callison

If it's a Harley, it has to have straight pipes, too much chrome etc. That minimalist appearance pretty much precludes putting on something with a nice sound like a Mistral muffler. The HD crowd simply doesn't want anything interrupting the looks - or the volume of their bikes.

This is probably a regulator only and not a rectifier/regulator unit. Straight regulators are pretty much three leads, goesinta, ground, goesouta...

The handling gets bad when it rains and the frame warps. Then the termites get to it.

I'm a lumberjack and I'm okay I play all night And build bikes by day...

One of the Brit bike web sites did a road test of a 1998 MG Sport 1100 Corsa a few years back. At the end of the test they stopped at a small restaurant or pub and went in. Then some lady backed her car over it in the parking lot. Not the best way to end a road test.

FrenchBob, you said it was a "police urinal". It was neither, it's a Ural medical emergency vehicle of some sort. It being a Ural, it might just be the thing to relieve one's self on, but I can't imagine a law enforcement officer doing so It could qualify as a "sorry Ural" though, so the point goes to you.

The big RV dealers in the USA apparently do a lot of plastic tank repair for water, sewage tanks etc. They use a plastic welder on poly. A welded gas tank is probably the last thing I'd want to place between my legs though.

Excerpting this from the Okieguzzi forum on Yahoo: Alternative Voltage Regulator. torpedomanas18 Last night Cathy's 98 EV with the hack went dead, without any warning. This happened once before at a gaggle. This time we were just a few miles from home. It had another (second ) Electrex R51 regulator in it. Prior to buying this one I was assured that they had beefed the new models. I was on the phone with them today and it was 2 months out of the one year warranty ,but they said they would back it any how if I would send it back. In the mean time I got an idea. The Harley has a similar single phase system . A friend owns a custom chopper shop and carries them from Custom Chrome PN25359. He let me take one home on loan. I was able to run the test without modifying it . At 4000 RPM's ,I get 13.88 Vdc. That is with a battery that reads 12.95 VDC at rest prior to starting. It does take a bit of modifying , I had to drill a hole in the mounting plate , Change the ends on the two leads going to the alternator. On thing it does not have , is a lead going to the Batt indicator light. I use meters anyhow. Here is the info off the label For Big twin models from 1976 to 1980. OEM 74510-75A 74512-79A Price he had on the box was $51.99 My suggestion is keep this information on the bike so if you should have a problem on a trip you have a alternative to renting a truck carry your bike home. Russ Marooney

I've never had any trouble running electric grips and a heated vest, a Kisan SM2 in running light mode and even a heated faceshield helmet. Driving lights would very likely exceed the charging capacity though. I suppose that eventually there'll be some hi power LED driving lights on the market which wouldn't draw as much current.

Real simple. I'm going to take the end of the starter that bolts to the bike, lop it off at about an inch or so in length and then weld the starter gear shaft in place so that bolting the unit in place gives you an easy way to prevent the flywheel from turning for maintenance on timing chains, clutches and so forth. The real shame of it? I had all of these parts when I rebuilt a Valeo starter using one from a Saturn car (not going there again, it's weird and messy). Right after I threw out the old starter carcass I got the brainstorm for the flywheel immobilizer. If someone else wants the solenoid part, I surely won't be needing it for this.

Euro MotoElectrics If you replace your starter, could I have your dead one? I have an experiment in mind...

What, you want a point for a Ural??? Points for Urals are uh, pointless. Same value system as "Who's Line Is It Anyway?". You each get a point. But they're pointless...

My 2001 V11 Sport TT got the transmission recall - right after the bike got totalled.

I don't remember where I got the picture, but it did say it was an ambulance. The caption was probably translated incorrectly, I would think that you're more on the mark. I can see it now. A Ural with the lights flashing, slipping through stalled traffic, over the curb and down the sidewalk. An IV bottle suspended above the sidecar. And a nurse. Can't forget that (as long as she's a looker) riding pillion. "It's a bird! It's a plane! It's a, uh, whatinthehell? A Ural hack ambulance?" FWIW, my 2005 Ural Patrol with 800 km on it has only had one thing go wrong and that's with a brake line bracket. Mind you, it runs ratty as hell, but it doesn't seem to break or lose parts. It would seem the quality is up quite a bit.

It's a Ural based ambulance. Weird. That would have to be about the slowest way to get to the hospital...

That's a good point about the battery connections. The starter solenoid is powered by the starting circuit but the starter itself has a lead directly to the battery positive terminal.

This is not a production model guys, but give it your best shot. I don't know any specifics other than who made the engine.

I've done the battery to ECU thing as well and did no damage to the ECU. The ECU case is ground so of course throwing battery voltage on to it makes for a pretty good spark. However, unless you maintain that current to the case long enough to arc weld something or burn up the ground lead on the case I don't think you will have damaged any of the electronics of the ECU. The starter circuit is electrically separate from the ECU, so that isn't the first place to start checking. As a first step, make sure the battery has a full charge. Then check all of the fuses to make sure they're okay. Then mark your relays so you can return them to the original position easily and try swapping them around. Depending upon what your particular bike has for relays, they may all be identical or there may be one different (the headlight relay), hence the need to mark them to avoid confusion and to not mix up good with bad when testing. You can use any relay in the V11 Sport in any position except that the headlight will not work if you have the wrong one in that spot when done. No damage results, so you can just put the correct one back in that position. Now try swapping relays around to see if anything changes. There are a few other things to check but probably the easiest thing to do (for us) at this point is to have you give us a complete list of what lights work on the dash, is sidestand up when you try, the clutch switch working etc. Also if you have any modifications to the wiring bypassing anything.

I'm going to guess that the operating and maintenance expenses for the Ducati are far lower...

Funny how a tongue in cheek post can get a foot in mouth response. Okay Dave, you can stop mumbling now...

My wife would shoot me if she thought this is why I added a Ural to the Guzzi collection These photos are from Motorcycle News.

That's absolutely Draconian. I went to junior college in Riverside and that is one f&*$ed up part of California. Under that legislation, it would be illegal for me drive my bone stock Ural down the dirt driveway to my house because it could considered an off-road vehicle. So here's to you Riverside County, California

You're probably correct, but I'm running on a two year old memory and it isn't a particularly clear one at that. Does yours fit on the outside of the porkchops? Mine does. Ugly.

Nope. I just called MI and told them I needed one for a 2001 Sport. That was two years ago. The second stand was given to me to try and the two of them are identical (except for the missing bits of course). I actually had the the second stand entirely installed, but the stand hit the crossover and wouldn't retract all of the way. I'm going to assume (and we know where that goes...) that the reason the stand hit the crossover is because the spacers on the pivot part of the stand have different widths to offset it to one side or the other. The problem is of course, if you have those spacers in the wrong spot, you have to completely disassemble the stand assembly to swap them - I didn't want to do that by that point. After all, you're pulling the engine mount bolt back and forth through the porkchops while you're mounting the thing and it's not an awful lot of fun. I'm going to bet that Billy Bob has better brakes than the Eldo - especially at 141.7 mph.

Mid-day, 30 March. Severe storm warning, winds to 70mph, possible hail to 2" and possibilitiy of tornadoes. I did ride this morning, but on the Ural since it won't blow over easily. I'm glad I left California, waiting for earthquakes is just so boring by comparison...