Dan M

Hey cash, glad you things are OK for you in Christchurch. I went with Wilbers and am very happy with the improvement. The premium shocks you listed all have their advantages especially over the stock unit. I believe the most important thing though is having whatever brand you choose set up properly so the decision may best be made by which brand is represented by a quality vendor that services your area. Proper springing and set up are at least as important as brand.

Since they both were from San Diego I figured R hunted down D after being banned since he was one of his main board enemies. Not long after perhaps he headed up the coast. Next thing you know Greg has vanished. I don't know for sure but if I were GuzziMoto I'd sleep with one eye open

Like Ducati, Aprilia also suffers from tank swelling due to ethanol. The guys at AF1 Racing have had success drying them out. They say to remove the fill cap and sending unit to allow as much air flow as possible and they eventually (over weeks) return to original size and shape. From what I understand it is the moisture that the ethanol absorbs that gets into the material and causes the swelling. Both my Guzzi and Ape tanks are swelled enough to give difficulty when remounting. I planned to dry both out over the winter but as of yet I have not found the time to do it. To answer Hubert, We do have 10% but talk of 15% for 2007 and newer vehicles is coming. ...Thank Gore who now admits he was politically motivated for pushing ethanol on us.

She's hot alright. I read somewhere she was a pretty good rider.

I believe Rich has retired.

It is sad that they missed the mark by so far. As stated above, Norton pretty much got the retro-sport thing right. So did Triumph and Ducati. Moto Guzzi put all the wrong parts together.

I've restarted my 64 Atlas project so I've been searching some myself. These are mostly focused on British bikes but some have other stuff and additional links. http://clubmanracing.com/index.php http://www.domiracer.com/exhaust.html http://www.buchananspokes.net/ http://www.unityequipe.com/ http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/ http://www.walridge.com/section/view/ http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/StoreFront http://www.joellevinecompany.com/default.asp http://www.tbmperformance.com/

Definitely not as lively as before. It is the only Guzzi forum I frequent but admit not signing on as often as in years past. The button pushers and those who reacted to getting their buttons pushed have pretty much gone away so there is not as much entertainment now.

Whenever I read the "loosen the acorn nut and turn it some and see if that helps" advice, I cringe. If the unit was working properly at one point, the adjuster did not mysteriously move on it's own. That approach will more often than not take things out of proper adjustment. Of course we are talking about Moto Guzzis here and from what I've heard, mysterious things do happen. Transmission and TPS settings alter on their own and once tight oil filters seem to fall off. Never happened to me mind you, but I have read about it on the internet!

Too bad all of these transmission threads aren't linked together. When I had the sticking issue, the selector gears (#12&14) would not go fully into the next position when shifted. Then, the arm (#24) would not be able to reach the next pin (#15) Through cleaning kept it from sticking anymore. On mznyc's comment about it feeling like the springs were not of enough tension. Another thing I did when in there trying to figure things out, the eccentric(#9)acts against the spring(#28). If you position it 180 degrees from where it is shown in the image, it contacts the spring closer to the center for more tension and still maintains all of the up/down adjustment of the tension on the shift arm. When I set mine up before putting the cover back on I adjusted it so it was centered with equal throw on the arm to grab the pins on both the up-shift and the down-shift. It has worked fine and I did not have to do the "trial and error" adjustments others have talked about in prior threads.

From the image it looks like it would need a reduced end like the CRGs. Or no end at all. FYI, I put CRGs on my Aprilia. They looked really great but the convex lenses made the image too small for my aging eyes.

Have you been able to get in touch with Rich? I thought he had retired. I highly recommend his work.

+1 on the fuel starvation. Check the filter. Check power and ground to the pump also. 02 has a manual fuel tap - no worries there unless it is partially closed.

Have you consummated the relationship yet? Yes, do tell and show pics! They are quite lovely and fit the style of the V11. Do I remember them being a bit heavy though? How do they compare to the stockers in weight edit: Gene, did you pull the trigger on spokes?

Funny how everyone who dares to go over to the dark side and try the mod has reported an improvement in fueling. Yep, snake oil allright. Any long term results to report docc?

Thanks DAN that is the kind of info I need. Yesterday I richened the map quite a bit and got mixed results, I was going to look at the numbers to compare with other maps to look for similar trends. I have a K&N on my roadstar & that bike will run on about any jet I put in it. But the info you just gave me gives me a much better starting point. my exhaust are stock but I bought the bike used and the cans had a few dents in them, I flipped them over and cut off about 3 or 4 inches and riveted back together they are just open pipes with a perforated baffle & fiberglass packing. now they are just a little shorter, I like to have bags (hit the store on the way home) and the cans are turned down a bit to allow more room for the bags. I saw those maps you forwarded the ones with pods didn't have very large (richer) numbers? Many thanks, John Update, I got the poping to go away, you all were right, it was too lean- but I realize now this aaaa Seat of the pants tuning does not work (with any accuracy) I cant tell if I am too lean or too rich without diagnotic equipment; so I have called a couple shops, let me know what you guys think-- for 90 bones a map produced with a exhaust gas anylyser (Guzzi shop) or 300 bones gets me a dyno tune at a genuine Tuning center You can get closer than you think. Tuning with a gas analyzer will only be able to take readings at idle and at low throttle openings with no load so you won't get much for your $90. It is a good way to adjust your idle CO but not much else. You can read your spark plugs under those conditions and get pretty close yourself. A dyno run would be more useful but you can get your bike running right without it. I started with the 706-003 map as you did and added fuel in the same area. I do not have pods but I have a modified air box lid, FBF crossover and M4 mufflers. It ran very well like that in all but the hottest weather. The temp sensor change took care of the hot weather running. After Mike Rich pistons I also added a small amount of fuel at higher RPM ranges and wider throttle openings. No running issues at all now, no rich exhaust odor and improved gas mileage. Keep at it, these bikes reward you for your efforts.

