callison

Check here Joe Kenny and if he doesn't have what you want, he can certainly fabricate them.

I've repaired one too, but I absolutely recommend removing the valve from the tank and placing the tank outdoors where there is no danger of ignition. If the tank is 1/2 half or less full (maybe more??), you can just use something soft as a pad and set the tank nose end down on the padding, leaned against the garage or somewhere and then remove the fuel petcock. Keep the gas outdoors and avoid potential problems.

I considered that very same bike and decided to stick with obtaining a Breva 1100 from the same dealer. Beginning to wonder though, if the Big Breva will ever make it to a dealer in the USA. Should it not, I'm considering a Ural hack. Or not.

Perfect!!!

It's only a flesh wound...

Honda's air-cooled 125cc 5 cylinder ran 22,500 rpm. Yes for the two valve engine, no for a combustion chamber where the plug is centrally located such as the 4 valve engine. Anything that promotes combustion efficiency is good for emission control. The downside is often added complexity. Honesty forces me to state that I could be completely wrong on these replies.

What if it were just the emollients outgassing from the new tires? MG doesn't have enough money to grease the palms of the smog crew in California where other manufacturers consider that part of the development costs. If MGNA wants a 50 state bike and can't afford the bribes, there will never be a new Guzzi shipped to the USA again and that will be the end of that. I agree that the technical reasons for smog controls are necessary and they do work. The political and administrative beauracracy surrounding smog certification in the great state of Kalifornia is one of the crookedest and self-serving nightmares ever served against a paying public.

Courtesy of Todd Haven on the (newly revived) WildGuzzi Forum: Well, The oft-delayed Breva 1100 has been delayed once again. Seems the bike has yet to pass the "SHED" test in California. http://www.webberemi.com/SHED%20Brochure%20.htm The muckity-mucks(best word I can use without risking a ban this early on) at MGNA have decided no bikes will be importd to the U.S. untill they are 50-states approved. We've been told that "California dealers would be upset" if other dealers were able to offer a product unavailable to Ca. dealers. I wholeheartedly concur! What a horrible precedent to set. Wink Look for the Breva 1100 sometime in November, but I'm betting on a week before Christmas. Oughta fly off the showroom floor. New leadership takes over Jan 1, 2006. This is good news. Despite my tone above, I am truly upbeat about the coming changes. What a long, strange trip it's been.. Todd Haven MPH Cycles www.mphcycles.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, it's going to be deep into winter before the Breva shows - if ever. Might as wait for the Griso. A Ural side-car hack is beginning to look ever more reasonable and definitely more obtainable.

It doesn't need to. You use a capacitive discharge system on a pulse forming network, just like an air search radar. You won't get but one pulse once in a while or when triggered (preferably) but you can get one doozy of a pulsed magnetic field. I've seen fields of a million Tesla from capacitor banks about the size of a Volkswagon bug and you surely don't need fields of that strength. The whole coil and charge unit shouldn't be much larger than a large ignition coil.

The wavering tach is frequently a symptom of the case mounting stud breaking loose. It's a pita to fix if that's the case, but it isn't impossible. A search of the forum should turn up my approach to repairing the problem. If not, I'll dig them up from one of my computer archives.

I call the dealer every other week and inquire. The answer is always the same, "MGNA keeps telling us it's this month (October). They have 3 weeks left to make good on that one. Yeah Team!! Yawn... I should just have my son (stationed in the UK) pick up a Griso and ship it to me.

I haven't seen any. If there were, Goffredo would probably post them before anyone else. From what I understood from the MGNA rep a year ago, after the Griso there would be a naked version of the Breva 1100 (what, a tank sans silly wings - whatever), followed by a full up faired touring version. IMHO, MG should have started with the fully faired touring Breva and gone after the BMW market while providing the Griso as a serious contrast. YMMV.

I'll take the shade of grey approaching perfection without needlessly trying to acheive it.

Make sure your regulator is fastened tightly to the frame. Other than that, I would interpret the light coming on at high rpm or heat as a signal that the regulator is having problems at the high end of its regulation and that it might fail eventually. That's just a guess though. The next thing to check (and it's free), is to yank the tank and check the two yellow wires coming from the alternator where they join the main harness just under the left front side of the fuel tank. Make sure that those are clean and if necessary, separate the connectors and slightly crimp the female side to ensure a tighter connection before putting them back together.

I bought one at my local BMW shop. It's a magnet and not a spectacularly good one at that. Heat is less likely to diminish its effects than vibration. Either way, it isn't likely to have much of an effect on whether vehicle detector loops acknowledge the presence of a motorcycle.

Ah, but that's the beauty of it, I can just arrange my schedule to coincide with yours! As for beer, the only truly great beer I've ever run across in the USA is the house porter at the Independence Pub and Grill in Philadelphia. There a bunch of good beers here (maybe not by international standards though) but for my money, that's the only truly great one. So I'll have to give your favorite a try since it's a bit too far to go to Philadelphia just for a beer.

