callison

Probably the one for a proper DVD. I don't even know what DivX is although I'm certain I could find a way to use it. Currently I have a 2x2Ghz Macintosh G5 with 2.5Gb memory and enough hardware to burn a DVD, just never bothered to learn how to do it. This woulld be a good opportunity to get my head out of the mud and learn how.

I've been out of town and lost track on this thread. Who do I ask to get the FTP site? Please email me off list. Thanks.

If it doesn't right off, grab the rear edge of the seat/cowling and lift up and forward bending the seat base a tad (it's plastic, no problem). Sometimes I have to do that to mine and if there's very much under the seat, I definitely have to do this little dance to make it open.

In reference to the transmission mounting plate: The part mentioned was from the Sport 1100i. This part will not fit the V11 Sport - the mounting holes are about 1 centimeter off center because the Sport 1100i engine is mounted 1.4 centimeters to the right to accommodate the wider rear tire section. The plate would make a good start for a new pattern and one of these days, I'll do that, try it out, and make a report. But not now - too many irons in the fire.

Multi spark ignitions have been around awhile. MSD Products I think you'd be hard put to fit any of this product line on Guzzi, much less have the current capacity to keep it running. Still, wandering around on the their site is a fascinating look into the automotive end of thnigs.

Leaks oil. Jeez... ya think??? Never underestimate the ability of a cracked crankcase recirc hose to dump oil all over your bike at 80 mph. Try two quarts in 25 miles.

Everything else seems to have beaten to death, so I'll add to the confusion. Sears, CostCo and a bunch of other places have been selling hydraulic ATV/Motorcycle lifts for a while now. How well do they work? Mechanically - just fine. For Guzzis with funny sump shapes (late model sport types) and others, passable providing you strap the bike to the stand securely. I say this because I now have two bikes with broken fins on the sump. The hydraulic ATV lifts can be had for as little as $50 (Harbor Tool and Freight - on sale). I have two, one from CostCo in the $90 category and one from Harbor Freight in the $50 category. Both are made in PRC but from different manufacturers. The CostCo one is broader, but not as well built as the Harbor freight one for nearly half the price. The CostCo stand also does not lift as high. Either one is functionally identical to the other. Both of them could use a little help handling Guzzis. http://www.dunwelllifts.com/Buy.html Offers a good solution, although they're a bit pricy. Both operate best from the side of the bike opposite the side stand. Both are a tad difficult to use with just one person until the technique if perfected for getting them in place. Depending upon the spacing of the lift frame bolts, the Dunwell stand adaptors may have to be modified to accomodate the bolt spacing. If you buy a Dunwell lift, that won't be a problem, but I think the Harbor Freight model is nearly a perfect fit. Hard to tell, I had already elongated the holes to fit the CostCo stand. There's one for California models. It is extremely well built. And one for V11 Sport type Guzzi's. A little shakey, but functional. While not flimsy, it is a little awkward to use because the posts that fit up under the frame have to be put in place after the stand is positioned. At least the one post on the low side of the bike anyway. Note that the manufacturers picture show the posts with the U-shaped part in the outward position. This is supposed to be the same lift position as that used on the factory V11 Stand. Since the posts are a somewhat loose fit, I don't recommend following the instructions provided with the stand (such as they are). Turning the posts inboard puts them inside of the "porkchops" on the frame. Not perfect since the spacing is a tad wide, but better than having the bike slip off the post a they can splay out to a wider width then the long engine mount bolt they're supposed to rest on. The inboard position also allows for removing that bolt for maintenance. I thought it would be possible to leave both Dunwell stands bolted to the same hydraulic lift, so I cut some slots in the bottom edge of the Dunwell stands to clear the bolts on the lift. It didn't work. I bought a second lift. Problem solved, and now I can move two bikes anywhere I need in the garage with very little fuss. Dunwell adaptors: Pros. California model a very well thought out and constructed unit. V11 Sport works well when used carefully. Cons: Expensive. Neither has great paint. V11 Sport model should be used with care as it doesn't fit as well and suffers some poor fit in the post receptacles. Modification may be required to fit various models of hydraulic jacks. Pit Bull stands. http://www.pit-bull.com/ If you've ever seen one, you know you've seen the Rolls Royce of stands. Pros: Extremely well built. If you have a V11 Sport, be sure to order the wider rear stand. There are two or more versions for the front of bikes. I have the first one. Faultless, fits 4 out of 5 of my Guzzi's and it will probably fit that one too if I ever put it back together. Cons: Expensive. Swingarm tends to slide up on the stand. For a V11 Sport with the radical tapering of the swingarm towards the pivot point, this can present a problem with the bike sliding off of the stand. (I put hose clamps on the swingarm, adjuster side down, that keeps the swingarm from sliding.

You'll also need all of the headlight bits in addition to the sub-frame and so forth. A good source is Reboot Guzzi Spares UK. You've got a bit of trimming to do for any fairings off any earlier sports. The V11 Sport gas tank is several inches wider than previous models. That same tank also sits lower over the spine, so fabricating some sort of support for the aft end of the fairing is necessary and looks to be a bit tricky. It's also going to be verrrrryyyyy tight, again, because of the wider tank. I'm in the process of doing exactly that for an early Daytona fairing. I just haven't screwed up the courage to go out into the cold garage and get started. If your 2000 model doesn't have the fairing mount lugs on the front of the frame, you'll have to get those welded on as well. The stock instrument panel will not fit. Period. You'll need to find something to take it's place. They can be found used, but there is an outfit in Germany that sells a replacement that comes with an oil temperature gauge - although I think that's overkill on these beasts. Mirrors may or may not be a problem depending upon whether you want to use the stock ones that Guzzi used. They're not that great of mirror according to some, (I like 'em) and tend to droop badly after a few years of bike vibration acting on the ball joint. We should exchange notes as we head into our separate experiments. I haven't got my scanner hooked up presently, or I'd just post a gif of the parts. And if you haven't viewed this thread: after market fairings

Consider two single cylinder ECU's, each with an optimized map for their specific cylinder. The only thing really in common is the housing, the timing signal and the power supply. Simple enough?

