Dan M

In Illinois we use grams per mile. Before current type of testing it was parts per million for HC and percent for CO. AFAIK, any state that uses IM240 testing measures in grams per mile. It is all moot though since bikes are not tested. At least not here. When onboard emission diagnostics makes its way to motorcycles (and it will) there will be very little room for modifications. More reason to keep your old bikes. Sorry nerdyness RH, back to Griso vs V11 now.

EPA measures pollutants by weight. Hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and oxides of nitrogen are the offenders Grams per mile is the standard of measurement.

I don't think it's likely a bearing would creak but rear brake pads are often noisy. Especially when dirty.

Like Jaap said the M620 is pretty low on power, and depending how tall & old you are, Monsters are a pretty tight fit too. The duck is lighter & more nimble, The goose, well, is a goose, one of a kind character. What Bob said though, ride one fist. I had wanted one for years and my first ride on one was a V11 with titanium cans. The sound alone cemented the deal for me.

I've had the Amals on the Commando sleeved, made all the difference, envy of my brit bike mates. I refuse to go with a Mikuni. Don't know if anyone sleeves monos though, seems like they'd be doable. My Atlas is nearly a basket case and a project just started (about 4 years now ) The Commando is a regular rider and the T120 is nearly complete, just sorting electrics & cables. So little time...

Couple of real beauties there Bob

Yea it's called progress... I deal with the technology in today's cars on a daily basis and while it is mostly driven by emission standards and occupant safety (read EPA & insurance companies) advancement in all areas of performance are being realized. But you are right, the cost is gadgets and complications. There is certianly room for improvement in the current unit with better fuel and spark control, and a better head design, but if we want the next level of performance, liquid cooling is part of the picture. I think it's pretty hard to ring out much more than 100HP/liter and keep it reliable on an air cooled twin. I'm not saying I want a radiator on my goose, I love the simplicity of air cooling. The sad part is, future emission regulations will likely be the end of air cooled vehicles unless new materials, lubricants & fuels can close the gap. For now maybe part of the answer is to just make the damn things lighter.

Absolutely. Like Martin, I too had a FJ1200. At that time stock was not enough and with a little work it was blistering fast (for me) So much so that I knew I would either get in trouble or get dead. I couldn't even ride to work without triple digit speeds. After a couple of four cylinder bikes and a Valkyrie, I have gravitated (back) toward the power characteristics of a twin. All of my current bikes are twins and the MG is easily the fastest. I don't need 150 horsepower on a 400 pound bike. Like I said before If that is what I needed it is there to be had with different brands. I ride different bikes with different expectations, If my "sporting" mount is going to tip the scales in the 500 lb range, a torquey 100 hp motor is plenty. As I near the half century mark I'd imagine my horsepower needs will decrease not increase, regardless of what is offered. Certianly you wanted more out of your V11 or you would not have modified it. Right?

I agree. Many look at peak horsepower alone which is silly, not to mention manufacturer's claims are usually exaggerated. I think most of us Guzzi types don't chase peak power charts or 1/4 mile times. If that were the case we'd all be on a different brand. Seems though, if MG wants to market an aggressively styled bike, It would at least have a little more zip than what it is replacing. Like dlaing said 100hp would be in the ball park. 100hp with a strong, flat torque curve would suit me just fine

One wonders what the powers that be at Moto Guzzi are thinking. I'd imagine they'd snag more sales if their bikes were getting more powerful not less.

LeMans is a circuit in France where they run the 24 hour endurance race. This year is it's 74th running on June 17&18th It is often said the reason the original Moto Guzzi LeMans seat was so uncomfortable was to keep the riders awake during the race

I believe the X style replaces the H style from FBF. I just bought one and only the X shape was offered. I hope to have time to install it this weekend. If I do I'll report seat of the pants impressions.

Yes, that is where I bought my spring. It is not any stronger than the orignial but the bend was different causing it to be wound tighter when in use. Also, I measured the inside diameter and it was not any bigger than the stock one so I don't think it will solve the short life problem by simply replacing one. I did file down the boss that it rides on to about 15.4mm and reshaped the spring for a more "relaxed fit". (kind of like the jeans I need to buy at my current age & girth) I don't feel any binding (unlike my waistline) at the end of it's travel so I believe the problem is solved. I took some photos before I reassembled to help explain and I'll post them soon.

