Dan M

From what I've read the 8V motor is considerably stronger than the old mill. I've got to think a sport bike fitted with it is not too far behind in development. Might be wise to wait and see...

Hello Gordon & welcome. I don't know of any taller risers but also have the MPH units on my LeMans. Will you have clearance for something taller without your master cylinder reservoirs hitting the fairing? With mine mounted up & back and the reservoirs mounted so they are lower and more to the inside, I'm about at the limit of how high the controls can be without contacting the fairing.

I have to admit, I'm liking the extra leverage of the wider placement of the MPH set up. Not a bad thing on a relatively slow steering bike.

Not a pity, She doesn't look as ferocious but she doesn't need to. She still has that bark and, oh yea, those teeth, eh? My brother has had a couple of dobes with both ears & tail cropped. Both good looking, intimidating dogs with puppy personalities. I just had to put down my 15 year old Australian shepherd mixed with who knows what on Monday. I'm glad she was healthy and happy until very close to the end, still breaks my heart though.

nice Dobe - I like 'em with the ears natural

One thing to remember is the MPH kit comes with new brake & clutch hoses to complete the installation. Factor in the price & trouble of making up lines yourself with the other products.

I may have said this before but, my favorite part of this whole filtered oil, unfiltered oil, thick oil, thin oil, pressure relief valve, bypass valve, where to put the valve, cold oil pressure, hot oil pressure, clogged oil filter, and now exploding oil filter debate is, AFAIK the Guzzi has no oiling problems. That is of course, other than the ones caused by users/installers. As with any engine the parts most susceptible to insufficient oiling are the plain bearings. If the oil is kept reasonably clean and resaonably full, the bottom ends of these engines will last and last. So why do we need to re-engineer this?!?!?

It's gotta ruin the excellent feel & feedback of the Brembos.

I agree with everyone else here that you are describing ping. Before you get too crazy with it, follow RH's advice and change fuel. If the bike has not been used much and the fuel is months old or of questionable quality, buy a tank of name brand premium and see if it goes away.

Yes, My bike is an 02 and it has an integrated pressure sensor in the ECU. (this is for altitude) I think the location of the air temp sensor is not extremely important but you don't want it to be way off either. If you mount it behind the engine (near the throttle bodies) where there is some air flow, you'll be fine. The pods are more out in the wind than the standard air box snorkels above the cylinders. On most systems, fuel control is affected more by the coolant temp, or in our case, the oil temp sensor than the air temp sensor, so placement is probably not that critical.

The vacuum operated regulator is used to increase fuel pressure upon throttle opening. Of course it must be attached to manifold vacuum to operate so why it is installed on our machines but unused is a bit of a mystery to me. They typically reduce fuel pressure by 5 or so psi when 10 or more inches of vacuum is applied (closed throttle). I experimented with it as well and found that with it hooked up to manifold vacuum the CO% with closed throttle is reduced somewhat which would make for very slightly more efficient running but I too could not see a performance difference. It theoretically could be made to make a difference with extensive mapping because the instantaneous rise in fuel pressure as the throttle is opened will have sort of an accelerator pump effect; and when the throttle is closed the lower pressure will make for leaner running to save a slight amount of fuel. The down side is when in operation this type of regulator fails with some regularity. Leaving it static will certainly reduce the likely hood of the rubber leaking and flooding the engine. I now have mine open to atmosphere as it came from the factory. So far as the intake air temperature sensor is concerned it should be mounted in an area that will be the same approximate temperature as the air being drawn into the throttle bodies. Don't let it lay in the valley where things are considerably warmer.

+1 on the Mike Rich Pistons. I've had them in my bike this past season and am very pleased with how it runs. Never any detonation even in 90 degree heat. I'm considering a stage 1 porting job this winter.

I looked at the shop manual this morning and all it has is a rather poor exploded view of the oil system. There is no diagram of oil flow. Seems the only way to tell is to drop the sump, pull the filter housing, which contains both the thermostatic valve and the pressure relief valve and see which way it flows. This is however a bit of work to diagnose and prove something that really isn't a problem to begin with. Since no one has presented any evidence that there has been any accelerated engine wear or damage from filters with different spec relief valves! These oil systems are small and the pumps are of greater than needed pressure and volume. That my friends is why there is a pressure relief valve in the system. There is so much pressure and volume available - 80psi in your testing - that the difference between when a 10psi filter bypass and a 30psi bypass opens with all other conditions being equal is probably a fraction of a second. The difference will be how long it stays open. That will depend on how soon the oil can get through the paper. I see no way of determining when it happens or how long it lasts. Since there is no evidence of there ever being a problem resulting from these valves, I see no need to continue to beat this horse.

Too bad Ben, it's something that is all too easy to do this time of year for us in the north. Having good grip is easily assumed after a season of warm weather riding. Good luck with the fix.

