callison

Well, you know, Santa Claus had to find something faster than that old sleigh...

Any thing I order from MGNA, I figure five months - unless it's in stock, then it might be ten days or ten weeks.

I'm with you there Jason. I like a single round headlight the best. Square is okay. The twin bug eyes on the Triump Speed Triple reminds me of the sicko robot in "Saturn 3" and the Salvadore Dali droopy glass things the Italians are putting on everything are simply fugly. Here's the original concept drawing for the V11 LeMans.

Not exactly an idle threat, I have the lowers on order. I already have the fairing, front sub-frame, headlight and mirrors. Now I have to work up an instrument mount and some sort of bracket for the mirror part of the fairing, since the early Daytona fairing mounts a bit differently than the Sport 1100i/Daytona RS types. Then it's off to the paint shop, and the wheels off to the powder coater. I do have a spare Daytona RS fairing if you're interested. If you want to go that route, contact Pete Morcombe at http://www.rebootguzzispares.com/. That's where I got a mount from, but since it was for the Euro headlight, it had to be modified. I don't know what types of mounts he has, but he does have several Sport 1100's in his pile of parts. Those fairings are generally trashed tough. There are other options. If you want awkward, I also have a Vesco Rabid Transit fairing that's intended for my California. I can't image that on a V11 Sport. Guess I'll have to try that too just to see how ridiculous it would look. I got the Sport 1100 fairing and the Rabid Transit fairing from eBay. It pays to keep your eyes open. The early Daytona fairing was obtained through the classifieds on either MGNOC or Wild Guzzi, I don't recall which. This (was) a 2001 V11 Sport TT (black tank and seat cover, silver bodywork every where else, one of 15 put together by MGNA for the U.S. market). A year ago, it was totalled when my neighbor backed out of his driveway at a pretty good clip and I smacked into his Toyota Camry removing the bumper and mangling the bike pretty good. I got some some scrapes and a really interesting brake lever shaped bruise on my right foot and some trachea damage from the helmet strap. Nothing serious. But the bike... Ah well. Let me just say that if you hit something with a V11 Sport, you should remove the tank and give the spine a seriously intense inspection. Any bend at all and the bike is toast as the damage migrates through a lot of places in the frame, engine and transmission. It may not be readily apparent, but a few more thousand miles of riding will reveal numerous problems. I had already taken the insurance payoff and the pink slip for the bike (no salvage title either!). I wished I hadn't, I could have easily bought a Corsa Rossa model. Well, maybe, but the wife decreed no more bikes, so I bought a Dual 2Ghz G5 Macintrash with the 23" monitor instead. But I digress. The V11 Sport was brought back to like September 22, 2004 with a trip down the block. The registration has expired and I don't have the mirrors or horns on it, but other than that, it's whole again. But it's whole with a whole different twist. WP suspension fore and aft, 1996 Sport 1100i spine modified for the V11 Sport swingarm. The frame is powder coated silver. Sport 1100i silver sideplates grace the bike this week, since I stripped the threads out of the original swingarm mount plates during reassembly. They were powder coated black along with the billet rear brake lever and shift lever (I have a spare of each too, going on the theory that if you have it, you'll never need it - which means I should never crash again!!! Yeah, right...) There are a LOT of differences requiring modification to component mounts, steering head lock (the V11 Sport triple tree has 1 cm less trail, making it an interference fit with the steering lock on the Sport 1100i frame - out with hacksaw and file!). I used up every explitive in my vocabulary more times than I want to think about. It was a very frustrating experience. Never again. At the same time as this, I also got my 97 California back together (18 months downtime) and my 97 Sport 1100i running (badly - 2 years downtime) and the V65C modified for real handlebar switches and throttle setup instead of the cheesy crap the MG put on them. All in all, a busy year. Now, after the lengthy missive above, you can see (approximately), what a V11 Sport would look like with a Sport 1100 fairing (very nearly the same as a Daytona RS fairing) and an early MG Daytona fairing (way different), followed by a VERY nice Sport 1100 with an early daytona fairing with the aftermarket lowers. The fourth picture is from the Megola web site. They have some unbelievable weight measurements for their bike, but it sure is a beaut. I like the paint job and I'm going to copy it. I have no idea what kind of fairing they have, but it would also look great on a V11 Sport. The plan is to do the same fairing setup on the V11 Sport. This is one that I definitely do not want to drop. We're talking nearly $3000 worth of fairing and paint job. It's a tart. It really is. Except for Mistral cans, the drivetrain is stock. It might get pods and for certain the Cliff Jeffries My15M is going to be run through it's paces on this bike, but it's a poseur for sure. The good stuff is on the 97 Sport. Stage II MRM heads, eventually a stroker crank (got that), bigger bore (got the cylinders, need the pistons), probably Carillo rods, Ti pushrods and a cam. It's a hobby (and like a boat, it's something you pour money into). or Extending the Daytona fairing scheme, picture a V11 Sport in this livery... with this painit job... Nice possibility I think. Check out some of the fairings at Das Mototec (click on the Produkte menu and select "verkleidungen"). You can also page through Stein-Dinse's offerings Stein-Dinse