I was going to try the MY15M next after getting the V11 Sport running, but I ran into some difficulties with oil blowing all over me. To the tune of about 2 quarts at 80 mph! Dang breather hose was torn nearly 3/4 of the way around at the top. What a miserable piece of work to get at. Maybe this coming Monday when I get off of the weekend shift. Get the bike running, then experiment. Then swear. Then fix the bike. Then try it again. More swearing... Uh... Guys. Don't forget to change your fork oil regularly. 40,000 miles = $450 fork tube re-chroming + a huge dealer charge for seals and labor. About half the list cost of a new set of forks. The Sport 1100i always seems to have issues, poor thing.

150 mv is the setting the for 16M computers on the 96-98 Sport 1100i's. It doesn't work very well on them and obvicously works a whole worse on the 15M computer. The V11 Sport is more like 525 mv at it's preferred setting. Since I'm not absolutely certain what the optimum voltage is for the V11 Sport, I will defer to those that know better, but for now, return yours to the 475 mv setting before you damage your engine.

I seem to recollect that folding pegs were required for racing back in the early days to avoid chewing up the track surface when the bike went down.

#1 is it alright. Fits every Goose in my garage. You may have to hit it with some sandpaper though as some Guzzi triple trees are a tad tight.

This year, MG had the most bikes I've ever seen at their booth. I would guess though, that some of them were stock from local dealers. Not a single LeMans thouogh. I didn't take a count of anything, but there were at least two Breva 750's, two Nevada 750's, a stone of some sort, a touring Stone model of some sort (obviously, my interest lies elsewhere), a Ballabio, a Fast by Ferraci V11 Sport and the three show specials of future productions. There may have been more, but I kept getting distracted by the pneumatic blond Aprilia brolly girl.

New model release dates - maybe MGS01 Corsa sort of now Breva 1100 2005 Griso 2007 MGS01 street version ( if ever) 2008 BTW. The Girso looks much better in person. I like the metallic sand color. Dislike the exhaust. Breva 1100 looks good too. Nice engine colors - not bubbly black for sure. MGS01 is a work of art. If you can get close, check out the welds on the exhaust pipes. Poetry in welding. Really impressed by the Aprilia and Moto Guzzi Brolly Girls. And after all of that, the Urals impressed me most. Go figure...

I used a heat gun aimed at the "underside" of the diks. About four minutes heating up the hub and the disk together worked fine for 11 out of 12 bolts. Naturally, it's always the last one that has to be drilled out...

I dunno. Ya gonna offer him Canadian?...

If Dave sells his LeMans, he isn't going to need his spiffy jacket. Now's your chance Al, make him an offer...

Sounds like the clutch interlock connectors under the tank. Turning the handlebars forces some movement from throttle cables, front end wiring and so forth and that in turn, jiggles the connectors. This wouldn't be the first time for something like this either. The two connectors are some of the cheesy bullet connectors located under the left front side of the tank. They're depicted as #59 on the following schematic. 1999 V11 Sport schematic. Just above and to the right of the sidestand relay. They're probably just loose but may also have a bit of surface corrosion on them. Just pull them apart a few times and re-insert them. If they feel at all loose, gently squeeze the female side with some pliers to tighten them up. Hopefully, that's all that your problem is. It's a cheap fix, but it does require removing the tank.

Antonio, the Bosch relays are the good ones. Most of the relay specific failures have been the Siemens.

Actually, unplugging the electric fuel valve is all that is required. The valve won't open without some applied voltage. If it makes you feel better, remove fuse F1.

It would not be inconceivable to take an MGS01 Corsa and put V11 Sport barrels, heads, cam, ECU, smog stuff and so forth on it, get it registered in California after proving that all of the smog stuff is identical to the current approved model and then take it all off and revert it to the large bore kit. Personally, I'd revert it to the 1000cc Daytona stock stuff in the hopes that it would survive a bit longer. You couldnt go straight to the 1000cc Daytona RS spec and get it smogged because that was a 97 model and this bike would have a build date a half a decade later. California and the Feds would never approve it.

I don't think you have to pull the forks to change the cam. I think all you have to remove is the front wheel and fender. Somewhere, there's a thread on this...

I didn't drop the engine so much as lift the frame off. Basically, I put a piano dolly under the engine and then removed the wheels and lowered the frame and engine onto the dolly. Then I unbolted everything and lifted the spine off of the engine. This was for a complete disassembly of the bike, but it's somewhat the same approach others have taken when lifting the frame clear with straps from the ceiling etc. But... one has to ask. Why are you dropping the engine? Unless you have clutch problems or want to work on the transmission, there are no maintenance reasons I'm aware of that require this level of effort. Not many people here "regularly" drop their engines. As far as weight goes, I wound up picking up one end or the other of the engine several times, but never the entire thing. Getting a little too old for that...

Of course it's overkill, but my wife said I couldn't buy another Guzzi with the insurance money, so I insisted on a top of the line computer. I prefer Macs, so that's what I got. Then, she saw a V11 LeMans and regretted the decision, but by then, it was too late.