callison

They get dirty, they read wrong. Ya spray'em. They read different. Probably still wrong. They're only generally indicative of the pressure. I don't trust them for accuracy.

The pencil type gauges are wildly inaccurate, especially as they get dirty. Just spraying some light lube into one can make the reading change considerably. Digital gauges should not suffer this problem but they can be calibrated incorrectly, especially if they come from some unknown assembly plant in Bangladesh or whatever. I have one of the ones that the BMW dealer sells, and I have no reason to doubt that it's calibration is probably very close to the actual pressure being read. It's just a good tool. Priced like a SnapOn I suppose, but worth the investment.

Where there's a will there's a way I suppose. Good luck.

ROK Straps A couple of these and a soft neoprene pad to protect the paint on the tail cowling and you're set. For about $30. I've never used anything more secure than these straps. Tested to 131mph

Who was it that was looking for replacement parts for the newer tank? I wonder if these will do. They're metal, not plastic and for a Ducati. Currently there are a four complete of sets of these on eBay. Quick disconnect fuel line fitting Ducati 748 996 998 Dan's Ducati Parts

Oh no. Another music thread!

I've had the same problem with the Dunwell adaptors on my ATV lift. The upright posts actually insert into receptacles on the adaptor. This is good because you have to remove them to clear the bottom of the bike, but it's also bad because they're not a tight fit and the extra slop can allow for the ears to slide free of the engine mount bolt. As it turns out, they can be installed with the ears inwards as well, so slipping off is no longer an issue. I'm really lazy now too, I use a paddock stand to get the bike upright initially and high enough to clear the lift and then getting the lift in place is relatively painless. Lifts can give you a great deal of height to ease access to the bike as well.

Personally, I just slip the axle back through to support the rear drive box after removing the wheel. I don't know what anyone else does.

Well, there was this rumor that they had broken the mold for one of the cylinder heads and so they couldn't make any more. And another rumor about just building enough MGS01's to use up all of the 4V parts still kicking around the factory. There may not actually be any "production" type tooling either if the MGS01's are all hand-built. Doesn't mean I don't want one though. Either engine. Maybe even with a VA10 engine. Dreams. Only dreams...

I'd settle for a 2V MGS01 if it were street legal and available.

You just covered 100% of the available manufacturers. FWIW, the one on my Sport 1100i is quite useful, but I don't know if it will be a problem for clearance or not because 1) the bike isn't really running and 2) I don't ride very hard. I have one (actually 2) for the V11 Sport and I couldn't get it to fit correctly with the stock crossover, but since there are no instructions and there are different bushing lengths I may have done it wrong. I'll try again after I move. Also, the stand wasn't tall enough when I tried it because I had a WP shock on the bike and it jacked the bike up a bit too much. I've changed back to the Sachs for now, so maybe the stand would fit.

Great Joe. Another six months and you should have it back again!!!

Don't you just love a simple inexpensive timely fix?

I just tried the link and had no problems. Give it another shot or go to the original site - it hasn't gone away yet and won't for maybe 3 more weeks.

Well, since it's a bit of a nuisance to access the bulbs in the dash, let's start with the accessable first. The low fuel switch just acts like a short when the fuel level is low, so if you disconnect the fuel sensor connector under the tank and check the sensor leads (the tank end), they should read zero ohms if the tank is truly low. With 160 miles on it, it might be, but if all you've been doing is cruising down the road at a steady 70mph or so, it might still have a few gallons left in it. I've seen 215 miles on a tank in that mode although the light is definitely on when you have that many miles on the tank. But I digress. If the tank is really low, the sensor should read close to zero ohms, if there's fuel, it should read open. Since you have the plug disconnected, you can check the low fuel light bulb out too. Turn the bike ignition on and take a jumper wire and hook one end to ground and probe the other end of the fuel sensor connector (the one from the harness) and when you hit the correct pin, the low fuel light should illuminate. One lead is ground and one lead has 12 volts on it coming from the light bulb. If you can't get the light to illuminate at all, then you can start pulling the dash apart. The bulb is in series with the connector, sticking a ground wire in there will not blow a fuse or anything.

With your symptoms, it sounds like a TPS that is remarkably out of bounds. If you have a digital voltmeter and know how to use it, there are a number of people on this forum that will walk you through setting it.

Greg Bender has generously re-hosted my web site - everything, not just schematics, and he had it all in place in an incredibly short time. I think this speaks volumes for the kind of folks that populate the Guzzi fold. My thanks also to the other folks that offered to re-host the schematics. You guys are all incredible. Many Thanks. New URL: Guzzi Schematics

This just gets better and better I put the bike on the stand the other night and started it up. With the seat off I could mash on any part of the wiring loom around the relays, ECU, fuses - wherever without blowing a fuse. Thinking that maybe it had something to do with engine load and rpm, I put the beast in 6th gear and opened it up. 110mph on the stand in my garage - I don't like thinking what would happen if the stand slipped. It didn't blow any fuses. I'm in a quandary. Runs like a champ until you sit on it and open the throttle and then - wham! - it blows the fuse. I wished like hell I could repeat the problem when I'm in a position where I could look at it. Damn damn blithering coal burning dinghy. I'm digging deep into my book of worthless swear words and phrases as I've just about worn out all of the ones I normally use.

I looked at the schematic and that circuit feeds the starter relay, headlight relay, run switch, horn and headlight brakelight switches etc. Taking a not too terribly informed stab at possible shorts, I would suggest that you might want to take a look at the wiring around the horns and maybe even inside the right handlebar switch. The other loads on that fuse have something on the other leg like a light or relay armature, so they're not as likely to be sources of too much current drain unless a bulb socket is bad (possible) or a relay coil has a problem (also possible). We're planning to visit my son where he's stationed in the U.K. next year. I very much want to return to Denmark as well as Germany and a few more countries that I haven't been to.

Way cool. Interesting headlight treatment.

Blue Cheer? I thought they all died of drug over doses years ago...

They ain't broke. They just ain't fixed...

Sounds like your regulator isn't doing its job. I'd carefully check the wiring from the alternator, expecially the two bullet connectors, which are generally under the tank - they have to fit very snugly. Also check the other connections in the connector blocks on the regulator wiring harness. The bad news is, the regulator is not cheaper than a starter if purchased from MGNA. A good alternative is the ESR510 (formerly Electrex R51) from ElectroSport.

MGS01 (U.K.) I'd really like one of these. It must be time to buy another lottery ticket. I mean, I always have the numbers right, but the cretins that run the lottery machine manage to get it to dispense the wrong balls - every time. Barbarians.

If you have frame, engine and/or transmission case numbers, it might be worthwhile to contact eBay and notify them that you expect stolen parts to show up there.