The Daytona fairing is a go. I think there are still some lowers available as well, so I'll look into ordering them as well. I have the front sub-frame, headlight, windshield and mirrors as well, but brackets for the mirrors and the rear ears of the fairing will have to be fabricated as well as instrument mounts and the glove compartment lid, which is missing.

Money. I'm pretty much out of the stuff at this point. Nice though an aluminum swingarm would be, the bike would still be heavy enough to not benifit from a cost standpoint. Oz wheels would be a better choice for the money and I can't afford those either. Marchesini's are okay, this is just going to be a street bike tarted up a tad.

Just playing around while waiting for my replacement porkchop to arrive. or If this were on the side of a breakfast cereal box... How many things can you spot on this bike that are not stock? (more at the bottom) Extending the Daytona fairing scheme, picture a V11 Sport in this livery... with this painit job... Nice possibility I think. Answers to the question. Well... it looks pretty much stock except for the frame paint. In fact, the frame is a 1996 Sport 1100i with the necessary changes to accommodate the V11 Sport swingarm. All of the suspension components are WP's, also from a Sport 1100i - which necessitated using the older style Brembo calipers (400mm) instead of the stock ones. It's a bastard V11 Sport, so it will be interesting to see how it handles with the extra 1 degree of rake but with the shorter trail of the V11 Sport instead of that of the Sport 1100i. Also notice the Dunwell Jacks V11 Sport adaptor for the hydraulic lift. I now have two lifts, the other has the adaptor for the California frames. Both work pretty well and just a whole bunch better than balancing the bikes on the standard hydralic ATV lift.

This just got posted to the world (3 other boards), but Neronut deserves the credit for spotting the error. Try as I might, I can't catch every error the first time out. It has been pointed out to me that the turn signal wiring on the schematics for the two variants of V11 Sport that I have posted on my web page are incorrect. They have been corrected and if you've downloaded them in the past, you should replace them with the corrrected version. BTW. The errors are on the original schematic, so all I did was repeat them. My thanks to the sharp eyed afficionados at the v11lemans.com web site. Now, will someone with a 2004 V11 Sport tell me whether MG has REALLY left the generator light off of the new models? It sure isn't on the schematic I used to draft from. Left and Right turn signals instead. Maybe this is progress... http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematics/2004_EV.gif

I'm of the opinion (cough, cough, smirk...), that they aren't "false" neutrals at all. I think Moto Guzzi puts 'em there on purpose. Every bike ships with at least 3 extra neutral positions to make up for the sporadic operation of the neutral light switch. Actually, just changing the shift lever for a more downward angle will alleviate a lot of the upshift problems.

Good grief!!! You're absolutely right! And guess what? It's like that on the original schematic I have as well as the one for the 2004 catalytic model. This is why it's invaluable to have others spot these mistakes so I can fix them. Moto Guzzi sure doesn't seem to catch these errors... Thanks. I'll fix them soon.

It's not all that hard to pry off the cover of the electric petcock, chip away the epoxy, solder the wires and then insulate them RTV rubber. Cheap too. The Valeo starters are good enough, providing you never overheat them, then they turn to crap and have to be replaced or rebuilt. Generally replaced. I once rebuilt one using the carcass of a new starter for a Saturn. More work than it's worth though as you have to rebuild the end cap to reverse the polarity to the brushes so it will turn the right direction.

