callison

Extracting the text from the instructions: Two wire stator connection Hook the wires up according to the DIAGRAM 1 if the stator only has two wires coming from it.The two YELLOW wires are the phase inputs, the GREEN connects to the battery negative,the RED connects to the battery positive and the WHITE is the charge warning light output. NOTE: Voltage sensing input from the ignition switch is built into the part. You will have a RED wire left over. Make sure you cap it off,so it can’t short out to the frame.Our RR51 is designed to work properly and safely without the 30A main fuse in the system. GREEN: Negative ( – ) RED: Positive( + ) WHITE Charge Warning Light 12V Battery YELLOW YELLOW ALTERNATOR - 2 CABLE TYPE V11 wiring: reg/green - fused battery circuit red/black - voltage sense yellow(s) - alternator leads black - ground case - ground as well That seems simple enough. Personally, I would leave the fused part of the circuit in place (red/green) since you won't have to change any wiring and if something goes wrong somewhere, you at least get an indication. It doesn't look as if the RR51 gives any kind of indication if 30A is exceeded. The fuse will. The red/black is unneeded. Just leave the connector empty. The black wire is routed to the existing regulator mount and it is necessary for the Ducati Electronica regulator, not because it's the ground lead to the battery as shown on all of the diagrams but because it also is the ground point for a couple items in the harness if I recall correctly from when I put the harness back in my bike. I certainly remember having problems with something until I found that errant black wire and hooked it up. Therefore, you should hook the black Guzzi wire to the green RR51 wire. The yellow wires are one for one. No polarity, that's the AC from the alternator.

2WD (selectable, not full-time)

Patience Grasshopper.

Well gee Al, I've got so many projects that I thought I'd add yet another one - a 2005 Ural Patrol. It was supposed to be delivered to the dealer yesterday but Roadway has it pigeonholed in St. Louis so I certainly won't get it in time for Christmas. That's the breaks I guess. Had I stayed with my original plan to get a Breva 1100, it would (finally) be sitting in my garage right now and not going anywhere because of the temperature (somewhere, hiding in one of the boxes yet to be unpacked from the move, is my cold weather gear).

I used the same method BBennett posted a further up the thread. You just hacksaw off the "post" off of the bottom of the mirror base mount so that it can be bolted on flat to the top of the lever housing.

Well, Frankensport got it's new VIN and registration Monday. After failing to get a good impression with the cheapo Harbor Tool and Freight stamp set, I hauled the bike to a machine shop and had it done. We did it in the back of my truck in the balmy 34˚F weather. As soon as we were done, the bike slipped and fell to the right side of the truck. Bent the truck bed side up a bit and thoroughly munged the paint there as well but amazingly enough, the bike didn't suffer too much indignity. A good scuff on the plastic of the tank and the tail cowling that look like they'll polish out. That's some really tough plastic! After righting the bike again and getting it properly secured, I went home and off-loaded it. I say off-loaded because I had intended unload it but the ramp was wet and icy and the bike slid off and plunged tail first into my gravel driveway. Drat. Another munged spot, this time at the tip of the left rear silencer. Normally I'd get kind of upset with this kind of thing but this time I was (1) too cold. And (2) this bike has already been totalled once and dropped a number of times. It just doesn't make a whole lot of difference if another minor scrape is added. At any rate, when I get a chance (warmer weather, it's 23˚F right now) I'll determine what the electrical problem is and then it will be on to further adventures with the buncha bikes in the shed, the garage, hiding in boxes...

I think they work better than stock. The mirror arm is shorter so there's a little less flex there and the resonant frequency is different as well. My experience has been very positive with these. They're also a damn sight less expensive than stock and more readily available if they have to be replaced for some (usually bad ) reason.

For the front Marchesini/Brembo V11 OEM wheels you can make the task of popping out the bearings relatively easily: Remove the brake rotors. Use a heat gun to loosen the rotor carrier bolts and carefully remove them. There are 3 slots at 120˚ around the hub under the rotor mounts that will allow you to use a very long medium size flat blade screwdriver to drive the bearing on the opposite side out without a great deal of effort. The rear bearings must have been really easy, I don't even remember how I did them.

Holy Smokes! Is that engine as massive as it looks?

