callison

Probably not. The regulator is up front so what you hit was the ECU. The ECU case is solidly grounded and shields the interior pretty well. You might have damaged the ground wire on the case of the ECU though, so I'd give that a real good measurement with an ohmmeter. If that ground wire melted inside of the wire harness, you would also have problems there but a meter will tell you first whether there is good continuity or not. FWIW, I've hit the ECU case on my California with the positive battery lead before and done no damage. Now for the important part. When you are disconnecting the battery - disconnect the Negative terminal first. That way, when you're wrenching on the positive terminal afterwards or a positive battery connection flails about, it will have no return path through any of the surrounding motorcycle frame, electrical components and so forth.

I think I'd just try a new pair of plugs first as well as set the valves correctly. This follows the KISS philosophy and costs next to nothing. If results don't improve or at least point to something more specific - then - start the more complicated gyrations. If you have a good dealer, you might just want to let them do a good tune-up first and establish a baseline for your bikes behavior.

I saw a tan? Griso at the International Motorcycle Show in San Mateo, California last year. Personally, I think it looks even better in the lighter color. I'm beginning to think I need a Breva 1100 and a Griso, but I'd have to have a job to do that and I'm resisting the notion for the time being.

maps.google.com is fairly good and is a browser window. Default mode is a zoomed out map of the USA but you can click on "satellite" in the upper right hand corner and get satellite views. Resolution varies for various locations in the USA (too bad it doesn't do the rest of the world although you can see a very poor resolution image of the U.K.). It's kind of fun to look at all of the craters at the Nevada Test Site or cruise over to Area 51 (not great resolution there though). I didn't see any aliens...

Even better, you got out of that section of Oakland alive.

Dang it Joe, you're supposed to pick us up at the airport Tuesday, not have us bail you out of jail!

Dang Jaap. That's too bad, but I'm more than glad that you're okay.

Dayco #80404 heater hose. Match the bend of the Dayco up against the bend in the original hose and cut off the excess on the Dayco. It's about 1 5/8" on the short end and 7 3/8" on the long part, but I'm not swearing those are the correct lengths to cut as I'm going from memory. If you cut it correctly, the longer end will gracefully curve down to the crankcase breather spigot and the the whole thing will fit on quite nicely. This part number is courtesy of the wildguzzi forum, but I forget who posted it and have not found my original reference. Regardless, my thanks to them. Later edit: Drat the small screen on the step mothers computer is a liability. Missed that reference above to the GuzziTech site. John Spinelli is not a computer user but does have a devastatingly lovely yellow 97 Sport 1100i in the San Louis Obispo area of California.

You schmuck It's a 2004 and I want it back when you're finished. Did you get your bike back from the shop yet?

Looks to be about 255 miles. Not too far.

Hey Skeeve, just where are you anyway? Southeast Oklahoma and the northwest corner of Arkansas are supposed to be real nice, so I'm going to have to check them out.

It's hot, it's humid and it's green like California never dreamed of being. My driveway (4000' of gravel with nine each ninety degree turns) dumps out on the famous Route 66. You can just hear the Harleys going by from the house. I haven't seen anything here but cruiser bikes, one Gold Wing and one BMW. Dozens and dozens of HD's. Wonder what they're going to make of the weird V twin with the engine in sideways... I have completely reconsidered what my next bike will be. I lusted after an MGS01, a Ghezzi-Brian or an MV Augusta F4 1000S. I could probably have managed to buy one too, but one look at the roads in my area convinced me that a mellow V twin with some touring legs would be the most appropriate. I'll be checking out the Breva 1100 when it comes out or modifying the California way beyond it's original intent.

I think the difference is the chronometric thing is kind of like a clock movement in reverse so that gearing and an escape mechanism move the needle. Entirely unsure on that. Expensive to make though, compared to the eddy current type of speedometers normally used in vehicles. That one is sort of a magnetic drag on a disk driving the needle. No gears whatsoever.

I'm busy moving to Oklahoma, so please don't try to email me. PM's through here are okay, but I won't have consistant access to a computer for a while. Wish me luck guys. I retire July 1st. Now to see if I can survive on what they'll pay me...

Babelfish translation of Anima Guzzista interview with Danilo Mojoli

If you're talking about the Kisan stuff, they seem to have a life of exactly two years. I've had three Kisan SM-2's crap out on three different bikes at about the two year point. One bike hadn't even been ridden 150 miles in that time. I'm beginning to think the Kisan's are not so great. Since I use them primarily for the running lights option, I'm going to design my own for the next round.

Hogwash Besides, I would have put his bike on my trailer - where I could've got to it if the truck crapped out.

I should've thought to offer Al, but I could have taken your bike as far as Oklahoma basically for free. I could've even put some miles on it for you...

This really is one of those deals where you apply the KISS philosophy (Keep It Simple Stupid). Having never failed to reach out and grab a big handful of stupidity myself when working on something, I'll go with Richards recommendation. Change the bulb. The simplest thing. Then, if it doesn't work - start checking the wiring connections both in the taillight assembly and in the wiring loom under the tailpiece. Don't forget, use both the foot and hand brakes to actuate the light just in case one of those has a malfunction. If you've had the front brake lever off for any reason, it's just real easy to loose the little ball bearing that actuates the micro-switch. I've also had the metal lug on the micro-switch break off rendering the front brake switch useless. The rear brake switch generally doesn't give problems unless you've been pressure washing the bike. But really, start with a new bulb.

You would be hard put to ask a question so stupid that no one here would bother to reply! This is one friendly and enthusiastic group of people. Welcome to the fold

I'm using FireFox and it has no problem. However, it does say it's stopping a popup. That may the problem or it may not be. There's really no text on that site, just some pictures and I don't know whether it's the same guy or not either. Maybe someone else can get it to display and give us an answer.

Frankie 100 Chili Just thought I'd provide the link as there are some nice photos.

No kidding. Your left front wears out like crazy? Dave, are you driving a JZR these days? That's way cool. BTW, I've run through something like 11 sets of tires across both of my sport bikes. Typically, I get 7000-7500 miles per set. Currently I'm running Metzeler Sportec M1's. Front tends to wear a tad less than the rear, but I change them at the same time.

Jeez Tim. You want to admit to knowing people like that? Gillespie is nothing. Watch Arnette Coleman sometime.

True, but you've got to have something to clamp the hose to before the hose clamp is of any utility. I am in no way affiliated or recommending these fittings or anything of that nature. I'm merely responding with a possible source of repair parts that may or may not fit the Guzzi tanks with the internal pumps. There are 4 pieces in the set judging from the picture. Two for the tank and two for the hose. I don't have a problem with hose clamps either. Quick disconnects would be nice, but aren't a necessity. For the boutique bling bling set, they're just the thing.