callison

Good old Placerville. I lived on Green Valley Road across from Raley's when I graduated from Ponderosa High in 1969. Haven't been back much since. Even less likely now that I've bailed from California and settled in Oklahoma. Placerville has some pretty nice roads around it though and I'm going to miss the Hwy 49 and Sierras some. Welcome to the forum. You've found a new home!

Just what I want. Anybody want to buy FrankenSport for use as a track bike?

Sounds like the clutch interlock switch to me too. With the bike not running, listen closely to the clutch handle when you engage it. If you hear a clicking every time you pull the clutch lever, your switch is fine. If not, adjust it until it clicks - it's a microswitch secured by two tiny little bolts on the clutch assembly. If you can't get it to click at all, it needs to be replaced. If it always clicks, then the connections to it under the tank on the left side may be giving problems. It has happened before, I'm sure it will happen again. You didn't specifiy which connection you had worked on - that would be helpful to the rest of this thread.

The cracks don't generally penetrate too far into the rubber. I think a treatment of Armor All or a layer of Scotchcote to preserve the surface is probably sufficient until you have either 5 years or about 80,000 miles on them. I replaced mine at 56,000 miles on my Sport 1100i, but the cracking was only about 1/4 to 1/2 way through the rubber. I would guess that heat and ozone and the major culprits here. Air leaks are slightly more probable at the gaskets than the intake boots judging from I've seen other Guzzi owners go through on some of the older bikes. The boots aren't cheap either, I seem to recall popping about $70 for a pair of them.

Looks like page 1220 might have the best options.

Not stupid suggestions at all. I've looked, but perhaps I've overlooked something. The fuse only blows when actually seated on the bike and accelerating. On a stand - no problem. Accelerate slowly - no problem. I can even run it near redline without problems. Exceed redline though and the fuse blows. I must have gotten something wrong when I put the bike back together after it was totalled. Eventually, I'll get it resolved. Alternatively, I may just part the thing out and stick the (better) engine/exhaust in my Sport 1100i.

I've bought a used harness just because of this problem and the state of exasperation it has brought about. Eventually, I'll find which box it was shipped in and start the replacement process.

The Sport 1100i instrument panel gets floppy too. So do the ECU mounts as the rubber unbonds from the metal. I've had reasonably good luck using superglue to rebond the parts. Eventually, the rubber just deteriorates beyond repair though and the part has to be replaced. Because I'm a notoriously cheap bastard and the the MG parts tend to have astronomical prices, I expect tthat I will use pieces of fuel line for the rubber parts when the replacement becomes necessary.

It's the fuse to the ECU. Tried two different ECU's too. No joy. Only happens when riding the bike. Maybe it's a seat vs relay thing. Baffled and a bit PO'd as the bike is ready to go except for this little "quirk".

Finally got internet at my new house about 35 minutes ago. I don't want to go into the costs of satellite hookups when residing in the hinterlands. It's rained nearly every day since we moved in 3 weeks ago so I rewired all of the stuff I added to FrankenSport figuring that it was something I did that causes the ECU fuse to fry whenever the throttle is whacked open. Once it finally stopped raining long enough for me to screw up the courage to ride the 4000 feet of newly oiled gravel road that passes for the main drag in my housing area, I headed for the immortal Route 66 to try out the repairs. Crap and damn!!! The stupid fuse still blows. More things to do I suppose... Went to the local club races at Hallet Motor Speedway last Sunday with two friends - one on a Triumph Triple and the other on a 2002 LeMans (champagne). Nice to know that I only have to go 56 miles to get to the races.

Somewhere, sequestered on my hard disk, I have a comparison of a Sport 1100i (or was it a Daytona - gotta find the article) with a Ducati 900SS and the Guzzi just barely nudged out the duck for better bike.

The answer is yes and I don't want to talk about it...

Jeez Dave, if all you want is to save weight, a mere $1,164.44 USD will get you an entire rear frame section for a V11 Sport fabricated out of aluminum. aluminum 1.4kg. steel 4.6kg

Well, the translation software for Japanese leaves me scratching my head in wonder and confusion (they do seem to like the bike though), but at least the Guzzi Sport Jingushi web site has a review of the Breva 1100. Better, they took it apart, so I'm going to point to some photos.

I swapped out timing chest covers in an hour and a half. Later on, I replaced the timing chest gasket in about an hour. It's not terribly difficult and you don't have to loosen the upper bolts for the front engine subframe on the spine either. Once you get the horns and regulator off, it becomes real obvious what has to actually be removed or loosened. Then the cover can be jockeyed out and the repairs begun.

