callison

It would easier, maybe even cheaper, to buy a Norge with ABS and change the bodywork. Seriously.

I don't think Team Cooked Goose exists anymore so there probably isn't any rivalry.

I wonder if it's possible to detach everything, repair the metal part, and rotate the damaged CF down around out of sight and relocate the hangar bracket. Just a thought.

Gag. That was so bad dude, that I used AdBlock in FireFox to block those images.

My son will be inheriting my V11 Sport this year. He is not interested in continuing this project and certainly not interested in moving to clip-ons that would be even lower than the stock ones. As a result, I have for sale, a modified early Daytona fairing, mount, headlight, dash panel, fairing stay and a very rare set of aftermarket lowers for this fairing (see picture). The lowers alone set me back $552 and about the same amount has gone into acquiring the other parts. Make no mistake, this is a project, it is not a bolt-on and hit the street kind of deal. I'll part with everything I have for $600 + shipping. If you're interested and want further details, email or PM me. I'm not enthusiastic about shipping overseas so let's please limit inquiries to those within the USA for the time being.

I have a used spare from a Sport 1100i or V11 Sport or something out in my shed. If you're interested, PM me and we'll haggle about it.

I have a stock used steering damper from either a Sport 1100i or V11 Sport (don't remember which, but I think it's the WP unit. Somewhere, out in the shed...). PM me if you're interested and we'll haggle about it.

I'd check the crankcase to spine breather hose first. They rot, then they leak. Since it's up underneath the tank it's easy to overlook. You may have to pull the tank to check it. Somewhere here, there is a thread (or two) on aftermarket replacement parts that can be made to fit rather than relying upon MGNA to actually have something in stock for an outrageous price.

I bought a fender from DAS Mototec once. It took Wells Fargo 3 1/2 weeks to figure out where to send the money and the charge was $42. Considering the fender only cost about $79, the price was quite high. I had a similar experience buying a Moto Guzzi watch from Gawa Guzzi. My bank charged a bunch for the funds transfer and the bank in Germany charged another $11 or so for that end. That doesn't even compare to a bank transfer I made to France for some injectors. $42 to send and the guy at the other end payed another $40 to pick up the funds. The banks are vampires. PayPal is downright modest compared to what the banks do. If you can't deal with either Visa or PayPal, you can pretty much consider doing business with Europe as a no-no. At least Reboot Guzzi Spares accepts PayPal and it works quite well for them as well as the customer. I have no fondness for PayPal, but for international bank transfers, their charge of around 3% is extremely reasonable. Even with crappy exchange rates applied, they're still far more economical than a bank transfer.

DAS Mototec Cruise their site. Parts to make MGS01's street legal, billet brake levers for V11 Sports, Griso stuff, etc. Too bad they don't take Visa or Paypal, money orders to Europe are painfully expensive.

There's a guy in New Zealand that has a Sport 1100i with the breather plumbed into a catch tank with oil breather filter. The former oil recovery space in the spine has been converted to additional fuel tank adding about a third of a gallon. On those bikes, that's really a fair percentage of fuel increase over stock. That would probably not be worth the effort for a V11 Sport though since it already has a larger fuel tank.

That's it, it must be a 1000cc Schtump!

Another 10W60 Agip Thread @ MG-Norge/Sport/Stelvio 1200 - Chat 24/7 MG-Norge/Sport/Stelvio 1200 - Technical Data MG-Griso/Breva - Chat 24/7 MG-Griso/Breva - Technical Data MG-Griso.com Modern Guzzi Worldwide Registry

Evan Wilcox Hand Formed Metal Expect to spend between $1500-$2000 with a very long wait. If anyone can do it, Evan can. Check out the curved aluminum pipes. Very sexy! Magni Style Pipes Moto Guzzi V11 sport $1700 polished alloy with glass pack Motoguzzi Lemans V65 special $1400

Slippery stuff. When I switched to BMW's synthetic transmission lube, the drain plug on the rear transmission backed out and departed within 70 miles. I replaced that and then the fill plug likewise took a hike. Now I use teflon tape and safety wire them in place. Synthetic oils lubricity creeps into threads just fine and allows things to loosen up. See! I've given you an out. You didn't make a mistake, the oil did! Still, the damage was done and I feel for you. I hose-clamp the filter on my bikes - sometimes. Now I'll start making sure that I do it all of the time. Except the Norge. If that filter comes loose, I'll have a remarkably slippery rear wheel right before I crash.

