Dan M

Just use it. It is Dot 4 spec. Dot 4 just has a higher boil point. Valvoline is likely moving to one product to service vehicles that require either. It will mix without issue. You will not boil it. Do not use silicone fluid (Dot 5) It will not mix with what is in your system and will jell if some Dot3 or 4 is left in the system. Dry boiling point -------- Wet boiling point DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) - 140 °C (284 °F) DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) - 155 °C (311 °F) DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) - 180 °C (356 °F) DOT 5.1 270 °C(518 °F) - 190 °C (374 °F)

I always look for a net charge as well but a noticable voltage change or fluctuation is an indication that something is on the horizon.

It'll be fine! That's my favorite riding weather as well.

It was indeed tested. Side by side with an air temp sensor. Findings were posted in the last thread inbetween the bickering. The brass unit is as much as two minutes behind the exposed thermistor sensor. Anyway, this has all been talked about before. Probably time to put it to bed. I'm glad all those who have done it have had good results.

What Docc did was cut the brass away that was insulating the thermistor. That did not change the value, it just removed the lag time to read the actual temp. A lag time that was as long as minutes. How many people have used PCs, Tune boys or other means to correct fueling and while at it were compensating for inaccuracies of a very, very slow sensor?

Very true. The argument from the beginning is no resistance values have been changed. Sure, if you added resistance or installed a sensor with greater resistance values you would be enrichening the mix or cheating as you say. That has not been done here so how is it cheating the ECU? Docc is using the factory sensor with the brass removed for faster response and the bike runs better. This is cheating? This is nonsense?

Thanks for posting your results Docc. I did quite a bit of work with RH picking & modifying GM sensors that ranged the same as the MG sensor as well as side by side testing. My bike is also much smoother in the former trouble range (3000-3500RPM small throttle opening with a hot motor) regardless of ambient temp. Tank range has increased as well. It is a shame people insisted on arguing about it at the time without trying the mod or testing anything themselves.

"PORBETTI"

Give everything a good cleaning with solvent Mike, including the external linkage. Mine had quite a bit of paste in there at pretty low mileage. A clean up and Redline made it shift very well. Take it apart in neutral and note the position of the mechanism in the cover. When you clean it, work it by hand and you can see if everything is moving (and returning) completely. If the shift mechanism is hanging up when it should be returning to the center position, it won't be ready for the next gear change. Be sure to return everything to the neutral position before putting the cover back on.

That may peg it a little better

If you are still looking for a long distance bike the Adventure is probably a better choice for comfort and weather protection.

Banning, another word for virtual murder. hmmm

Be careful starting down this path at your age Andy, it may not be very pretty. Here's what happend to me.

When stock, the cap was flush with the top of the handle bar clamp. I moved it up form there. (measurement is of the fork tube and cap exposed above the handle bar clamp) Right now they are slightly less than 10mm. I'm thinking the LeMans fork tubes are longer than the Sport to accommodate the handle bars. No?

I was at about 14mm on my long frame after suspension set up and it was great all around with the stock 180/55 rear tire. When I switched to the taller 170/60 it lost it's "riding on rails" feel in the high speed sweepers. I raised the front to about 10mm and it's still quicker turn in than before but regained the stability.

AN ITALIAN CORPORATION > You have two cows, but you don't know where they are. You decide to have > lunch. I nearly spit my coffee out when I got to this one.

Very cool bike. Excellent choices on all components.

They don't wear much. Most injector trouble comes from deposits causing a poor spray pattern and poor atomization. Occasionally, deposits will cause the pintle to stick and it won't open at all. Cleaning usually fixes either of these issues. The least seen failure is the coil opening or shorting. I agree with the others that pressure is not your issue. The system is constant pressure & constant volume. It has to have sufficient pressure to atomize the fuel at the injector nozzle and enough volume for wide open full throttle operation. The pressure in the line does not change.

Hey Roy, On the issue of the regulator, it's use in a typical system is to bump fuel pressure when vacuum is removed. So when the throttle is opened fuel pressure gets a bump of between 5&10PSI. It acts as sort of an accelerator pump and provides full pressure for open throttle. Conversely, in high vacuum situations, closed throttle or small steady throttle openings, less fuel pressure is used. It is not variable as some have suggested. It switches from high to low when vacuum (approx 10"Hg) overcomes the internal spring. It is a great system but it only works with multi-cylinder engines that share a intake manifold as it needs to have relatively smooth vacuum. The trouble with the Guzzi is the big twin makes pulsing vacuum. If you hook a vacuum gauge to it, even if you tee in both cylinders it pulses wildly. This will cause the diaphragm inside the regulator to flutter and not operate as designed. If you apply steady vacuum via a pump, the pressure drops as does idle CO. We talked about this at great length quite a while ago and theorized this issue was discovered and the fix by Guzzi was to leave it disconnected and run at a fixed pressure. Your PC3 alters the factory map. Did you get the software with it? You start can with a "zero" map and add or subtract. There are off the shelf maps that you can load that have been done to bikes with various mods. Find one close to your bike then tweak from there. edit: oops, just read emry's post. What he said in other words.

Interesting link docc, thanks. I hadn't seen it previously. The 2002 has a finer range of damping adjustment Marz fork than the original Sport. I believe that change started in 2002. I don't know if there were subsequent changes. While apart I was able to feel damping change without springs throughout the stroke.

You're right, the green is not for that bike. That under seat exhaust looks good but I'll bet it would bake your thighs in the summer. So you're going to keep us guessing on color. The titanium colored wheels and pork chops look good and are a clue. Hmm, they would go with a quite a few combinations. Maybe he's leaning toward the original black/gold idea.

Great story Henry and great place to ride. I have a friends who have a place in Galena. I haven't been out there in years but need to make a plan. Your story may give be the kick I need. Thanks for sharing. I have a quickie. About 5 years ago I was in Italy. We had stopped in one of the typical Tuscan hill towns for a break. A tour bus pulls up and it's white haired passengers start to file off. One older fella breaks from the line and walks over to admire the bikes not realizing we are Americans like himself. As he passes me I ask: Wadda ya think? He looks at me wide eyed, "You're American?" Yep. "You're riding these?" Yep. "How did you get them here?" They're rentals. He paused for a minute shook his head and said "I'm stuck on a f*cking bus" and turned and walked off. As we left I saw him on a side walk watching us. I gave him a wave and he tipped his hat. Kept me smiling the rest of the day.

If you're thinking about a cruiser look for a Valkyrie. Maybe the best riding position of any cruiser. Not as much leg room as a dual-sport like a GS but still has your feet under you rather than out front. Surprising handling for a heavy weight and a great motor.

Depends on the hand. If you go through the manhole you can not get a good grip on the filter so you can not tighten it enough. There have been reports of filters loosening. Since it is internal you don't get the heads up that it is loose (a leak) so over time it can back off and you loose oil pressure. The issue is if it was tight enough to begin with. If you take the sump off, oil the gasket and tighten it a whole turn (or as tight as you can get it) by hand after the gasket makes full contact it will be plenty tight and it is very unlikely it will loosen on it's own. If you want insurance add a hose clamp. I have never had one come loose that I have put on by hand so I choose to be reckless and leave a clamp off.