callison

I know a guy that bought a Guzzi from Big Twin in Boise and then left on a trip to Crater Lake in Oregon. A pretty fair distance away. The bike broke down so he called Big Twin. They not only immediately sent out a trailer to pick it up, they brought along a loaner without even being asked to. These are the kind of dealers ANY marque needs. Guzzi needs them even more. And there will never be enough.

Takes about 2 minutes. It's an old program for Macintosh's called pict2ascii.

I guess it depends on the size of monitor or how high you can set the resolution. It has to be stretched out horizontally until the picture elements snap into place.

There's always the possibility of the phase sensor gap being too large.

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Late model Guzzis all have the Marelli 15M, even the MGS01. You can bet your bottom dollar the maps for each model are different though!

Which fuse specifically? The next time you go for a ride, please do me a favor and pop up Helsingor and eat one of the hotdogs they sell at the entrance, then tell me how wonderful it was. Little pieces of onion ring on them and all of that. I miss them terribly.

Had maybe, not has. The 21 August 2004 schematic shows F2 as 10 amps. That matches the various manuals I've located (all over) my disk drive. I really do rely on the sharp eyes of you guys out there to keep me honest. I'm really good at making mistakes... Snatching defeat from the Jaws of Victory, our hero attempts to leap the curb in a single bound, but instead, falls flat on his face.

I rely heavily for feedback on those schematics to spot that which I've missed (or just plain f*&^(d up). I'll check that out. I DON'T have a peak reading DVM. Wished I did. Or a handheld oscilloscope. It's gotta be a wire. Somewhere. All of the other stuff mentioned is simply not on that fuse.

The fuse blows when I whack the throttle open but it doesn't need to be WFO to blow the fuse. I don't have a data logging DVM to take a peak voltage reading, but putting in a known good regulator should make a difference if the current regulator is bad. The different regulator makes no difference though. Whacking the throttle open with the bike on a stand does not blow the fuse, so I suspect that somewhere, there is a wire that moves under acceleration and shorts out. If Murphy is in loop as usual, that would be the coils, since they're in the most densely populated area of the frame and most difficult to deal with. Having said that, the culprit will probably be something REALLY weird like a bogus tachometer that puts an occasional high load on the ECU tach drive signal and makes the ECU crowbar. That shouldn't be possible of course, but I did say "really weird". That's a feeble attempt at humor folks, don't go speculating about tachs causing ECU problems unless you want to start a thread that's humor related because I don't think that such a thing is technically possible. I will check the TPS though. Again. And order a new one. BTW, I have changed the position of the ECU to either side up, plug orientation, jiggled and re-positioned all of the ECU wiring without affecting this fuse blowing problem. Maybe I should just sell it and buy a Breva 1100...

Hah! Made you look! Actually, FBB stands for "Fuse Blowing Bastard". Hopefully, I may someday find out what blows the ECU fuse when I whack the throttle open. As it stands right now, I've tried Dave Laings spare ECU in place of mine in case the ECU is the problem. Apparently not, the fuse still blows with either ECU. I installed auxiliary grounds on the ECU case and the regulator case. Fuse still blows. Swapped the regulator for the known good on the Sport 1100i. Fuse still blows. This leaves the wiring harness to swap out and the TPS. The weird part is - the bike runs really well - until the throttle is whacked open. Too weird.

That's pretty much it. Easier if the tank is mostly empty of course. Takes about 20-30 minutes for a ham-fisted mechanic like me. Hard is the filter on my 97 California. About 4 hours

More likely, MG did a poor job of surface treating in preparation for paint job. Every Guzzi I have has some flaking somewhere. The Sport 1100i's were notorious for the paint on the rim peeling off. Maybe it's just because the bikes are largely hand built and the handprints are still on the pieces on the way into the paint booth...

And of course Moto Guzzi just had to make those connections with the cheapo unreliable bullet connectors instead of with an Amp connector like everywhere else on the bike. And then, to add insult to injury, placed the connectors out of reach unless you remove the tank.

It's amazing what you can do with a roll of stainless safety wire. Fits in a tool bag just fine. Sounds like you ought to consider adding some to your mobile motorcycle repair shop repertoire.