While you're into the clutch, get one of Moto Internationals clutch seal upgrade kits. Actually, it's just a set of 5 specially sized o-rings, but they work a lot better than the cone shaped seal that Moto Guzzi uses. Even if you don't go the MI o-ring route you should replace the clutch push-rod seal while you're in there.

Does "elite" apply to a bunch of guys riding around on suede seats?

Well, apparently, we're all standing at the back of a room looking at internet postings while a naked girl is standing by a table up front...

Not so much a gay bar as a Harley bar. The clientelle isn't so much interested in the girl as they are a set of straight through chrome pipes that are on display back by the back wall.

V11 Sport Manual (web based)

You only need to remove the silencers as I recall. Not too big of a job. Why are you removing the swing arm?

Okay, let's try this. The regulator determines its output voltage according to the difference between it's output and it's case. It will always do this, regardless of what kind of ground the case has. There is circuitry internal to the regulator that is always in action doing this, independent of battery state, alternator voltage - anything. That circuit is the one that absolutely needs the case of the regulator or regulator ground if it is running through wiring, to be the real ground of the vehicle. The simple diagram a manufacturer shows you of a product is not going to show you the details that make it work. That would be bad business. If you took a 12 volt battery and placed that in series between the regulator and ground (with correct polarities of course, ground of the regulator to the +12V battery terminal and the - terminal of that battery to the real ground), you would now have a regulator that would think it's putting out 12 volts but with its case ground at +12 volts, it's output would really be +24V. This is pretty much what a class H audio amplifier does, so there isn't anything magical about the theory. In effect, the bad ground of the Sporti type spine frames is the same as that series battery example. The resistance of the fairing sub-frame to the frame of the bike causes the regulator to think it's putting out +12V when in reality its the regulator output plus the voltage drop across the bad connection of the fairing sub-frame to the frame proper. Since the bike is a mechanical piece in motion, the fairing sub-frame mount points exhibit motion (microscopically perhaps, but there nonetheless) and that motion changes the resistance in accordance with the quality of electrical contact. If the continuity is interrupted in it's entirety, the regulator will be really high for a moment until the regulator action can bring it back to normal. In this kind of system, there aren't supposed to be spikes so it's unlikely that the regulator circuitry has a short enough time constant to completely prevent passing that spike to the output. Make it high enough and poof, sensitive electronic circuits start having problems. The battery can level off a voltage surge somewhat, but it's impedance is high enough that it won't do too much for a voltage transient. After all, the battery responds at the rate of a chemical state change (really slow). That's just the spiking effect from motion, if the mount points exhibited a poor connection constantly, then the regulator reference point is shifted likewise and the output (referenced to the sub-frame but perhaps higher than the vehicle ground reference by several or even many volts) can have an output high enough to cause downstream electronics fry. The WM16M ECU has a 17 volt zener diode on it's +12 volt input on its circuit board. In nearly every instance of a failure of these ECU's, it is that zener that has died. That means that the zener has had at least 17 volts applied to it long enough for it to burn. If the voltage was higher than than 17 volts, it just means that the zener has to try an pass that much more current to ground with the result that it burns out faster. A momentary over-voltage that is not unreasonable for a vehicle system will just get regulated by the zener with no harm done to it or the ECU. Sustained over voltage will kill the zener. I don't think the Veglia tachs are even protected to that point. I think the IC chip in the tach is a low power Schottkey though, and they're typically good to 17 or more volts anyway so perhaps the designer of the tach circuitry would assume that the tach would never see more than 12 volts or so and would not bother to add addtional circuit protection. He really shouldn't have to, the regulator system of the vehicle charging circuit is supposed to be doing all of that. Ignition noise can be filtered out at the input of ECU's and tachs and so forth with simple RC networks and inductors. These same circuits won't do a single thing to an over-voltage, so a regulator with a bad reference point really does cause problems downstream. I'm less certain about the thyristor model of the Ducati Electronica regulator because my electronics days are back about 35 years or more and I haven't thought about this stuff at this level for at least as long. Either way though, a bad ground confuses the regulator and the results are not good for the electronics of the bike. That's electronics. Electrical stuff, battery and bulbs and so forth, suffer a whole lot less initially.

I'll guarantee you that the electronics on your bike care what the regulator calls ground.

