Dan M

Got that freebe offer myself. Pretty tempting. Edelweiss does a good job in Europe. Been thinking about offering a split to a friend to make it 1/2 price as you say. There's been a few too many "solo" trips lately though, a divorce may cost me more than the 1/2 price savings...

I've never had one of these apart either but you are right about easier than a carburetor. There is not much there. I doubt there is an o-ring or other rubber seal on the throttle shaft. Most rely on the fit of the throttle shaft against the brass bushing. The only replaceable seal is probably an o-ring on the air screw. (I'd certainly be interested to know if anyone has dismantled one of these and there actually is a replaceable seal) Try to wobble the throttle shaft from side to side. There should be a very small amount of play. If it is really sloppy the bushings are worn and that is the source of your vacuum leak. If it is snug, I'd look elsewhere.

From your first post I gather that you pulled the plug and held it against the head so you saw spark at the plug electrode, yes? That would rule out anything in the wire or cap. I'd lean towards the too much fuel idea. You have spark, you probably didn't lose compression without hearing any horrible noises. Black & sooty plug is either weak spark or too much fuel. Is the other plug black also? If one side is clean I would rule out any sensor or electrical fuel control issue. A drippy injector is far more common than a weak coil. Pull the hose from the port on the manifold and see if gas drips out. You can also pull the injector from the manifold. Cycle the key on and see of it sprays fuel. There should be no fuel with key on & engine off and pulsing spray when cranking. Cut the top off of a plastic coke bottle and use it to catch the gas. Be careful with gas and spark! If the injector is leaking it is probably not bad but just has deposits making it stick. A good quality cleaner in the fuel may help unstick. If you get to the bottom of all of this be sure to check the oil. A leaking injector can wash past the rings and contaminate the oil with fuel.

So very true. People have always lined up for snake oil. Some people will argue in the face of proof. I remember a particular "knowledgeable enthusiast" touting the merits of Slick 50 and Splitfire spark plugs even after the feds went after those companies for false claims. A sucker born every minute as they say.

"Go / No-go" is an easy check. Set it to spec with light drag. Check it with the next size up. Should be quite tight. The next size down should be very loose. No need to do every valve like this but you will get the "feel" for what is right after checking a couple. edit: This assumes you have a feeler gauge set, not just the spec sizes.

Looks like it needs a little TLC. The PO doesn't seem to be to big on maintenance. How does the oil look? What happened to the front turn signals? I think with a little effort you'll have a nice LeMans.

That left side wear is pretty normal especially if a lot of the mileage is on crowned roads. The heavier the bike, the more prevalent it is. Running low air pressure exaggerates it even more. I get it on my LeMans, it is worse on my RT and I used to have a Valkyrie that really did it. Of course inspect the bike before you buy, but if there is no sign of it going down I wouldn't worry and spoon on a new set of rubber.

I've seen similar CO readings. Fueling at idle is always pretty rich. I've gotten a good idle at as lean as 3% but much leaner and it is unsteady. At 2500rpm and above (unloaded) it cleans up nicely and stays in the 2% range. (Oh for the want of a dyno to check it loaded) I too get the 3000 rpm hiccup in really hot conditions. I'm going to try to enrichen that band some with the P.C. as Andy suggested.

Just like Tom said. I don't know anything about the current Dunlops though and have always had a better experience with the Pirelli / Metezler / Continental lines. The cross tires like the Scorpion will be better in the loose stuff but the V11 is really not a gravel bike. A sport touring tire probably best matches the LeMans' intended use.

Always bad to hear. Glad you're OK. Sounds like the sump and the fairing are the worst of it. Nice that Pete has a sump available. Most everything else can be had pretty easily I'd imagine. Good luck.

Glad you found it Antonio. Is that the adjuster you had indicated in your original post?

I had the same question. WTF? One thing about composite brake components. They've always needed complete warm up for optimum performance. Not so good for street use. I wonder if whey came up with something new to bite better when cold. I put BrakeTech Axis ductile iron rotors on my bike. They're ighter than the stock stainless and have a wonderful progressive feel with the stock Brembo pads. Only one problem with iron though, if you ride in the rain and put her away wet, they are rusty in the morning.

Andy, Just curious, how much did you enrich those rpm/throttle zones? +5? +10? More?

Many here with your rim size went to a 160. The 180 will slow handling. Mine has the wider rim and had a 180 tire from the factory. I recently switched to a 170 (on the advice found on this forum) and the bike steers much more quickly now.

Anthony, It's been awhile since I've been in there. I believe that eccentric centers the other spring. The one that causes the mechanism to return to center after shifting. With the cover off adjust it for equal pressure returning to center position after either up or down shift. Is it possible the gearbox was not in neutral when you put things back together? Your adjuster mechanism may not be in sync with the trans and you are running out of movement before you get through all the gears. Put the trans in neutral before you pull the cover then look at the selector plate on the cover. Set it to neutral (between 1st & 2nd ). If things were shifting OK before the pawl spring break leave the acorn adjuster alone.

That would be a pretty deep puddle on a V11! Even in a hard rain not too much water would get in. It is much easier for the motor to draw air through the filter. Water, if any would enter as a mist.

Seems you already know.

I like the Contis too. I have Road Attacks on my RT. Smooth, quiet, reasonably quick turn in & nice stability when leaned over.. I havn't seen much rain with them though so I can't comment about wet grip. That's all about to change though. I'm doing 800+/- miles this weekend and the forecast doesn't look good. Hopefully they are as good as the Diablo Stradas or the Metz Z6s in the rain.

That's a different Orange County. the OCC idiots are from the right coast if I'm not mistaken.

Richard, How's the intake noise? Some have complained of excessive intake roar with pod filters. I like the look too but mine is loud enough for me as is.

Is it possible the valves were set too tight with the tune up? All of your mods will require a different map for proper fueling but won't create the stalling symptom you describe. Tight valves will, fuel starvation (tank suck as gstallons suggested) also will.

Race fuel is good for avoiding knock but with the higher flash point it is also harder to ignite. Under certain conditions, like if your mix is lean it may be more likely to misfire with the high octane.

That's too bad. Looks like they are all adjusting their rates for both weather and human "environmental hazards". I like N.O., usually go down for 4 days or so to binge & purge about one a year. I have witnessed the fine driving habits. When I was there last month I noticed nearly every cab driver I had was Haitian and they drove with a vengeance. Not the southern, laid back, no rush "how y'all doin" I was accustomed to. Good luck with your search.

Wow, how old are you? I wonder if it is the flood scare. I have full coverage Progressive on my Guzzi, BMW and Husky - $353.00 for all of them per year.

One more for Rich. He's done two for me. He reshapes them and adds a gel pad if you want. Fine work.