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Everything posted by Dan M
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Very cool. You guys are an inspiration. I've dreamed of setting up my Atlas for this. Never have found the time, energy or money to deliver on the promise though. Life always seems to be in the way. Good luck & have fun. What about the "The Flying Tulip Brothers"
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quazi, How do they act in the rain? I haven't had the opportunity yet. As I said earlier, the Stradas were great in the wet. I'm hoping the Diablos are as good. On a side note, the brit mag "Bike" tested several of the sport touring tires on the track. It seems the only criteria was lap times (not very real world), the good news is the Diablo Stradas came out nearly tied at the top with the Dunlop Roadsmart. There was only one tester trying each set on a Triumph Sprint. It would have been nice to get different opinions.
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docc, It won't change your running. It is about plug life more than anything. A hotter plug will stay cleaner in a rich enviornment. Going too hot for a particular mixture may cause knocking from pre-ignition. If your plugs are white and blistered looking around the insulator you may want to go cooler or if they are dark and sooty you may want to go hotter but both are indicators of improper fuel mixture. The real fix is to get the mix right.
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True story, I've seen some real relics around here and not too well preserved either. The other fuel related sighting is scooters of all makes and sizes are popping up. Two or three years ago they were almost never seen. A couple more years of this and it'll be like Rome. Only with less talent at the controls.
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No, it was part of the screen, a layer that was by far thinner than the static cling protective film they use. I rode the bike today. The screen has a funny glossy texture now that will scratch easily with a fingernail. It reflects badly in daylight. I ordered a 2820 to replace it. At least I had a good excuse for the upgrade
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Curious problem. I went out to the garage this morning and the screen on the Garmin was all wrinkled. The bike has been sitting for a few weeks. The screen looks like it had a protective coating that was damaged somehow. The thin layer flaked off with my finger and the screen is completely readable but has a glossier finish now. It appears it will scratch very easily. Seems like it was attacked by a strong chemical. I haven't even washed the bike lately. The only thing I can think of is I was spraying some insecticide in the corners of the garage about a week ago. Nowhere near the bike but the fumes were definitely in the air. This sort of thing ever happen to anybody? I've had this GPS for 3 or 4 years, it's been bulletproof until this.
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The Stradas were great, incredible in the wet. I had about 3500 miles on them and still good tread and round profile. I didn't want to put used tires on the new Marvic wheels so I picked the Diablos. I hope I don't regret switching from the Stradas. I'll write more after an extended ride with the 170.
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To verify if your clutch master is pushing fluid, remove the line at the master, put your thumb or finger over the hole with enough pressure to allow fluid to pass when you squeeze the lever but then not let air back in when you release. After a couple of squeezes on the lever you should not be able to stop the flow with your finger. If the flow is sufficient to push past your finger when you squeeze the lever, the master is probably OK and there is a line full of air like has been suggested. Be sure to cover painted surfaces in case the master really is good and it squirts fluid!
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I'm trying the regular Diablos this time (from the Stradas) Made the move to the taller, narrower 170/60 rear. That and the lightweight Marvics and it practically turns by itself. Unfortunately, my schedule has been so cramped lately I've only been able to take a quick 10 mile ride the night I put them on. Feels really good though. +1 on the Road Attacks. I put a set on my RT in the spring, my first Contis, I'm impressed.
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Like Tom says and be sure to keep the reservoir from going empty. Mityvac is the way to go especially for home use. There are also devices that push fluid backwards through the system (uphill) that work even better but are more costly. Phoenix Injector is one I use. Motorcycle clutch and brake master cylinders are of such low volume that pumping the lever is usually just moving the air up and down in the line.
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It kind of sounds like your starter is drawing too many amps when hot. Wow, 10 minutes at idle (tickover) on an already hot engine? I don't know if that's standard practice around here but I generally tend to shut mine down if it has to run for half that amount of time with no air flow. Perhaps I'm just paranoid.
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+1 on a Garmin. I use a 2610 as well. Gadget guy has nice mounts. http://www.gadgetguy.net They can be adapted to just about anything.
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I'm about to replace my mesh Hein Gerike after about 5 seasons. It's been great but is starting to fray around the edges. I wear a 3/4 length Rev'it textile jacket up to about 80f but switch to mesh above that. I have mesh pants that I find comfortable in hot weather as long as the speed is adequate for good air flow. At low speed I find the material rather uncomfortable. The new mesh jackets from Tourmaster and Cortech (same company) look good and are pretty cheap.
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How low? And, does it come back on or just stay out once the rpm is raised until the next start up?
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Only a .02v difference with mine .536 - .538 The butterfly cannot be sucked open. What would happen when you closed the throttle at high rpm? If the shaft bushings are worn the butterfly can rock around some and alter readings. I wonder if the bikes with this variance are high milers.
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That's why I'd like to see an apples to apples comparison. Less temp under the same conditions in the same bevel box means less friction. I suppose a lighter viscosity could mean less drag and higher temps though.
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I love this kind of info docc. The lowest temp means the least drag. It would be interesting to compare before redline and after redline in the same bevel box. Too many variables otherwise. Comparing different designs, comparing different mileages, comparing aluminum with gear lube tested with an infrared gun to ceramic with coffee tested with a palm.
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Brent has it. The regulator is the most likely suspect. Check all connections and grounds though...
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There was quite a bit of discussion about this issue on the BMW sporttouring forum some time back. I seem to remember that someone with actual knowledge of such things said the valve was at the pump and not underground and the hoses did not hold much fuel. It would follow that the plumbing from the valve to the nozzle couldn't hold more than a pint or two so if you are buying several gallons there won't be much dilution. Of course this is all hearsay but seems to make good sense.
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He's got some work to do I hope Junkyard wasn't waiting for 17 months for that information.
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The newer Battery Tender Plus is designed for AGM batteries. I've had no trouble with it.
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I'm on my 3rd season with a Hawker. I always use a battery tender when the bike will be sitting for more than a week or two. I've never checked for a parasitic draw on this bike but I've heard that they do pull a very small amount of amperage while parked. With the use of a battery tender you should get at least 4 years out of one.
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Sure are a lot of directions to go here. I'm getting from your prior posts that the bike ran good, you installed the exhaust and the PC3 and the bike now runs rich. If the bike ran good before the PC, why not load a 0 map and see how it runs? It takes minutes and your questions will be answered. If it leans back out you can pick another map or have a custom one made. If it doesn't then you can look for other issues.
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I like riding at night too, always have. Seems to feel like the bike is faster. It is faster to a degree with typically cooler more dense air, but I think the sensation is mainly due to the reduced sight distance & cooler temps. I do most of my daytime riding in the country, usually limiting city riding to commuting. At night it's a different story. Around town on a hot summer night with fewer cars around, it's a whole different world.