callison

Wait until you try to figure out a way to get the thing to work after you've yanked the brass insert clear out of the plastic. And no, you don't want to know what I did.

Nice road Jaap. Where's that one? I'll put it on my list...

Well Pete, a Daytona/Sport 1100i tank should fit on a V11 Sport just fine. The V11 tank fits on a Sport 1100i frame with no problem. That's what the "FrankenSport" has. You do lose some fuel capacity going to the earlier tank though unless you're modifying the bottom of the tank and running pods instead of airbox. FrankenSport is also running a full set of WP suspension from a Sport 1100i as well as porkchops. I just pitched the modified 96 carb sport timing chest cover for the real thing and a front seal that doesn't look like a potato chip. Now if I can just get the massive oil leak at the front of the transmission under control, the silly bike may be useful for more than holding down my garage floor in case of localized gravity outages.

7500 - 7800 typically. That's across two sport Guzzi's with about 85,000 miles total.

Here's a reasonably priced O2 sensor and interface. A bit less than the price I paid for a kit and includes the sensor. My kit didn't. Presumably this works as well. Can't say the same for my kit - haven't finished it yet. Daytona TwinTec They have a bit more information along the lines of this rather extensive thread. WEGO II Wide-band Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor System. Interesting to see that gas with ethanol causes slight errors. How much and what direction is not specified.

Well, I want to go to a few rallies this year - hopefully before I move to Oklahoma. Everytime I think the V11 Sport is ready to go, I have another major oil leak. Now it's the transmission again, which is a less than joyful thing to remove. Hopefully I can get to that tonight. This transmission just got the upgrade and the dealer probably did something wrong putting it back together (59 miles on bike since repair). He's no longer a Guzzi dealer though, so getting the problem rectified the proper way (warranty) is probably out of the question and I'll have to haul the damn thing 100 miles to a different dealer to get the leak fixed. Since the oil is coming out of the clutch bell housing, it almost certainly will be the front seal or pushrod seal. Either way, a really big nuisance. If I can get that resolved, and the bike back together - again - and it passes the teething stages without further problems, I'll try to schedule for a rally or two.

I'll believe the weak at the knees part, but get brain-fade??? The rubber chickens say you have a head start on that one

The tank can also shift to one side or the other a tad just from the clumps of wiring under the front of the tank so if you've had the tank off to futz with wiring, that can do it as well. My forks hit the tank too, but I have a frame from an earlier model (96 Sport) and it's not the same. I wound up using JB Weld to adhere a flat washer to the face of the stop. That worked. Ideally, the stop should never (as in accident) have to actually stop the fork movement energetically, so the washer will probably stay on there indefinitely.

Titanic

Too big and too heavy. How about too small and too week? I've got an 84 V65C I'll let you have for $1500. PO was a female and the Corbin saddle and stuff are simply not sized for my frame. I bought it so my daughter could learn to ride, but she decided the traffic where we live is simply too vicious for a beginner. I can't say I disagree, it's one of the reasons I'm retiring early and getting the hell out of California. But I still have to get rid of some bikes, and this one has to go.

I've always just snugged it up by feel. Never stripped one. The aluminum washer isn't good for more than about five years of it though, cheapskate that I am.