My 2001 frame is red. I think the change was for the 2002 models along with the engine paint at the same time. Of course, the 2002 models became available in 2001 just to confuse the issue. Everybody does it except the Russians. They're pretty literal on production dates.

That certainly is more svelte then the stock one.

I rather liked most of it, I assumed that it had clipons when I didn't notice any higher handlebars and I liked the tailpiece as well. I never looked too close or too critically. I wish your friend luck on getting one for Christmas.

Wow, that is a freak accident. Sorry to that it happened to you. I wish you a full recovery.

Well, to answer your question, they're very uncommon and share with Moto Guzzi's that odd engine layout and shaft drive. From the web site: 1955 Victoria Victoria Bergmeister 350cc Title: Bill of Sale Numbers Matching: Yes Price: $7,000 Description: A very rare German 90degree twin / shaft drive / 350cc / Restored and Running well / Only 3 or 4 in the USA / One sold recently for $15,000

Luddite! Yer standin' in the way of progress

Thanks Mike, but I already have a second harness, cpu, all of the sensors, take your pick. I just need the bike to be street legal where the trouble shooting will have to be done. All I have to do for the moment, is get the bike over to the machine shop Monday and get the VIN stamped on and then spend 15 minutes at the tag office getting it registered and the plates issued. Then the fun begins. If I don't find a problem in the wiring harness somewhere, then I'll switch harnesses.

Too easy to identify - so the quiz is: "Does anybody have a spare $7000 kicking around?" Mariah Motor Classics

Veypor

Crap. I blathered on and forgot to mention the wheels are powdercoated white.

The ECU fuse. It's weird. I hope no one else ever encounters this problem. I'll be able to resolve it now that it can go on the road.

I'lljust go back over the details lightly. My neighbor backed into me in September of 2003 and I impacted him going fast enough to bend a lot of stuff up front and the frame. I got a (Ducati?) wheel off of eBay, spares from my garage, brake disks from Joe Camarda and initially, a set of LeMans forks from Al Roethelisberger. I replaced the LeMans forks with WP's sourced from Guzzi Reboot Spares as well as a 1996 Sport 1100i frame from the same place. The 1996 frame got the torque arm anchor re-located and the steering lock tab cut back 1 centimeter to clear the V11 Sport fork tree. The rims have been bodercoated white, the frame is a sparkly silver powdercoat and the side plates are from a Sport 1100i (I had some black powdercoated sideplates but managed to severely strip them so a replacement set was purchased from Guzzi Reboot Spares - Pete should be living the life fantastic now I've thrown so much money his way). Other than than that, the bike really is very close to stock. Engine, swingarm, wiring, all that stuff, are from the 2001 V11 Sport TT. The airbox is pretty much held in place by the top hardware and friction. None of the bottom mounts are there on the frame so the airbox didn't get secured at that end. A lot of spine mounted parts need some sort of tomfoolery to make them fit because everything is different. Still it runs, it just has this truly nasty habit of blowing the fuse if you open the throttle suddenly. Run gently, it gives no problems whatsoever. You just can't run it the way you're supposed to able to run one of these beasts. I'll start fixing that right after I have the plates on and it's street legal again. Lest you think that I could have started that a while ago, consider that most states confiscate an unregistered vehicle when they catch an offender.

The fuse only blows when I'm on the bike, moving, and opening the throttle suddenly. So, to trouble shoot it, it has to be street legal. I've tried any number of things that ought to locate the problem without the bike on the street and in motion to no avail. So now, I can at least start trouble shooting again. I'm thinking at this point that it's the seat getting depressed from my weight under acceleration and pushing a relay or wiring harness connection. Of course, it could just be a relay too, although they've been replaced already.

Tomorrow, I head over to Oklahoma City to get the paperwork for a new VIN on FrankenSport. Then it's a trip to the Tag Office, pay a bunch of registration fees, get the new license plate and the beast is back on the road. Now, I can start trouble shooting the blowing fuse problem. Looks like it's going to be a very Merry Christmas! 25˚F in the morning is a bit too dear to go riding in though. At least the 27 months of rebuilding and paperwork are finally coming to a close!

You may have a bad electric fuel tap. Also, if it's really cold out, any moisture at the bottom of the tank may be frozen in the tap as well. Just another thing to check. Actually, since the starter spins, I think you're just not getting any fuel. Let us know what you find and it will get added to the communal knowledge base.