callison

With that many sizes, these aren't going to help a bunch. DAS Mototec, under Produkte: Fahrwerk

Hey Paul, wasn't the swingarm on the earlier models narrower as well? The engine mount points on the timing cover are wider on the earlier bikes though. Something that I discovered to my dismay while putting the V11 Sport back together with a cover from a carb sport. I had to hack saw the mounts .5cm on each side. There isn't enough material there for the engine mounts to survive a lot of riding use, so I've ordered the correct cover. Progress is pretty slow though, as I seem to missing at least one part in every box that I put things in. Disturbingly, the 2004 Toyota Prius in the background gets better mileage than the bikes with a lot less hassle. That sort of negates the "advantages" of motorcycles when you're explaining to the missus that you'd like to "pick up just one more bike to add to the collection"...

Sorry. Every time someone mentions vent, I think of the vent at the back of the transmission case. The thing at the bottom of the clutch housing is probably more of a drain semantically speaking. Be glad it's only the seal although getting at it is a tremendous pain in the ass. FWIW, on the 2002's, which is not what you have, the factory painted the cases - including the holes and bores where there were seals and case bolts etc. The painted surface let oil past where there where bolts, and provided an inferior surface for the seals to work with, so there were a lot of 2002's that had various leaking spots. Possibly, because things don't all change at the same time on the production line, you got a case with a painted bore and the seal has unseated as a result. Equally probable, is the possibility that the seal is simply not seated correctly or that the seal itself has taken exception to the use of the super slippery lubricant and has started to leak. I don't think the seal materials themselves react to the lubricant, but the fit of the seal may be the compromised to the point where the super lubricity of the Redline allows it to seep past. Unfortunately, oil in the clutch housing will eventually contaminate the plates. Engine oil you can somewhat rinse off, but I'm not certain about the Redline. In the USA, the clutch plates will set you back more than $200 for the pair, so I would suggest biting the bullet and having the transmission yanked before the plates can get contaminated. Hopefully, you're under warranty, the dealer is good and will honor the warranty and that MGNA will also honor the warranty. That's like hoping for a home run when the bases are loaded, the pitcher can throw a 110 mph curve ball and the batter is blind in one eye with a bad arm and a gimp leg, but that's how it goes.

No regulator, no charge. No charge, voltage falls. Voltage falls, electronics quit. All electronics, PC3's included. I had a 2.7 mile push down a road to a phone when my regulator failed. There are times when OEM equipment is best left to gather dust. You might want to consider the Electrex USA regulator, which, at least in the USA, is a whole lot less expensive then the Ducati Electronica reliability challenged piece of hardware. There. Wasn't I polite phrasing that? Electrex USA RR51 for Moto Guzzi's

The vent is much higher than the input or output seal, if you see fluid that high up, why would you assume it's the seal? Plus, the input seal is at the clutch end of the transmission, so you would never see a leak from there at the rear. You might have: A bit of blow out the vent. A loose clutch actuator so lubricant is seeping past (and the Redline is VERY slippery). A cracked transmission case (I did, nearly the same spot). A porous transmission case. Something else weirdly Guzzi in nature.

I scanned the actual plate, took some measurements and then used Canvas to pull the other dimensions, spacing, angles etc. I have some reservation about the absolute accuracy though. That last hundredth of a millimeter on most measurements is far more likely to be rounded up to the nearest tenth as a production measurement. Scanners and absolute dimensional accuracy are not necessarily a reliable combination. Do with it what you will. I am finding out waaayyyyy too many things in the process of trying to put the V11 Sport back together. The latest is the timing case cover. I bought a 96 Sport one (cheap - $85), wound up having to mill off the bottom fins to clear the oil cooler feeds - and then found out the upper engine mounts are actually 1 cm wider on the carb sports than the later models. If I have that half centimeter milled off on each side, there won't be enough material left to be reliable. Now I have to wait for yet another part from MGNA which will be very expensive (~$340) and possibly not in stock. Time will tell. Other than that, I think I'm ready to put it all back together again. Does anyone need a timing case cover for an early model Sport? It's not like I haven't been doing anything related to Guzzi's over the winter months though. I did manage to get a total of 40 schematics for Guzzis up on my web page. Minor fame, no fortune.