Ryland, this is interesting. I'd like to look into location of these components but the pump bypass is typically on the pump, so, before the filter. The pressure sending unit's location is typically after the filter so what you are reading is pressure after the filter (Don't you think?) So what is happening between the pump and filter is unknown, but obviously the filter's bypass has to do not with how much pressure the pump puts out but how much the filter's media restricts the flow. In other words, what you are reading is not altered by the filter's bypass valve and there is no way of knowing if the oil is going through the paper or the valve when it gets to the sending port. 80 psi is certianly not unheard of for a pump relief setting, and the pump relief is the only thing that will limit the pressure. The filter does not limit pressure, the valve in the filter just redirects the flow. I'll look for a diagram of the oil circuit

Dave, when did I say that bypass pressure does not matter? I'm the one that says proper viscosity for a given temperature matter. I'm also the one that uses factory authorized UFI filters. (read more closely Dave) What you are overlooking is on a cold start when the oil is thick the pressure is much greater and it will either go through the paper or past the valve, instantly. The engine will not be starved. That said, let me ask you this. Is there any evidence or history out there of the ultra reliable Guzzi bottom end failing or experiencing premature wear due to the wrong filter bypass pressure? Or is this some sort of lubrication paranoia? In all my years as a mechanic (30+) and as a shop owner (26) servicing vehicles at a current rate of over 60 per week, I have never seen engine damage that can be traced to clean oil of the proper viscosity and a clean oil filter, regardless of bypass valve pressure. I service cars that have hundreds of thousands of miles and every winter are subject to not just sub freezing start-ups but sub zero start ups. If a given filter "meets or exceeds manufacturer's specifications" it is good enough for me. If all these brands of filters have a range of bypass pressures and the manufacturer's engineers don't care enough about it to specify then I'd have to say it probably doesn't really matter. There, now you can quote me. Where is that splitting hairs emoticon?

Hey Rac, Sump pan comes off easily. I generally clean my screen annually. After the first time it has never been too dirty. It is certianly easier to change (and properly tighten) the filter with the pan off.

I agree, we need a "splitting hairs" emoticon for some of these posts. Beating a dead horse??? You havn't been around here long, have you? This thread is only 3 pages long.

Dave, earlier posters were writing about clogged filters. Yes, I believe if a person, any person, leaves a filter in long enough to clog then that person, whoever they may be, is indeed an idiot. Perhaps I should have phrased it "if the bypass valve is running open" instead of "if the bypass valve is opening" Read your manual dave, it gives you temperature ranges for motor oils. 10W50 is likely good for far colder start-ups than it gets in SoCal. I don't have my manual in front of me but I'll bet it says 20Wanything should not be used below 10 or 15F. If you read my post, I said that passing thick (cold) oil without filtering until thin enough makes no difference. I never condemned bypass valves. I typically run 20W50 in my bike and yes, I pay too much for UFI filters, and no they have never loosened, and no, I have no idea when or if my filter is ever in bypass mode on a cold start up. I rarely ride this bike in temps that cold so I doubt much goes by without filtering. If you do take your V11 out on one of those frigid sub freezing SanDiego mornings, you should use the oil your owners manual calls for. That's why they print those things, you know? Holy shit, suddenly I'm understanding what triggers RH's verbose responses to you. Any more questions for smartypants? Edit: the Guzzi manual's oil temperature chart recommends 20W oils down to 0C (32F); 10W oils down to about -12C (10F)

An Alaskan road hazard

Gotta agree with Ratch on this one. Since none of us (at least I hope) are running straight 40W year around as I read somewhere in one of these filter threads. If your filter is so plugged as to bypass, you have probably never, or rarely changed it. Most reading this forum probably change oil & filter ahead of schedule, and at the very least, annually. At that rate, these filters are not even close to the end of their service life. (One area that overkill is OK IMHO) Further, just for argument, lets say you're running 20W50 and the temp is below 20F. On start up the thick stuff can't get through the paper and pushes open the relief valve for a couple of passes till it thins enough. What is the difference? Bypassing the filter is just that, it doesn't mean emptying the filter's contents into the oil. Personally, I would be more concerned about having oil that won't flow easily when cold than if it is unfiltered for a few passes. Bottom line, if the bypass is opening either your filter & oil are so dirty you've probably already done damage, or the oil is so thick it won't flow anyway. Either way, the possible engine wear or damage that results is due to the idiot who allowed the condition, not the filter spec.

I usually attend the CW show as well. It is usually in Febuary here in Chicago. By then I'm jonesing for anything motorcycle so I'll pay whatever they ask for entry & parking. The last two years Triumph has opted out of the show.

Tim, First order of business is to clean things up. Thoroughly wash the trans with a rapidly drying solvent like brake parts cleaner. Once it is clean & dry, take the bike for a short ride.(not too far as to make a mess of it) The source of the leak should be evident. Hopefully it is something easy like the cover or shifter seal. good luck