Dan M

Anytime drive-shaft yokes are out of phase a pretty substantial vibration will occur. I've seen it many times on trucks with two piece drive-shafts. If someone puts it together wrong it will vibrate enough to be felt through out the vehicle. I have to think the related bearings (transmission and rear end) are taking a beating.

PJ is a good supplier http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=264&products_id=84

Pretty cool foto. Those kids have heart.

Sorry to hear. I loved his irreverence.

Outside chance here but worth checking especially if it seems excessively rich when cold. Check the resistance of your temp sensor when cold. There could be an open that occurs at cooler temps causing the ecu to dump excessive fuel. Once you warm past the problem area things return to normal.

I wouldn't worry too much.

I use redline heavy in both. Shifting is improved over OE fluid. Any auto/industrial multi-purpose grease is fine for the joints.

Unplug it and look inside the connector. I've seen this type of sensor leak interanally on cars and saturate the connector with oil creaping into the wires. In fact, the cam sensor on my Aprilia did just that. Careful of leaving it too long if that is happening. There is a narrow range of air gap with such sensors to trigger properly but comparing the length from the mounting surface to the end on the old to the new should have you in the ball park. I'd guess the variations are more from bike to bike than from sensor to sensor so the original set up should be close enough.

Going from a 180 to a 170 worked well for me. The rim is too wide for a 160. I don't think you will ever loose the bead but the shape of the tire will be spread too much. You'll run to the edge earlier.

A good clean up always works for me

Have you weighed anything?

Housing is steel. So, core your muffler and install a heavier muffler inside it.

Hey Mick, Perhaps it is a difference on US models. That is where the nipples are on my bike. Sorry for the misinformation.

See what I mean. Didn't even take long for this "last one" to surface. Henry, do us a favor, before you put it on Ebay, please wash it. Joking aside, Skeeve's suggestion for something other than a pull over or tee is valid. mcnyc, All money related posts are just jokes. I believe if you are going to the trouble you deserve a profit. I don't think owners of Italian bikes are particularly cheap. Most are willing to pay a fair price for a good product. (of course that doesn't explain why we ride V11s though...)

Prior post edited for clarification

Grazie

Another attempt to drive the price up. I'm on to you.

The V11 has nipples to slip the hoses over. No adapters required. IIR the twinmax comes with sleeves for smaller nipples but I'm not sure if the MG needs them.

Just wait. Soon, small quantities of "old logo" merchandise will surface in limited numbers at an inflated price for the collectors among us. "the last of an era" "when these are gone there will be no more" Actually, Ratchet would be all for this type of capitalism. Oh, and put me down for a large short sleeve black

Quick hijack. Bob, Those mirrors, Rizoma Dynamic? How is the view? I'm considering them for my Aprilia but am worried about the small size. Thanks, back to idle adjustment now.

That is a pretty cavalier statement suggesting just turning screws willy-nilly. I'm always sure to have a notebook, photographer, and notary public present to notate, document and notarize any adjustments. Can't be too careful

My M4s sound fantastic. Before you start hacking, put on a crossover. Much less money than mufflers and it will incease sound some.

If it is intermittent you most likely have a loose/dirty connection or dirty contact in a switch. When it is not acting up you will not find it but it would be prudent to go through the circuit and clean / tighten connections. If it does happen again and you can hear the relay clicking, begin checking at the starter looking for voltage with the button pushed and go backwards (using Doc's chart) until you find the culprit.

The term I see used most often for describing the timing of events in relationship to crankshaft rotation is "phasing".

I man I know used to own a company who's logo colors were orange and blue. In the 70's he ordered an Avanti (this is a limited production car based on the old Studebaker and was quite a piece of shit) in the company colors. Orange on the outside, blue seats and door panels with orange carpet. Quite likely the ugliest car I've ever seen. We still service it on occasion and it always draws disparaging remarks from passers by.