Dan M

This is interesting. Warmer temp should mean leaner mixture. The idea is to enrich it for a cold start (and cold running). Usually (on most FI systems) fuel would only be added when hot if the engine were overheating to lower combustion temp. I can't imagine the brass would make so much difference to fool the ECM into adjusting for excessive heat. I don't even know if this system is that sophisticated.

I changed to a Wilbers unit. Made to spec. Coudn't be happier with it.

That's a great analogy, I'll be using it. Thank you. A friend of mine referred to his Ducati as a scalpel. I told him if that were the case then my MG was a cleaver.

I think if it was a factory defect it would have surfaced sooner. Typically it would have been a gradual increase in noise. An instant failure is almost always oil starvation. Perhaps something got in and blocked the passage in the crank or maybe the filter came loose, though this would turn the light on (if it works).

Gil, The shifting gets better with mileage. How many miles do you have? A clean out of the box and change to Redline lubricant also help greatly, as does cleaning & lubing of the shift linkage. There are some other modifiactions that improve things even more if you're motivated. Dan

Hey Eric, Welcome to the board BTW. Not Moto Guzzi but some cool stuff here: www.motorheadart.com

Gerg, Do you know of any value chart for this sensor? (various temperatures & corresponding ohms) It would be nice to be able to check accuracy. Dan

If the spring breaks it will not shift at all and the shifting will not come back. Also, the spring is either broken or not, it is not a slow failure. I would change the lubricant if you haven't recently. Metal paste that accumulates in the gear lube causes the shift pawl do drag and causes bad shift action. It is best to take the side cover off and clean out the gunk when changing fluid. Many here (including myself) have had excellent results with Redline Shockproof Heavy in the transmissions. Don't know if it is available to you there.

Hey Bill, I did it the other way around, mufflers first then x-over (MAP carbon mufflers & FBF x-over) Like Ratchet, I have no dyno paper to back it up, but in IMHO the x-over gave me more improvement than the mufflers, especially in the mid rpm range. I feel like the mufflers added some power but extra noise will give that feeling. Of course this is all subjective without the coveted dyno. Lastly I installed the PCIII and used an off the shelf map also from Todd which brought everything together and my bike now runs seamlessly. I've thought of installing the stock cans just to see what they would sound & feel like with the other mods but so far I've been too lazy. Also like Ratchet's bike I occasionally would have a idle stumble and felt (smelled actually) it was very rich at idle. A couple of weeks ago I brought it into work and synched the t-bodys and checked it with the gas analyzer. It was indeed running extremely rich at idle with the mixture screws out about one turn each. After adjusting the mix and re balancing I have not had any idle issues. I'd be interested in your results with the x-over only. Dan

Nothing since the follow up on the other thread. Paolo says that Alipna is concentrating on the major brands so availability for Moto Guzzi is on the back burner.(go figure) He says he'll update the web site as soon as he has info. So for now we have to wait or choose another brand. Personally, I really like the spokes and hope the weight savings is considerable. I have no problem riding on the stockers until they are available.

I received an E-mail from Paolo this morning. No availability yet as Alpina is concentrating on the major brands before Moto Guzzi. He'll update the web site as soon as he has more info. I guess we have to be patient.

Mike, There is no difference in how they operate other than lever length & linkage angles. All of the detents are inside the transmission. When mine was installed at 7 o'clock the downshift effort was noticably higher than stock. In that position you are "over center" and have to pull the lever back toward the 90 degree point on the down shift, hence the increased effort. I think that is all you are feeling. Once installed close to 90 degrees at both ends as Greg suggests, the shift effort is much reduced as is the throw both up & down. It is just like stock only with reduced throw and none of the slop. Dan

I'd like to know the weight savings as well. Let's follow up on availability with Paolo. (I don't think they've been produced yet) Let him set the price then we'll see how many sales we can give him at once and see if he'll do anything for us.

I've got the Diablo Stradas on my LeMans. Huge improvement over the stock Bridgestones. That is the only thing I can compare them to on a V11. I have the Z6's on my RT and like them better than the original Z4s, but these bikes have such different handling characteristics that it is tough to compare tires. Both warm up quickly and offer great wet & dry traction.

Mike, Follow Greg's advice. When the arm at the transmission end of the linkage is positioned at 7 o'clock as the directions say, the up shift action is OK albeit a little long but down shifting while a shorter throw is a little firm. 90 degrees at both ends would mean both arms are near 6 o'clock, and both throws would be even. I can't get mine to 6 o'clock exactly because it will hit the porkchop on the down shift. Just position it a spline or two forward of the 6 position and adjust the rod length for optimum height and as close to 90 degrees as possible. On my bike that means the adjustable rod is just about 4" eye to eye. Shift into gear by hand and watch for clearance at the porkchop. The shift action is very, very good. Dan

Jaap likes them, I like them, You like them. Do I smell a volume discount? Who else wants a set?

Received my set today. Quick service from Greg Field & reasonable shipping. The machine work is nice. I'm anxious to install & adjust although I may polish the stuff before installation. Been playing with them this afternoon at work but can't really get the angles right on my desk chair.

So true. I've been looking for an alternative too. Rossopuro says that the Alpina tubeless spoke will be available for us soon. Waiting for prices and availability now. http://rmcube.abd.it/RMcube/servlet/contro...codelanguage=IT edit: here's a US supplier of PVM with specs. Of course the MG wheels are usually the most expensive. http://www.ema-usa.com/wheels/wheels_PVM.shtml

nice job

Alright then, what about the woman in your avatar? Is she for rent?

No problem at all. I have a Garmin 2610 on my other bike and have it run to battery power so I can have it on with the key off, but the draw is so low (about .75 amp if I recall) you can attach it to almost any circuit without worry. Related tip: Garmin stock is an excellent performer.

It's all relative. Variables are the bike, the wife, & the wifes experiences. Bearing long term emotional scars from a very long day on the back of the Commando, I can't convince her to even try the V11. It's the RT or nothing.

Got a reply from rossopuro today so in this instance 5 days.

Hey Greg, How much pressure do you consider "dangerously low"? Even with hot, thin oil and hot engine components that are expanded providing larger clearances, doesn't your pressure rise to "acceptable" levels off of idle? I think the engineers have taken all of this into consideration when recommending which viscosity to use. For years I'd shudder at the thought of too thin oil and low pressure and still opt for heaver vis in an air cooled motor. But engineers in their constant quest for fuel econony and reduced emissions are calling for thinner & thinner oils. My car as an example uses 5W20 year around. I have seen some cars call for 0W50!! Surely modern engines have tighter clearances and can make adequate pressures with this watery stuff but I think our guzzi engines are completely safe with 20W50 at 120c. I'll stop rambling now. BTW, I'll try your french press coffee trick. Sounds good.

True to a degree, but that is with a closed loop system that is a little more sophisticated than what our beloved tractor motors have. Higher engine temperatures allow for a leaner mixture reducing carbon monoxide. The down side is the high combustion temperatures from a lean mixture creates more oxides of nitrogen. Not to mention other drivability issues. It is a delicate balance that requires precise fuel control.