Dave, thanks for letting me try your other ECU. It works just like mine, i.e., the fuse still blows. I suppose that's encouraging as it means that the problem lies elsewhere and not in the ECU. I'm going to have to swap a regulator out with one of the other bikes and see if it's just a flaky regulator. After that, the only thing left is literally the wiring harness. I did add some very nice heavy duty ground wires to both the regulator and ECU to preclude that specific type of problem, but that didn't cure anything.

I've heard Sean Faders Bubs on his Sport 1100i. NASCAR loud pretty much seems to define it. The aftermarket Dunstall type mufflers are also very loud, but the tone is positively stentorian. So deep, even on a V65, that you'd swear it was an old WWII bomber engine. The V65 ran truly horrible with that lack of pack pressure though, so off they came after one day.

The review is subscription only. I'm not interested in paying for a review.

That's the one. If it leaks, it isn't tight. I wonder just how it's secured.

I told you my memory of that was pretty dim. A flimsy casting could still be the cause though. You're a Sheriff's Deputy Joe, you don't smoke crack, you smoke the crack smokers...

You're in luck! Reboot Guzzi Spares. Click on "Spares", then click on the Sport 1100 photo and there is an Injected Sport rear box 11 items down "Drivebox inj model from £200.00". Email Pete Morcombe at pmorecombe@hotmail.com and tell him I sent you. Pete's a real good sort to do business with. The best part is he takes PayPal which is undoubtedly the easiest and most cost effective way to deal with obtaining anything from Europe (money transfers to Europe are absolutely Draconian and hideously expensive). I don't know if the carb sport box is compatible, but Pete can tell you. They're probably only cheaper because they're older.

Hey Mike. Here's some parts for your V11 Sport! eBay stuff Wait. That must be YOUR V11 Sport stuff.

Not compatible at all. Richard has a V11 Sport, this is a Sport 1100i. I don't think they even have the same number of splines. Gear ratios are wrong for a swap too, the V11 spins the shaft slower than the Sporti.

I'm not going to claim a perfect memory on this, it's been a long time since Joe's bike went to the shop and the transmission was disassembled. What I think I remember seeing (Failure #1) - at a glance - was what looked like a "peg" inside the side cover that was obviously bent down. I had assumed that it was a peg in a hole and that the hole had elongated. Looking at the sidecover illustration from the shop manual, the only thing that resembles a "peg" specifically is the eccentric shaft (part #9) that has something to do with limiting the shift pawl movement. I hope my memory is correct on that one, because the eccentric uses a threaded hole in the sidecove and I presume that a competent machinist would have little problem solving the problem despite the poor quality of casing material MG uses. Failure #2 is something else again. The shift fork selector wheel (or whatever it's called - I only have the illustrations, not the parts list/text) is circlipped to a shaft that is supported at one end in the side cover (part #12). Aside from the obvious engineering challenges of properly supporting a moving part at one end in a thin casting, I haven't heard of any other failures of this type. I'm going to make a couple of observations here that may have no merit whatsoever, but do give some food for thought. 1. Joe isn't a big guy, he isn't capable of Godzilla like foot stomps to the gear shift lever that could give rise to these kinds of failures. 2. This particular sidecover may just be a poor casting. When my transmission cases cracked in the accident, no welder in the Sacramento could effect repairs to the casting because of its porosity and poor material qualities. If this side cover is flimsy, then it is entirely possible that the end supported components, both the selector shaft and the eccentric shaft, could fail in normal usage. Who knows? 3. At some time the side cover may have been abused. Either at initial assembly at the factory, or to some extent during the repair of failure #1. The two failures are not at the same location, but the repair of failure number one would probably require the removal of the component at failure location #2 and the subsequent re-assembly may have contributed to failure #2. That would leave the reason for failure #1 unresolved. A. Personally, I'm going to go with Reason #2. Unfortunately, Joe's bike is well out of warranty and I doubt that MG (and especially MGNA) will accept any responsibility for a defective casting or replace it. However, if another side cover fails and locks up a transmission with the rider getting hurt - then a safety recall might ensue. B. Joe likes to be different. This places him well up the scale from the infrequent Scura clutch plate failure.