............. I have read some threads about pods vs. open box but I am not concerned about peak HP, as long as the bike performs good. I think it would be cool to see what other maps look like on bikes that have pods. It seems as if not to many choices are on the pwrcmd site. The map I'm using is m706-503djm it has two fuel tables, and fuel table 2 had larger numbers in the lower rpm's .. I will add richness about 5% to column (throttle position) 2 & 5 at the row (RPM)1500-2750 to see if it is rich enough where my intake pop is happening. still open to any advice, I am a newby to FI Increase your fuel 500rpm lower than where your problem occurs and in the 10% throttle column in addition to what you are doing. Start with 5% but you may have add more. Are you running aftermarket crossover and mufflers? Did you look at the maps here?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020 edit: Oh and, welcome vanman.

Dan - Why would the false neutral /missed shift problem start to rear it's ugly head after a few miles and not immediately? And coincidentally with the neutral light beginning to illuminate all the time? Separate issues? Do you mean there was accumulated paste in the gearbox cover alone or in the cover and in the gearbox bottom? I never saw any dark paste accumulations and there is redline shockproof in there now. The paste was in the bottom, maybe 1/16" thick but there was a film everywhere. I think the fresh / different fluid lifted & spread it and made matters worse. Just a guess. Did you change any other settings in the cover? I'm thinking if your trans works most of the time it is not a faulty part but more like something sticking or slightly out of adjustment. The neutral switch is a normally closed switch. When the spring loaded ball is extended the circuit is closed turning the light on. When installed, the ball is always depressed until it falls into the detent when the selector is in the neutral position. Could it have backed out some? Could there be metal in the lube that is getting in and causing continuity? Could it have been damaged when taking the cover off? All possibilities.

The spring does not need much tension. It merely holds the arm against the selector. All it is doing is overcoming gravity. I discovered that if I bent the spring to relieve some of the pressure against the arm it did not wind up tight against the boss when shifting. That alone should make it last indefinitely. It is when it grabs the boss at the end of its travel and area of flex is greatly reduced that it is prone to fail. On the "freeze up" or missed shifts issue, the first time I changed my fluid, I switched to Spectro synthetic gear oil (because I had it on the shelf). No issues going in and no adjustments made, just a fluid change. Very soon afterward I had similar issues. Sometimes it would not come out of a gear, sometimes false neutrals, sometimes the shifter would not return to the centered position. I opened the cover and found there was quite a bit of accumulated dark paste all over and in the bottom. I really cleaned everything out, took the pawl arm off and smoothed & polished the surfaces where it slid against the selector pins. Going back together I filled it with Redine heavy. I have never had another shifting problem. The polishing of the ramp surfaces made for slicker gearshift feel returning to the centered position but I doubt it did anything else. I think the residual sludge in the box from the original fluid and normal wear was lifted by the new lube and it gummed up the works. The thorough cleaning and Redline is what solved it.

Outstanding Jaap. The large version of the old style falcon is perfect.

The future in the US? My fellow Americans, take a minute to give the AMA some help on this one. http://capwiz.com/amacycle/issues/alert/?alertid=15912501&queueid=

I'll try the adjuster next. I'll let you know. I wonder if anyone can think of a reason why the shifting degrades when the bike is warmed up? This is puzzling and leaves me skeptical that it is just the adjuster under the acorn nut. Yes. You may have worn splines on your clutch input hub and on the i.d. of the flywheel, or the flywheel may be packed with clutch dust. You can try cleaning it. This sometimes helps, though seldom for more than a few thousand miles. Then, you have to flush it again. Here's how: 1) Use a strip of duct tape to cover the weephole on the underside of the bell housing. 2) Put a drain pan under the bell housing. 3) Remove the timing plug and pour a pint of mineral spirits into the bell housing. 4) Plug the timing hole. 5) Start bike and lightly rev it while continually actuating the clutch lever for about 30 seconds. 6) Remove tape and let the goo drain out. Greg, Have you ever had any issues with the clutch becoming grabby or chattering after soaking the friction material with mineral spirits?

If it is stuck it does not work at all so that cylinder would be dead. If it has deposits holding it from sealing it will dribble or leak fuel and generally run rich. If the spray pattern is poor it usually causes a misfire under load, more so at low RPM. Some Seafoam in the gas can not hurt but as others have said, it is probably something else. You can always swap injecters left and right and see if the trouble moves with it. From your description "sneeze", I'm thinking you get a buck or pop when you twist the throttle from low RPM. If that is the case, I agree with Emry. It is lean.

The vast majority of injector malfunction is sticking, dribbling or a poor spray pattern caused by deposits. A good cleaner as docc mentioned will usually fix that. Mechanically, the spring that closes the pintle can break but it's very rare and fuel would just flow at all times when the pump was running. Electrically, the coil can short or go open. Usually they will short and can take out the driver in the computer. There have been some injectors prone to shorting but I don't think I've ever heard of the units Guzzi uses failing in this way. Either way, they wouldn't work at all so that cylinder would be dead. You can check resistance and compare side to side but I'd bet they are fine. If you suspect an injector, clean it. Past that, look elsewhere as others have suggested.

Measured at 3% water content.