John A

Looking for a pair of injected sport heads with manifolds john

Maybe you should put the Sport pistons in your California along with the larger valved heads? Just a thought, Mike Mike I see the wisdom of your suggestion so I'm looking for a set of injected Sport heads and manifolds and would only use Mike Riches pistons, I think they are a much better product than the FBF's. After I find a set of heads, I'll send them to Mike Rich for a stage one port and dual plugging. I spose I better give him a call to see if some year heads are more desireable than others. So if anybody has a lead on some heads, please let me know, John

I like the heads I have on this one, dual plugged and ported with Sport throttle bodies, Mike said he got almost as good of flow numbers as the race bike. I also have a Megacycle cam, the old Norris SS grind. So it runs well. Doug Lofgren made the ECU map using FIM Ultimap software. It will ping on 87 octane if thats all I can find on the road and it is hot if I'm not careful.We took a group of timing out around 4K rpm.NO ping ever with 92 octane. Since I drag a sidecar, I need some more power to eliminate the inconvenience of having to downshift to 4th about 90mph when pulling a long hill on the interstate. I already have 7/33 gears and a ten spring clutch.I think the added compression is just what it needs and at 140K miles I would like a fresh set of pistons.I like the idea of SportI heads but I don't have any and wouldn't want to loose air velocity with the bigger valves especially after Mike's work has made these flow so well. The extra set of pistons is for my friend who has mostly LeMans&Sports and wants his Cal to run better. Cheers, John

I have a standing order with Mike for two sets for a Cal series engine when they get made. Last year I tried to generate some interest on WildGuzzi but no luck. So maybe there are a few here that are interested? John

Any filter that you put on, foam or gauze should be at least 2.5 tmes the diameter in length. In other words you dont want the end cap of the filter too close to the opening it atatches to or it interfers with the pulses of air. 2.5 is the theroretical minimum, I have gone less with no noticable effects. Where it really makes a difference is foam caps over velocity stacks. She wont run at wide open throttle that way.

What I would do is put the probe leads on it and see what it reads at wide open throttle. it Should be al least 80% of the reference voltage which is 5 volts.anyway it is easy to tweak when you use the wide open position rather than the fully closed because the fully closed position with the stop screw backed out is not a positive stop and you cannot get repatability on your tweaks like you can if you use the wide open stop.Its a more precicse way to adjust if you are adjusting for driveability issues and already have the base setting. and .001 volt makes a noticable difference, at least with my tuneup. Tweak it and see what it does, most of the time I don't have to alter the other settings, except maybe idle speed, Luck, John

Doug Lofgren,master tuner, told me that BMW's went through the same scenario when fitted with aluminum timing gears. Some lived, most filled the sludge tube with aluminum, although I have no personal knowledge of those, I thought it was interesting.

My TPS started acting up after 90K miles so tonight I put in a new Harley TPS. I set TPS at wide open throttle and dont much care what it is at idle.I could only get 4.77 volts at WOT. For this particular bike it likes 4.84 at WOT. If I left the screws out of the Harley TPS it would go up to 4.93 but the slots wouldn't line up with the screw holes. So I put in my spare Guzzi TPS and set it to 4.84 at WOT. No troubles works great again,Just thought I'd let you all know.

Yea, I just popped the one link off. 485mv sounds about right but it's worth playing with as each engine seems a little different as an assembly.

I find it easier when setting the TPS for experimental tuning to do it at wide open throttle.The reading is always the same when you hit the stop.When you use the idle stop it floats around some depending how hard you push on it.Easier repeatability on the wide open stop. Theoretically the TPS should read at least 80% of the reference voltage [ 5 volts] at WOT. .01 volts makes a big difference on how it runs.If it's set too much when you ride it you will notice a slight acceleration when you slowly close the throttle.

Skeeve I completly agree and I am also electronically challenged. I get those pesky solder leaks just after the smoke leaves. I've got it in my mind to build a mechanical fuel injection with some Hilborn injectors or similar just because I've never seen it on a Guzzi but someone must have done it.Anybody ever seen one?

I'm guessing 10.9 or better cuz I've never had the head twist off even as hard as they are to get out.

Metric stainless have a different marking system than the ferrus.There are property classes 50,70 and 80 with corresponding grades of A1, A2 and A4, roughly equivelent to SAE grades 2, 5 and 8.There are others but that's the gist of it.The heads will be marked with the manufacturer and the grade.I use A4 when I replace disc bolts and I always do for the factory bolts are one time use.If you get new ones from the dealer they come with a locking adhesive already applied.Blue 242 medium strength loctite is sufficient. The anti tamper paint that is found on fuel system adjustment areas is Torque Seal and comes in different colors.I like to put it on just to screw with peoples heads.

JRT what I like to do for a power source is add 2 or 3 automatic reset circuit breakers as close to the battery as possible and run a super well insulated feed wire from the battery + to them.Then you have power for about anthing you want to run.Of course the real deal would be to have a feeder CB bolted right on the battery + but I havn't found a small enough one yet.