Well, so much for me being the smart guy. If you have voltage on the red/black wire that pretty much leaves the connector for the handlebar controls. Normally, I would say it's the headlight connector itself at this point (mine was) but since you said the horn also does not work, that leaves the connector for the handlebar controls or the controls themselves. That's the only place where both the horn and headlight have a common tie in. The probability of a bad ground on a Guzzi is actually always quite high, but the horn and headlights do not share the same ground so I would not expect that to be the problem, but then again, it's a Guzzi so anything is possible.

Well, I don't think you're going to be able to run down to your local hardware store and buy and D238. If you have a friend in the elevator repair business in the USA, you might be able to get ahold of some D238 through him. Some manufacturers use it for their counterweights. It only takes a thin layer of paint to restrain the alpha emissions. I get a secret grin every time I think of the anti nuke crowd riding in elevators counter balanced by the very materials that they protest against. As far as the original lead shot abraded into powder post goes. Lead dust is pretty deadly stuff, and as a dust, it should be treated as a hazardous material. Have your Fire Department hazardous material crew come and clean it up and dispose of it, otherwise, find some way to melt it back into a larger solid piece. Don't dispose of it (especially dust) in the household trash - you won't be doing Mother Earth any favors and she may sic a landslide on one of your favorite roads. Lead shot should be thoroughly matrixed in silicone rubber or something to prevent the abrasion problem.

You also lost your brake light. The power for the headlight, brake lights and horn are supplied by a red/black wire coming out of the headlight relay. Check that and if there is no voltage there under any condition, but there is voltage on the green/white wire on the same relay, replace the relay. Otherwise, check that the sidestand switch is actuating correctly. If it is ,then replace the starter relay. Even I don't completely understand the convoluted sidestand interlock set-up on the late model sports - and I've got 41 Moto Guzzi schematics I've re-drafted sitting on my web page. Guess I'm gonna have to sit down an make a logic flow chart one of these days...

The stock batteries have more than enough cranking power, it's inherent in the design if they're Hawker Odyssey or similar batteries. They do die though, I've cracked the cases on two, possibly from using the wrong type of charger. Originally, they Odyssey batteries ran $168, so at the current market price of $100 or thereabouts, they're at least reasonable (cheaper than an MGNA clutch lever or some other way over priced replacement part). Not necessarily cheap, but reasonable by comparison.

Given the porosity of Guzzi's rather poor castings, the paint might be the only thing holding the oil in there...

You mechanic obviously failed the electrical section of his mechanics course. This may be confusing stuff, but it is not that difficult. Dig into the wiring and write down what their "fix" actually is hooked to (we may have to follow the logic of it to see if they did any damage) and then rip their stupid "fix" out. Meanwhile, replace the relays, or at least swap a few around. If the problem persists after the relay replacement, we'll trouble shoot the beast. If we get to that point, you will need to get a meter and print the schematic if possible. Don't worry, we'll get you through it. Surely for less than $75/hr! (my going rate is a beer and some good conversation if we should ever meet, probably the same for everyone else here as well. I'm due to go out to Rochester Mn. for two weeks in June sometime, but I don't think you want to wait that long). Replace the wiring harness??? Sheesh... this guy ain't a mechanic.

