Dan M

If the ECU doesn't use the temp sensor's data to determine mixture then what is its function? Enlighten us please.

Hilarious

I wonder if you'll tire of the automatic stand. My Husky is equipped with the feature and many on the TT forum have circumvented it. They do tend to operate when you don't want them to. Under most circumstances I like it but if I want to check oil or add, there is a level plug that has to be removed on the right side and then the bike has to be leveled. As soon as I level the bike the stand springs up and then I have to balance the the bike while walking around the back muttering to myself in order to put the stand back down only to repeat the process after adding oil. The bike is too tall and the spring too stout for me to reach over the seat and deploy it by hand. I can visualize myself reaching over struggling with it and falling forward toppling all the bikes in my garage in domino fashion pinning myself in the process until my wife notices me missing an untold amount of time later and comes out to have a good laugh. Maybe not so much trouble on a V11

That looks like a pretty effective device there. It's true that the front tire stands up the nails for the rear to intercept. Having that shield standing guard is at least some prevention I must add that your wheel and visible driveshaft parts are astoundingly clean. I guess it really doesn't ever rain in southern California.

Time to change it to a Wilbers. They'll spring it to your weight. You'll feel like you bought a new bike.

Looks terrific Jason. I really like the look of the Magni fairing, even better than the factory LeMans.

Now you have a custom cut, one off Guzzi axle tool! I can't imagine it took too much massaging to fit it. After tiring of going into the bike's tool kit every time I needed the 14mm hex, I bought a 14mm-3/8 drive socket from my Snap-on dealer just a week ago. $24.77. gulp.

14mm is nearly identical to 9/16" if you can find one.

+1 on the Progrips - I use the 723.

I've seen an accumulation of pressure in many modern fuel tanks on hot days. That's that ffft noise when opening the cap. I haven't seen one rupture though. I'm not sure I buy that evaporation is the cause for poor mileage. I generaly fill my tank before storage. I live in Chicago where the fuel is blended seasonally. If I fill in mid to late December, I get winter formulated fuel. By late March when I prepare to ride again, and the bike has been sitting in a heated garage for 3 months, the tank is still... full. If evaporation was at such a greater rate than regular gas (which evaporates rather quickly if given the opportunity) as to cause a noticeable drop in fuel economy, then certainly I'd see a loss after 3 or more months. The complaint here is of far less mileage from a given tank of fuel. If someones tank range is off by 20-30 miles, and it was caused by evaporation, that means around 3/4 gallon has evaporated. That's 3/4 gallon more evaporation than with regular gas. On just one tank full! Just doesn't seem likely.

Welcome Redhog, Like others have said, removal is straight forward once you get the bike off the ground. A stand like Rocker suggests is the way to go. I can't remember as I no longer have stock exhaust but I believe you'll have to remove the right muffler to pull the axle out. Unbolt the rear caliper, remove the axle & left side spacer, slide the wheel off of the bevel drive. Pay attention to the spacer on the drive side of the wheel between the wheel spline and the bevel box. There is a locating block for the rear caliper holder that fits over a pin on the left side of the swing arm that may fall off, just slip it back on. If the stand lifts it high enough, you'll be able to wiggle the wheel past the fender without moving it. Nothing more to it Hope this helps. If you run into anything unforseen just post. There are plenty here who'll offer advise.

Good job Rich, looks great.

Evaporation is only a factor if you've removed your carbon canister. It is there after all to control evaporative emissions. When the bike is off (no vacuum to the vent valve) the system is essentially closed and nothing can evaporate. This is why some complain of a fuel odor in the garage only after removing the canister.

You're it. No you're it. No, you're it. No, you're it. No, you're it.... Mom! he won't leave me alone! "Boys, play nice!" Right about now is when Jaap will come in and pull the plug on this game of tag.

Ahh, more info. Carl is right, drain the fuel in the manner he described. I wouldn't worry too much about injectors that only have 40km on them. You may want to blast a little air pressure or carb spray in the inlets when you have the hoses off in case there is any muck inside. There probably isn't too much water in the system or it wouldn't run on either cylinder. If you siphon some of the gas you've drained from the bottom of the container into a glass jar, it will be quickly evident if there is water present.

Temperature has the biggest effect. The mix is far richer on a cold start up and an air cooled motor takes considerably longer to reach operating temp in the cold. If your sensor is inaccurate as Pete suggested (which it will be with an air gap) you are just compounding the matter.

This is an amusing thread. To bad Bob left and took his barnyard with him after the probation incident. A feral cat took the place of Serge after his unfortunate demise. So in essence Bob traded cock for pussy.

It is not actually a choke. It is merely a fast idle cam to keep it running on warm up. I rarely find the need to use mine.

I'm put off on behalf of gorillas everywhere. They are endangered after all. Furthermore, I'm offended at the suggestion that (we) Italians use mozzarella for bearing spacers even if it may be true. These attacks on wildlife, culture, and... sob...the dairy industry have to stop.

You need 3 things, compression, proper fuel mix, properly timed spark. It sounds like you have too much fuel, or maybe bad fuel from the long lay up. Sometimes these injectors leak (especially after sitting) flooding the cylinder with fuel. You can try swapping the injectors from side to side and see if your misfire follows. If the cylinder is really washed out with fuel, compression can be low. If you can't test compression, check the oil for a strong fuel odor. If there is a lot of gas in the oil, change it. Once your plug is fouled with fuel, replace it too.

Good thought Raz, the air temp sensor (in the air box) can be unplugged or open. I don't know how much weight the ecu gives air temp in the equation. Usually coolant temp (oil in our circumstance) has more effect on mixture. Certainly another thing to check though. Like the other, open (infinite) means cold - rich command. I'm worried about the old owner rewiring everything.

I thought you just came out of a deep sleep or something.

If the temp sensor is unplugged the infinite resistance throws the computer to full rich. (it thinks the temp is below zero) If the plastic mount is broken but the sensor is still plugged in it will run rich especially with a warm engine but not nearly as bad as having it unplugged. edit: one more thing about that temp sensor - if it is plugged in, unplug it and make sure the pins are not bent over. - Not likely but possible.

I just mounted a pair of RoadAttacks on my RT. Only a couple of hundred miles so far but I really like them. They are confidence inspiring, at least when dry. I have not had them in the rain yet. Noticably quieter than the Z6s they replaced. I did develop uneven wear on the front Z6 rather quickly which would account for the noise. Sounded like I had a bad wheel bearing when leaned over in a turn. Silent now.