I'm getting the sense that perhaps the most viable combination is a fully optimized map with an O2 sensor that can only affect a small percentage of change to the map in accordance with longer term variables such as gas octane, humidity or altitude etc. I think Cliff initially had his O2 sensing to use a max of 10% change but that would probably be too much for a known optimized map. That's not too surprising. Not many of us have the funds/time to accomodate a number of tuning schemes for comparison. I do have a Sport 1100i and a V11 Sport, both with stock and Cliff computers. Neither bike is fully functional at the moment and neither of the Cliff computers have the necessary software updates, or I'd offer to let you experiment with one of those bikes for comparison purposes. At least I'm almost local to you - 90 miles. I had the V11 Sport running with either computer just 4 days ago, but last night it left a fairly large puddle of transmission oil on the floor so I'm contemplating the disassembly of it again. If you didn't mind oil all over the place during a dyno run... The Sport 1100i currently has Mike Rich Stage 2 heads with dual plugging (ignition coils not installed though) which would certainly foul the evaluation although I have a set of stock heads as well (condition supposedly good but unknown). Neither bike is currently fitted for O2 sensors. Oddly enough, the existence of the two bikes with Cliff computers makes for an interesting possibility of comparison. Cliff very likely uses the same program in both computers for either model of bike - only the maps should differ. I'm not certain you could say the same for the WM1.6 (Sport 1100i) vs the WM1.5 (V11 Sport) because they sure don't act the same. The WM1.5 is actually a pretty sweet little ECU, the WM1.6 is decidedly working for the dark side of the force.

Bring your bike up to Modesto. This is the only place I know of where spitting your gum into the street is considered "Road Repair". I completely blew out the shocks on my California on the road to my neighborhood in only 11,000 miles. "Patches??? We don'ts need no stinkin' patches!!!".

I rather suspect that a potentiometer will only reduce the amplitude to the point where the unit won't trigger. I would opt for an optical trigger from an interrupter disk bolted to the front of the alternator. Far more flexible approach. Someone is making one know for the older Guzzis, but I can't remember where I saw it.

There were some errors in some diagrams at http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/sportissimo.html, notably, the Sport 1100i and V11 Sport schematics. Added the Quota ES as well.

Okay Dave, I've fixed the V11 Sport diagram. I must have decided to clean it up and swapped some relay stuff around. Yech. What a disaster.

And back to the further travails of "FrankenSport". Changed the front engine case for the correct one and put in the new seal (great fun!). Then discovered that I had three oil leaks, not two. Damn! The torn breather hose was #1, the deformed old seal was #2 and somewhere in the front of the transmission... there's another. And not a small one either. A liberal puddle has formed on the lower engine case and under the bike. For those of you that have actually taken one of these bikes to that point, are there any shortcuts to just extracting the transmission? I've already had this bike down to the frame once and frankly, I don't want to go to that length again if I can avoid it.

FWIW, it's the center one. With luck, it will also have a magnet to catch errant ferrous stuff. The plug is left over from the earlier Sport design that had two spine drain lines down to the sump. In 1999, MG decided to only use on spine drain line, hence the blank plug.

HD has been around for some 100+ years, but for the last 50 or so has only sought to build cruiser bikes (and quite successfully, so don't sneer). Now, they've made this great leap forward (or rearward if you're referring to the foot controls). At their current rate of progress, they should have a normal street bike about the year 2035.

Shouldn't there be a caveat to that? As in, "When properly set up", because if you've ever ridden a 97-98 Sporti that's even slightly out of whack, you'd be massively disappointed. Even set properly for stock operation, they're a little more than just cranky. The potential is there thought, as it should be in an EFI system with quality components.

Rennsport exhaust article Hey Dave! This is for you man. I draw no conclusions except that Bos no longer makes one for Guzzi's anymore and Rennsport is long, long gone...

I did away with the red entirely. I really, really like that red the 2002 LeMans had though. Actually, it was pretty disconcerting. On the way up to Yosemite National Park with Al and bunch of the other semi-local Guzzisti a few years back, the sun kept glancing off of the red LeMans behind me and when I glimpsed it in my mirror, I thought it was the red light of a Highway Patrol cruiser. I must have gotten that impression a half dozen times. It was just plain frightening. A lovely color...

Are you kidding? We'll never get close to the number of posts that Al has!

Dang Dave. You're probably right. The schematic for the catalytic sport is probably more correct. Something more to fix...

The fuse blows when the throttle is opened a lot to accelerate. Fuse size is 5A. I don't know what the instantaneous current into the coils is Cliff, but I would bet the ECU needs just a little bit more than a quarter amp fuse