Well, there are at least quicker/cheaper alternatives to ordering parts through our nemises MGNA. Go to your local Ducati dealer. Take your front brake lever along so they can sell you the right one (they use to different pivot pin sizes, I think we use just the large one). Ducati foot pegs for the Monster fit the MG just fine (made by the same company from the looks of it) but will require some filing to deepen the slot for the MG style spring. It would be worth taking a look at the Ducati spring to see it using that would be easier rather than modifying the footpeg. In any event, the Ducati footpeg is about half the cost of the MG one and is very likely to be in stock - as is the brake lever. Ducati's tend to get thrown down roads more often than MG's... Email "Pete Morcombe" and tell him you need the rear brake lever for a V11/Sport 1100. That plus shipping is about half as much as new and about 4-6 months quicker than MGNA. It helps to have PayPal for this, believe me. Very much more convenient. DO NOT throw away your old shift lever. The bolt on linkage extension plate is unique to the V11 Sport based series, but not the Sport 1100's. You'll need that part if he sells you a lever off of a Sport 1100. The Buell turn signals such as part number "Y0504.02A8 TURN SIGNAL, RH/FRONT, LH/REAR" will fit the V11 Sport as a complete unit, but it's a bit of a pain to make it work. Good thing you only have to do it once. The MG type bolts to the mount. The Buell type has a stud type base that you have to put a nut on the backside of, which is difficult to do on the V11 Sport turn signal mount casting. I think you have to drill the hole out a tad, but I've forgotten how I did it because it was so long ago. But it can be done and for about $6, it's a pretty cheap alternative and at least the new one won't break as easy even if it does sag just a little bit. The nut does not come with the turn signal either, be sure to purchase those as well when you buy the turn signal. The stock V11 Sport mirrors are great for looking at your shoulders and vibrating, but not much else (although they do work pretty good on my V65C). Get some Napolean bar end types, but mount them the Mike Stewart way. I didn't find a posted picture of them after a quick search, perhaps someone else on the forum will provide. The Napoleans are cheap! I mean, really, really inexpensive, compared to the aftermarket alternatives and especially the stock replacements. They work better too.

Your mechanic is a moron. Remove the relays and fuses for now, then find their "fix" and remove it. Then, we'll go through point by point and find the real problem. Meanwhile, until we can get back to the daylight hours, check out the schematic at: V11 Sport schematic Got any friends nearby with electrical experience - with a meter? It would be a tremendous help.

Slow. Had I realized the frame was bent (mea culpa) I would never have embarked on the odyssey of re-building this bike. I would have bought a LeMans and been done with it. Ah well. Words to the wise. Never, ever, try to re-build/restore three bikes simultaneously unless you're a professional!!! I'm not. Parts get mixed up. Still, yesterday was a watershed day. I got the V11 Sport frame back together as far as the picture shows and I got the !$%! swingarm on the California back on. That's huge. The California is most miserable bitch of a bike to work on I've ever dealt with. I should have it back together sometime this week though, screw-ups permitting. The V11 Sport is a little different matter. It might make it to final assembly within two weeks, depending upon whether I send more parts out to the powder coaters. Costly. I need more overtime... The Ambassador will be a strange beast. While it's a much simpler bike overall, I didn't take it apart, so the boxes and buckets of things in my shed that belong to it will have to be sorted through. And polished. And painted. Etc. Maybe this year, maybe next. The Sport 1100i is back together, but not running properly. I need to check the exhaust system and find the air leak, then finish the wide band O2 sensor kit, install the sensor, Cliff Jeffries computer, fire up the laptop, install stuff and start learning how to optomise the ECU for ported heads, then install the dual plug coils and make yet a different map for that combination. If it seems somewhat redundant to start with the single plug map first when the heads already are dual capable, it reflects on the impending installation of the Cliff Jeffries computer for the V11 Sport when that bike is runnng. Besides, installing the coils on the Sport 1100i is a 4 hour job. Seriously. That is the least accessable location of parts on the bike that isn't on the inside of the engine or transmission. And, just to confuse the issue, I have enough parts to make the V11 Sport into a six speed Sport 1100i. Wait until the Department of Motor Vehicles has to update their files on this one!!! 1996 frame from the UK, with 1997/2001 body parts, 2001 running gear. Taking the average for these body years gives me a year of manufacture of 1998. About the only thing doesn't seem to have been changed somehow is the engine. That's what I need to do. Change the engine! I need a 4V engine. Anyone got one laying around?

Red? What red???

JB Weld? It may handle the heat. If you try it and it works, let me know.

