Dan M

On Rossopuro's site today the price for the set is 1900 Euros. ($2500US) I wrote and asked about weight, rear wheel width and a price to the US including shipping & excluding VAT. Will wait and see...

Weight is as important as looks to me as well. Have the OZ rims been durable? Any experience with other brands for the V11?

Okie, I wouldn't answer that if I were you. Putting such information in writing is asking for trouble.

So... is anyone in the states considering these??? The price is making me explore other alternatives, but I'm still on the fence. We may get break if several sets are ordered at once. I'm writing rossopuro to inquire about the weight of these beauties.

What is your electircal problem? There is a solenoid on the starter.

I'm with you, I thought this was a tech forum, not an English language clinic.

Thanks Dave, For awhile there I was transported back to catholic grade school, knuckles sore from the nun's ruler. I guess I really wasn't paying attention in Sister Ratchet's class. (she was anal retentive too)

What a great technical forum. Not only do you get technical information (albeit sometimes from the uninformed) but an English lessen thrown in.

Smart Ass. My Oxford American Dictionary defines dampen: v 1 to decrease in activity or vigor. 2 to become or to make damp. Gee, seems to have two meanings. I believe increasing the DAMPENING adjustment in my fork will decrease activity. I will concede though that the Marz manual calls the inner rod the damping rod. What you don't know about me is that occasionally I stutter especially on words like dampenininingg

It would be quite nice, and thoughtful of the engineers if the threaded rod was threaded further down by maybe 30mm and there were two nuts; one to lock the cap and one below it to adjust preload. Now that may be is a modification worth considering.

Ouiji, I had time to screw around with this tonight. If your forks are still apart, try this: On the right leg (the rebound adjustment) with the spring out, pull up on the threaded rod with two fingers and feel the resistance and watch the inner rod float up.. Then pull up and hold the inner rod in as you are pulling and feel the increased dampening. When you hold the inner rod in and close off the oil passages the dampening action is increased. Ratch, the 22mm setting on the jam nut insures that the cap is not bottomed out against the threaded rod. On my fork there is not quite 24mm of room before the cap bottoms out. The adjuster in the cap on the '02 model has 20 clicks of travel when the cap is off. There is about .2mm of travel for each click. When the cap is set against the jam nut at 22mm there is only 19 clicks of adjustment. If I were to bottom the cap there would be a fewer clicks due to bottoming the rod against the valve. If less than 22mm was used, the whole 20 clicks would be available but I doubt the first few clicks from the top would make a perceivable change. (too much gap) Make sense? Also, As Ouiji indicated, Poirot's mug with that slick moustache would be a nice change from Marty

The fluid movement "floats" the rod and the BAS limits the amount of float. I'm assuming the other end of the rod acts on a valve to limit the opening of the valve as suggested above. STOP PRESS Marzocci has downloadable manuals on their site. Sadly our now antique 40mm units are not listed but a current 43USD is. Hopefully this will give us some insight. http://www.marzocchi.com/template/listSPAM...p;Sito=usa-moto Edit: This is clearly a different fork with different adjustments and more studying is needed but if you look at the cutaway view on page 27 of the manual, it appears that the rod acts on a valve as thought. (For rebound only in the 43mm.)

Reset mechanism? Some spring loaded, sprag actuated, over-center triggered switching device? I'd like to see that unit. Frankly, I don't think it's that complicated. I believe the reason for backing out the adjuster before disassembly is avoid damage on reassembly. If the adjuster is cranked all the way in and the cap is screwed on past it's old position you'd likely damage internal components of the dampening valve. I think the key here is the stated 22mm position for the jam nut. This IMHO positions the cap just short of bottomed out and places the rod in the right position for a range of adjustability. The adjuster screw merely limits the floatong travel of the internal rod. (counterclockwise raises the adjuster or stop to allow the most travel (biggest orifice size) and the least dampening. Screwing the adjuster clockwise lowers the stop to limit the travel (make a smaller orifice) and increase dampening. My forks just happen to be off of my bike right now but I may not have time to play until the weekend. I will investigate further.....

Just to add - The M4s sound really nice at all RPMS, very deep with stock crossover. A little louder and less deep with a FBF crossover. Fit & finish are top shelf.

Well now! You are making me think hard and I may smell smoke. I think that repositioning the jam nut will change preload, will have an adverse effect on dampening adjustment, and will change ride height. The adjuster in the cap limits the travel of the narrow damping rod that resides inside the main (threaded) rod. The difference between clicks is quite small so changing the position of the cap in relation of the threaded rod will change the range of adjustment greatly, or negate it altogether. The next time you have yours apart, stroke the rod (not that rod!!) and hold the damper down with your finger. You can feel how much dampening is affected. Likewise with the rebound on the right leg. I'm assuming that rod acts on a valve and the more room it has to travel, the less dampening action because it allows more fluid to flow. Cutting spacers is the only right way (from my limited observations) I have to take a break now the smoke from my ears is starting to block my vision.

My exact point at the time. Todd @ Guzzitech assured me they were right for my girth. These springs had less unladen sag then the wimpy stockers but I thought I was needing to add an excessive amount to get both sag measurements in the ball park. I ended up shrugging and moving forward thinking that since they were progressive more than usual spacer would be needed to make a change. Likewise when I bought my wilbers shock from him and everything was to be dialed in for my weight, I needed to crank up the preload 6-7 full turns to get sags where I wanted them. Don't get me wrong, this set up front & rear works great and is a tremendous improvement over the factory stuff. I just think the matching is not exact. Ouij - Compressing the spring to get the jam nut started is a bit of a wrestle but not too much trouble by hand.

Just for the record, bought my M4 carbons from Tod H among some other stuff. Great service.

His bike is the same as mine, forks should be 40mm. I'm wondering how much preload he'll have to add. I needed to add 22mm with the Wilbers progressive. (I'm 180lbs + gear) About that 22mm jam nut location. Maybe I'm missing something here but if you alter that measurement to change preload that way, aint ya changing the rod to screw distance for the adjuster on the fork cap???

Yes Dave this is true. Looking at the K81 Dunlops on my Commando, (same tire fitted front and rear) the tread design is not directional but the tires are, pending location, so in this instance it is only about carcass strength. I was referring to the tread design on modern tires where the tread is directional to channel water away. Certainly there are many other issues in carcass and tread design and we are oversimplifying here.

I love the look of these and have been anticipating their availability but damn, they just keep going up. At first they were projected around 1700 euros then 2400 dollars now 2200 euros. I wonder what the delivered price will be. I sure hope they are lighter. I wouldn't make the move for even weight. The brembos are heavy. Last year I changed tires on my V11, my RT and a friend's Suzuki all in the same week. While I didn't put anything on a scale the Brembos were noticeably heavier. If the Alpinas weigh the same I'll opt for something else.

yea, I'm of the age where hearing preservation is important to me. Rock concerts & the dragstrip have have played a roll. It is true though that tappets & wives do sound better with some hearing damage. This makes me fondly recall the few days several years ago when the missus suffered from laryngitis. Ahhh the memories.....

Thanks, that is exactly the info I need before I started carving things up. Is your air box completly stock at this point? Intact lid & nozzles?

Low fuel pressure will cause the symptoms you describe, hard start, power loss, lean backfire on throttle opening in air box. I doubt you would get a misfire though. Please let us know the outcome.