I'm not aware of any aftermarket items, MGNA probably doesn't have them in stock, if they do, they'll probably still take forever and they are sure to be quite steep on the price. So you might want to contact Pete Morcombe at: rebootguzzispares@hotmail.com www.rebootguzzispares.com

Just hazarding a guess here, but probably, both tach and speedometer get some moisture intrusion. But, the speedometer had the trip reset stem opening as a vent where the tach doesn't. Since this sounds logical, it's probably incorrect.

I got used to mine too. Until the rust detached the case mounts...

Having had two accidents on new rear tires when just pulling away from stop signs, I definitely urge caution when breaking in new tires. What I do now when I mount new tires is take an electric pad sander to the tire tread and remove the sheen. This doesn't remove enough material (next to nothing in fact) to affect tire life, but it sure does make for peace of mind.

It's always more pleasant to fool around with someone elses hardware if they're willing. To that effect, I have a couple of V11 Sport fork tubes that could be used for a lesson on oil changes. One is severely damaged and good only for fooling around with, but the other is still usable as a lesson piece. Anyone up for demonstrating fork oil changes. I even have a couple of spare Sport 1100i clipons that could be used in a vice to hold the fork.

Sport 1100i parted out in France I don't know if this engine is still available. There are some differences between the Sport 1100i engine.The front engine cases have different off-set for the engine mounts, so they would have to be swapped. The right side cylinder barrel is also different and would also have to be swapped. Other than that, I believe they're pretty much the same except that the V11 Sport has better heads and higher compression and if the V11 Sport heads (and hopefully pistons) are undamaged, you would want to swap them as well. The alternative would be a new or used case and some Carillo rods. Here's the URL of my favorite breaker. Reboot Guzzi Spares

Yep. I now tie a loop of wire or somethiing around the end of the swing arm on both sides that is looped around the stand "ears". I'm considering some hose clamps on the swingarm to give a permanent purchase point. As an aside, I have a hydraulic lift, and it has dropped both my California and the V11 Sport at one time or another with damage to the fins on the sump as a result. Not to mention that lifting a bike out of the center of the damn thing is tantamount to inviting a hernia. Today I ordered the California and V11 adaptors from Dunwell Lifts for the hydraulic lift. As you can see, the V11 adaptor works on the same lift points for the Sport as the factory stand. I'll let you all know how well it works after it has arrived.

Oh yeah. This is for Nemo and the others. Jens at guzzitech.dk has a pretty well drawn set of schematics for his Guzzi (not a V11, but it won't matter when you look) done up as a .pdf document. The point here is, that he went through all of the effort to break the wiring down into ladder schematics etc (something I won't do...). It's a tremendously good document and although it isn't of a current bike, it does present everything in a much more understandable format then the original schematics. Once you've followed his breakdown through, you'll have a much better idea of what's going on with the electrics. guzzitech.dk]guzzitch.dk LM2 schematic.pdf

Thanks for pointing out the ommisions and additions Docc. I've fixed them and uploaded the corrected images to my web site. Without the help of you guys that find these errors, I wouldn't have been able to do what I've done.

Okay Mike, I'll bite. You're the master mechanic here and I would appreciate an explanation. thanks

Sounds like you got the gas from the bottom of the gas station tank. Some water is generally at the bottom. That happened to a car I had one time so bad, I had to have the tank pumped. Twice. Because I used the same station a week later and had it happened again. Since the water can hang around in the tank for a while, you should use up as much of the tank as you can and then drain the rest into your lawn mower or something. Not your Mini.

If the JB Weld will adhere to the plastic, it would be worth a try. JB Weld will not adhere to rubber - as in re-attaching the ECU rubber mount studs on a Sport 1100i...

I've had both sides break. While I was waiting for the back ordered right side (how the hell does MGNA manage that anyhow?), I made a temporary bracket out of 3/16 ABS plastic. It held for two months before breaking. After that I used coat hanger wire until MGNA eventually supplied a new part. At $8 each, I wasn't about to pursue the warranty issue for fear that the part would be delayed an extra year or two. The brackets are still fine although I've basically broken the entire rest of the bike.