That sounds so plausible. If it were the springs, they'd be breaking in other year bikes, but they aren't. It's always been the 2002 models. And 2002 models that are breaking springs now, are not likely getting springs made in 2002, and yet they are still breaking. I'd say the coil bound reasoning is dead on. Now, about that leak. It may be a seal, it may not. Guzzi has terrible metallurgy, their castings are frequently porous. Sometimes the gearbox case just cracks, like mine did. Hopefully, the gearbox leak sdkfz11 is describing is a seal. If the case is cracked, it is very difficult to see the leaking spot. The only reason I ever located mine after at least 15,000 miles of dripping, is that the transmission came out of the bike after an accident where I could see the crack. On the bike, this spot is behind the left porkchop. It really can only be seen in the bike using a flashlight and looking up along the left swingarm on top viewing from the rear. Even then, it may not be visible. The new case set me back $613. The good part about this I think, is that if someone else has this same crack, then the best course is make it accessable somehow, clean the hell out of it, and use an aluminum filled epoxy/resin compound like JB Weld and just seal it from the outside. Structurally, it may not be significant. Mine certainly did not get worse from the first time I noticed it until I had my accident, and that much riding should have caused some sort of creeping case failure if it were stressed very much. The accident did crack the case in two spots, but apparently, not the one in the photo. The red lines marking the limits of the two oil types, were how I determined that the crack had been there before the accident. I had changed to the Red Line lubricant (Fabulous stuff BTW) just a short time before the accident. Long enough for it to ooze out of the case and slowly start dribbling down onto the collector.

The spare parts catalog is nearly 60 pages (I've borrowed one from an 850 El Dorado to put my bike back together with when the parts are all powder coated). Each page has to be cleaned up where there's been a crease, tear, scan distortion/rotation, smudge etc. The 28 pages I've done so far without any major clean up account for 24 Mb for 28 pages. My ISP limits mail size, so you either have to put the scan files at an ftp site or email them separately. Tedious. Then, after the clean up, the description pages have to be run through optical character reading software (which isn't that accurate and if the page is in Italian...) and then proof read against the original. I figure about 4 hours per page for something like this just to get it into a correct state and minimal file size (the cleanup). Then I hand code it to html using Netscape Composer. If they're aren't too many in-document links, then that process usually takes a few evenings. If there are lots of illustrations and links, it could take a few months of spare time. The resultant document would be about 60 Mb which is far larger than I have available to host. The short side of it is. I don't want to do it. I'd love to have the scans but the effort on your part would be non-trivial (really good/perfect scans require time and skill) and the effort involved for proof reading all of those numbers is monumental. I just missed getting the Ambassador spare parts catalog that was on eBay (forgot to go back and bid higher) but another one will come along eventually and I'll snag it. For the time being, that's a better course for me. Now, if MG wanted to pay me for all of this effort, I'd be quite pleased to take an MGS01 is payment for doing all of the manuals they would want to throw at me providing they host the web site.

For you Cliff, I'll do it. But it's going to be a bitch. Give me at least half a year for this one.

This is truly experimental in nature. But I had to try. http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/V750_Manual.html At 1.2 Megabytes in size, I'm not likely to leave this here for more than a few weeks. This is what happens during winter when the garage is too cold to work in and 60% of your bikes are in pieces.

Even easier (maybe). Yank the disk rotors. The cast wheel has three slots on each side beneath the disk carriers. With these exposed, you can take a long thin flat blade screwdriver and just tap out the bearing from the opposite side of the wheel. Putting new ones back in isn't too big a deal either. Buy some threaded rod at the hardware store (3/8" is what I used), two nuts and find two sockets in your tool chest that will span (to) the outer portion of the race. Put the bearings into the wheel on both sides as far as they will go hand tight (not far, never fear) and put the rod, sockets and nuts through the bearings and start tightening the nuts. Make sure the bearings stay flat as they start.

They are most definitely not the same from set to set. Trust me, I know.

Locking the Tekno bags is futile from a security standpoint, but essential to prevent losing a bag, which I've done. Take them to a locksmith and have the lock mechanism gutted so a key blank can be stuck in. I'm going to do that someday and hope to have the key handle be a flat disk kind of like the key on a V65C. One for each side that will remain in the lock permanently.

Fixed http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/sportissimo.html Just 10 schematics left to go...