It's one of those magnets sold as a "Green Light". I doubt they actually work any better than a similarly sized chunk of iron. I got curious about this and did a quick search on WebCrawler for "traffic detector loops specifications". That got me to the Diablo Controls (a typical company for this stuff in California) and the spec sheets for their units. There are a lot of settings that the units can be programmed with. I'll bet a beer that their selection of "normal" as shipped is what is typically being used virtually everywhere because the traffic engineers are just going to "Plug and Play" rather than setting up their systems to accomodate different types of vehicles. Perhaps we should be engaing in a letter writing to the manufacturers of these things so they get shipped with appropriate settiings rather than letting lazy traffic engineers fail to do the right thing. Going a bit further down the list of WebCrawler hits, I found this jewel of information: A vehicle entering the detection zone above the loop will “absorb some of the radio frequency energy” present in the loop. The reason that this absorption occurs is due to eddy currents in the vehicle body and frame, and not the engine as is sometimes thought (ITE, 1985). Since the passing or standing vehicle absorbed energy, the loop inductance falls. The detector is set to recognize an absolute or relative inductance change (∆L or ∆L/L, respectively) of at least a minimum amount, termed the “sensitivity” of the detector. Aha!!! We need to ABSORB the energy. A magnet won't do diddly squat for that - we could add layers of microwave absorbent "stealth" foam to bottom of our bikes or perhaps a Helmholtz resonator tuned to the rf frequency of the detector loop. Well, probably not. Not enough space down there for that - but - in the true tradition of radar speed detectors, there is not any reason why a detector for the vehicle use couldn't be built that determines the frequency of the traffic detector loop and then generates a matching frequency (and pulse if necessar) and transmits to the detector loop an out of phase signal to electronically "absorb" the signal. All we're tryiing to do here is convince the electronic hardware attached to the loop that the signal is indeed being "absorbed" by a vehicle and to operate as it should. Call it an electronic "footprint" enhancer. Hey Cliff, I have a new "project" for ya!!!

The advantage to being retired is the ability to set your schedule to anything that pleases you. Until the wife gets into the mix that is

Well Adam, I've sort of got dibs on the first red Breva 1100 to show up at the dealer in Wichita. My plan of delivery is to put all of the miles necessary for the first service on the bike in the first day and return the bike for service the second day and as soon as that is finished, head on home. Since Kansas City is about 200 miles from Wichita, maybe I should just head your way for the first leg, try out some of that beer, let you check out the big Breva and then head for Salina to see where I lived as a kid and then head back to Wichita. Today's the tenth of October, so we're looking at no more than three weeks before the end of the month and the Breva is supposed to be in dealers hands this month here in the USA. What do you think of that plan? If the delivery date slips much though, I'm going to be mighty torqued, I'm scheduled for a jazz cruise out of Galveston in early November (retirement trip) and the delivery date had damn well better be well before that! Carl in Chandler, Oklahoma

I got a pair of brand new NTK L1H1 off of eBay two years ago. Still got 'em around here somewhere if someone wants one reasonably cheap. I paid $190 for the pair. Make me an offer...

What he said. It looks like Momma is right there guarding her little girl too.

I'll guarantee that the original color can't be matched with powder coat. Of course, you're not limited to red. I tried black (then stripped the swingarm spindle threads) and wound up going with silver. If I ever find a tap and die for that spectacularly odd thread in the porkchop, I'll have the other set repaired.

I think you have to get a new bung welded in.

I would guess that the wiring under the tail section is getting snagged or something. I'm unclear as to how you wired this rig up - have you got a diagram?

I have (had) a 2001 Sport. At speeds over the ton it wavered a bit rather than tracking straight and true. Same bike, same speed but with the Tekno bags on it (no luggage inside) was dead stable at speeds up to 134 mph. I don't remember whether that was with different tires or not but the following year I had it up to 131 fully loaded with camping gear and it was still stable. At that point I know I was riding on Metzelers - a tire I find very compatible with my riding style. Since then, the bike (FrankenSport) has a different frame (96 Sport) with the V11 triple tree (1 cm less trail) and I haven't noticed any real weirdness with it but I've only ridding a little of 100 miles on it. Even when the original frame was twisted, buckled under and bent, the engine mounts and transmission mounts were cracked and a set of LeMans forks were installed on it (flush to top of fork crown so they were too tall) the bike was still fairly stable and didn't exhibit any really malevolent behavior. It didn't feel right though. I'm still waiting to see how the 96 Sport frame will work. It has 1˚ more rake than the V11 Sport and 1 cm less trail with the V11 Sport triple tree on it. DasMototec sells triple trees for the early Sports with even less trail than that so I suspect that it will be okay. I'm just waiting now to see if I can get that bike legally back on the road.