Sorry bad info. I looked at my signals, the bulbs are lower wattage and smaller size than the 1156. I believe they are #6006 Same base & socket but smaller, cooler bulb. I have not seen amber in this size but I'll see if they are out there.

The bulbs should be typical single filament #1156, (1156NA for amber). Less than a buck at any auto parts store. I'll check mine tonight to verify the number. Automotive bulbs do not resist vibration as well as cycle specific bulbs. So the trade off is long life or low price.

Can't right now, I'll be out of town tomorrow thorugh Sunday. I'll try to snap some shots before I put it together and post later.

Thanks for the replys. After reshaping the ratchet spring for far less tension the action is perfect. I loosensd the eccentric and played with it watching the position of the ratchet against the selector rollers. You can get a good feel for the position in the middle gears, I found that if you position the ratchet very slightly "low" (maybe 1/64 or less") giving you more play on the upshift side of center the return action in both directions is more positive. Also while I had it apart I polished the "ramps" on the ratchet arm where they slide on the selector rollers. When operating by hand it feels much more smooth, almost, dare I say it, Japanese

I ordered a shift pawl spring from Bonnie with the idea I'd catch it before it breaks. Changed it today, very straightforward job. After it was all together shifting the bike by hand with the engine off it felt like the shifter wasn't returning on the up shift with the same spring pressure as on the downshift. I took it out for a short ride (25 degrees here today) and I had to wiggle the shifter to let it catch the next gear on the up shift. Downshifts were fine. So with a sigh I took it back apart and found that indeed, when you move the ratchet arm against the selector on the up shift it does not return readily. (wiggling the shifter was helping the spring pull the ratchet arm back to center) I removed the spring and matched it up with the old one and it is not quite the same angle. Only off by a few degrees, but it is causing more pressure on the arm causing it to drag against the selector rollers while returning to the center position. Removing the ratchet arm from the assembly lets the selector shaft spring back to center from either direction with the same force. With the ratchet arm and spring installed there is substantially more return force from the downshift direction My first thought is to reshape this spring for less tension on the ratchet arm. I installed the old spring and the action is similar, not correct in my eyes but not as bad. I have the exploded view from the parts manual, and everything appears to be installed correctly. When the ratchet arm is in the center position it is pretty well centered over the selector rollers so I doubt adjusting the eccentric under the acorn nut would help. One more thing, I had some up shift problems last summer that were completely eliminated with the change to Redline shockproof lube. Seeing what is happening here makes me think this arm was dragging on the return to center back then. Any thoughts?

Pity, isn't it? I took a close look at the Breva & Griso at the MC show here a couple of weeks ago. Both a little too stylized for me. The Breva is almost OK until you look at the headlamp. And the Griso only looks good from the right side so you can't see the bazooka sized muffler. (at least that can be easily changed) I'm sure I've offended some, but for me the Sport & Le Mans are still the eye catching Guzzis.

Typical tank bag mount. I just looped the front strap around the frame in front of the tank. In the rear there is a single strap that I have attached to the gas tank mounting bolt.

It is recommended at low mileage just to be sure they are not too loose after the gasket has been compressed, bolts stretched, and the engine has been through many heat / cold cycles. Not usually necessary but easy once you are in to do the valves. Only need to do it once after the head has been installed (either at the factory or after engine work). Loosen & retorque one at a time.

Glad to be of help Mike. It is the perfect size for odds & ends, garage door opener, keys and the like. The slip-not tubes are not necessary, the bike's chin pad holds it firmly in place.

The problem is the boss is too large and the springs binds & eventually breaks. A larger spring is the most simple & cost effective fix.

RKA's smallest bag is very compact and low profile. Expands if needed. Nice quality. http://www.rka-luggage.com/pages/08tnkbag/...ow/ssminix.html

The BMW kit is nice. Typical radial insert type plugs. We've been using that type of tire plug on cars for over 20 years. Trouble free unless the puncture is too big, in which case it is likely no roadside repair will work. I like to carry extra co2 cartridges though, it makes it much easier to insert the plug when the tire has some pressure in it.