechanism in the cover or it just needs a good clean out and new lubricant. Make sure the shift lever is tight and lubricated too. (sounds like it may be worse though) The hardest part of cover removal is getting one of the lower socket head bolts out because there is not much clearance. A shortened socket works well. Put the trans in neutral before pulling the cover to avoid confusion going back together.

I have an FBF with about 5000 miles on it. No modification other than clamping a plate to it to make use of the factory hanger. No cracks. (where is that knock wood emoticon when I need it) These kind of parts usually will crack if in a bind. If they can't move freely on the mounts it will surely crack from vibration. When you install keep everything loose including the head pipes. Put the whole system together. Align everything and wiggle it around to make sure nothing is in a bind and is hanging from the mountings naturally. Then snug everything evenly from front to rear.

Yes I finally got the cush in June. Not much cush to it though. It is an adaptor that plugs into the rubberized holes in the wheel. There is some give but not much. I posted pics of the wheels before I mounted them here. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=8003 I'll put some up of them on the bike Edit. If anyone orders these be sure to specify if you have an Ohlins or Marz fork. The front bearings are different. The importer did not tell me there were two part numbers to choose from and of course he ordered the wrong one. Rather than have further hassles returning it and waiting even more time I just bought bearings to fit and cut a new spacer

I fitted Marvics this summer. The weight savings is big. If I recall it is 4 lbs on the front and about 8 lbs in the rear. I can check those numbers.

My thoughts are with Tom, Van. What a terrible accident. I hope his recovery continues to be miraculous. I imagine sharing motorcycling with your son has to be a wonderful experience. I hope you get to do it again someday.

Anybody heading north to Very Boring Rally II? (August 22-24) http://www.boringrally.com/

That's about the best description I've heard of our lovely factory engine finish.

Thought I'd dredge this old thread up. Before I start drilling rivets. Has anybody had to repack? If so, how long did the original matting last? My M4 carbons seem to be getting louder. It could be my imagination but I think I'm setting off more car alarms on the way to work than when they were new. Any recommendations for replacement material?

The adhesive on the tape is quite strong. Clean the surface of grease with soap & water and you will have no trouble. A couple of rows of the tape slightly overlapped is all you'll need. I can't speak of the spray adhesive but I'd think it would be pretty good too. If you need to get the old glue off the underside try some mineral spirits on a rag. I'm always leary of using any stronger solvents on a plastic tank.

Società Per Azioni (Italian: shared company) Società a Responsabilità Limitata (Italian: limited company)

Great stuff. Certianly on my list of things to do someday.

Couple of thoughts. The rings should have a stamping mark on them. Usually a small circle or dot. The mark should be up. Be sure to clean any carbon ridge from the top of the bore. If the new rings pass higher than the old you don't want them to run into it. A very slight hone to break the glaze is a good idea. DO NOT GO THROUGH THE COATING. A ball hone works good for this.

Hey Dave, A tape or pad will insulate much better than a coating. This woven, reflective tape is widely available. A 15' roll will leave plenty leftover for creative uses like the cat's back before venturing out into the sun. http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Lincoln/In...133920_m-34.htm These sheets are also available. http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Insulation...2611_p-1219.htm

Ha! That describes most of 'em. And yes, If you are in a bike shop, you should be nearly overcome with the aromas of new rubber, various petroleum products and just a hint of carbon monoxide from the back room. Makes me feel like I've arrived somewhere special.

+1. I'm 50 and need a thread like this every once in awhile to bring me back to reality. I've looked long and hard at a couple of naked bikes like the Touno and the Super Duke. While I'd love the performance, surely I'd miss the "all around" capability of the LeMans. Now there is that R1200S that is supposed to be comfortable for an old fart......

Just remember your safety glasses

Sorry docc, I just saw this. Yes, both have minor play side to side and up / down. I'd guess about 1-2mm each way.

I agree with all of this (so what's wrong with anal behavior?) except for one point. Plugs do clean up fairly quickly. As long as there is not a thick crust on the insulator they will change color in one drive cycle. Looking at his photos full size they appear dark but not caked. In the old days of carburetors and chokes, plugs would blacken on every start up and clean up to light tan right after warm up. This happens to a lesser degree with fuel injection as fueling is leaner across the board but when we talk about this marvelous Guzzi system best to do the extended ride at open throttle as I mentioned earlier and confirmed by senor Ratchet.

1) They look quite rich. These bikes tend to be rich at idle. Did you let it idle for awhile before pulling those plugs? Was it warmed up? Running a hot engine at steady speed (3000 - 4000 RPM) for a mile or more then pulling the plugs without letting it idle for any length of time is the best way to get a color read. Poor contact at the temp sensor will also cause rich running at all rpms. Seems to be a common problem. 2) I don't think you will damage anything. 3) Your problem is fuel, not ignition. 4) If the air filter is extremely dirty it will also cause richness. If it is clean it is not your problem. 4) Opening the exhaust as you did will cause it to run more lean not rich. Look elsewhere.