Forget anything about the regulator for a moment except the case (ground) and the output +12V (which we know is more than 12 volts, but 12 is an easier number to deal with than 14.3 or somesuch). The regulator does exactly two things. It turns the AC from the alternator into DC, and it regulates the DC to a specific voltage. Period. The alternator can kick out as much as 90VAC at redline on a Guzzi so you can see that there is enough input voltage on the regulator that if the regulator has a problem, it has the "oomph" to fry everything downstream. The stated current capacity of the V11 Sport alternator is 25 Amps. That's enough figures to start doing some math, so now we need something to do the math with: Ohm's Law. I = E/R I is current (amps), E is voltage and R is resistance (ohms). Under ideal conditions, the regulator case (ground) is solidly and electrically at vehicle ground - typically the engine/transmission block and hopefully the frame as well. That would be zero ohms resistance. As the regulator does it's job, any voltage beyond the desired output voltage is shunted back to ground as current through the case of the regulator. Since the case has zero ohms resistance to ground, no voltage potential exists between the regulator and vehicle ground. However, if there is a resistance between the case of the regulator and the vehicle ground, a potential will be developed between the case and ground as the current load increases during the voltage regulation process. This is a bad thing. Re-arranging ohms law for I*R=E means that for every amp the regulator passes back to ground through the 1 ohm resistor a voltage drop of 1 volt will occur across the resistor (unless I have all of this horribly messed up). Well, there isn't an actual resistor between the regulator and ground, but on my Sport 1100i, there are four bolts holding the fairing sub-frame to the bike frame and when those points get correded or loose, they do become in effect, resistors. I don't know how much because I don't want any resistance there at all, so remedying that problem is more important than knowing actual values. But I digress. The regulator can handle 25 amps and if 1 amp equals 1 volt, than 25 amps = 25 volts. And your response is, it's only a 12 volt regulator - and right you are! But - that's twelve volts referenced to ground and our ground for this problem (Sport 1100i) is NOT vehicle ground, it's the potential across the resistance of the fairing sub-frame mount points. Remember, the regulator is rectifying as much as 90VAC and it positively has to be able to bleed that extra voltage back to ground to keep it from being passed on to the vehicle electrical systems. Fine, if the ground is really ground, but if there is that 1 ohm resistance between the regulator case and the vehicle (real) ground, then at one amp of regulation, the regulator output is not 12 volts but rather, 13 volts. As the current being shunted to ground at the regulator increases, the output voltage of the regulator will rise with the current because the regulator is not seeing the vehicle ground (engine), but rather, the "false" ground of the fairing sub-frame electrical resistance to the actual frame. I'm not sure, but I think that at under worst conditions - high resistance to ground, full rpm and no load on the regulator, it would have the potential to pass through the highest voltage of the alternator minus the regulated output which would be around 78 volts. More than enough to fry ECU's and everything. Fortunately, it IS loaded and there IS a good ground so the regulator can do it's thing without damaging things downstream. It's just that it's not a perfect world and occasionally, something goes wrong. For the Daytona RS's and Sport 1100i's, it was a bad design decision to mount the regulator where they did and not provide a good ground path for it. I've been harping on the addition of a heavy gauge wire from the regulator case to a point on the engine or transmission for these things ever since I investigated it in 1999. A friend of mine in SoCal burned up several tachs and ECU's that would probably never have experienced a problem if we had known at the time about the grounding path problem for that series of vehicles. That problem really does not exist on any of the other Guzzi models that I'm aware of but if your regulator mounting bolts become loose for any reasons, you can expect to have problems. I hope I don't spot any egregious errors in this and have to edit it as that would mean that I'm not a good instructor (that's probably a given). However...

Okay. The regulator wants to put out 13.2V or whatever referenced to its case. If there is a resistance between the case and the actual ground of the vehicle, as the regulated current rises with rpm, a potential will be developed across the resistance of the ground path. The Daytona RS/Sport 1100i and maybe the Sport 1100 were notorious for this. The regulator on those bikes is mounted on the fairing sub-frame. As the bike gets older, corrosion built up in the mounting bolts and those mounting points were the only real ground provided for the current flow. What happens with this potential is that regardless of what the regulator thinks it's doing, the case has to be at ground to be correct in the system. If there is a 5V potential across the ground connection to the regulator case, the regulator will see that potential and not actual ground. That voltage will be added to the regulators output voltage and if it exceeds 17V or so, the zener on the old WM16M would fry. To add insult to injury, a corroded/loose/painted joint used as a ground path vibrating is rarely a constant resistance, so the joint would cause spiking in the system. For this reason, I've been posting to anyone with one of the aforementioned bikes to ground the regulator case directly to the engine anytime I've heard them mention problems with the electrical system. It's going on 8 years now, we should have run out of unmodified versions of the bikes by now, but apparently, the problem is random enough that not everyone runs afoul of it in the first years of ownership. I'd say it's inevitable if the bike every gets ridden or wet though.