When the manufacturer of these wheels makes a new width rim, they don't typically change the hub - just the rim portion. To do otherwise would burden the designers, bike manufacturers and the foundry to name a few, with additional measurements, molds ad infinitum. I will go so far as to say that ALL of the components that comprise the brakes, spacers, wheel bearings etc are identical for the 4.5 and 5.5 inch rims. I have a Marchesini front wheel on my V11 Sport that I got off of eBay that was on a Japanese bike (or something, certainly not a Guzzi). All I had to do was pop out the bearings and install the correct Guzzi ones as well as the Guzzi spacer and bolt on the correct Brembo rotors for the bike. There are no differences in the basic wheel. Just the spacers, bearings and rotors to accommodate the various manufacturers fork width etc. The 4.5 and 5.5 rims should interchange with no problem.

Will it thread in without the wheel? If so, take the wheel and make sure the spacer is centered on the holes on both sides, then try assembling the whole thing. You should put something under the wheel to keep it up and aligned with the axle holes in the forks too. Holding the wheel by hand is possible, but not the most accurate or easiest way to accomplish the task.

Allow me to confuse the issue: Here's a "proppie" - on a boat. Aquatic analog to a wheelie.

Some of the higher ups in the US gov need vapor recovery systems...

According to Todd Haven over on the wildguzzi forum, the USA release for the Breva 1100 has been delayed due to "fuel tank homologation issues". Say what?

I've figured out what to do with the Breva 1100 tank. Get a cover made for the whole thing. That won't do much for hiding the "ears" going forward but at least it will de-enhance the styling of the tank. Then again... maybe not.

The whole lot of them are in storage at the moment. After we move into the new house, I get to start on them. The Sport 1100i has never been resolved - but - a mutual friend of RacerX and I had similar problems with his Sport 1100i and apparently, replacing the stock cam chain tensioner with the Agostini type fixed his problem. I have the new tensioner awaiting installation. If that doesn't work, I have an entire V11 Sport wiring harness I can drop in and try a completely different type of computer! If that doesn't work, I have lots of hammers... Ah, no, couldn't do that, but the feeling tends to persist at times. I have replaced or substituted known good sensors for every EFI sensor on the bike, changed the regulator, the battery, tried Cliff's computer, used every explitive I know and still haven't gotten it working. The cam chain tensioner is just about the only thing left. The V11 Sport awaits resolution as well. The first thing I'm going to do is remove my hokey relay/fuse installation that sits in front of the battery and move the individual components somewhere else. I strongly suspect that since the only time the fuse blows is when I sitting on the bike, that the front of the seat tab is moving back under acceleration and causing my weird wiring addition to ground out somewhere. Now, since that seems just a little weird, I'll just add that I added two relays to handle a heated vest and horns. I also wanted them to be able to actuate only when the bike was running. To do that, I tapped off of the bottom of the fuse block - on the ECU lead - to provide power to the two relays. So, when things go awry, that's the fuse that blows - with very negative repercussions. It ought to be a simple fix really, re-locating the parts and re-soldering the wire lengths to the new location will be the most difficult part. Then it should work. I hope. Then the fun begins. I have to get the beast registered in a new state and the VIN does not match the frame. I have the original, bent, twisted frame, so at least I can do something about it. I would have done it before I left California, but I couldn't trust the bike to make it down to the Department of Motor Vehicles, plus strapping the old frame to the back of the Sport didn't seem too realistic. The California works fine. Too bad that immediately after I replaced the clutch plates, the clutch pushrod seal let go and oiled up the plates. I've degreased them, but there is still a small bit of plate shudder when the clutch is engaged. So be it. 4000 miles later, I haven't had any problems. That bike however, is slated to be replaced with a Breva 1100. I'm just not fond of the California, despite the pretty fair use I've gotten out of it.

Marabese Design original concept drawing for the V11 LeMans [edit/May 2020 by docc: restored image and linked to milar's source image. Thanks, callison, thank you milar!]

The same way I've done it in the past. Drive a pair of screwdrivers into it and grab those with channel-locks. Messy. Works. Funny how you'd swear that the filter wasn't overtight when you installed it and later on, it sticks like a used car salesman to a prospective customer.

I think I would comprehend it better if you did explain Pete. You needn't do it now, but if you would post one of your famous Roper treatises on the subject in the Technical Topics section, I'm sure there are a lot of us that would really appreciate your efforts.