callison

"Saddle bag" Al? I would've called it a sump. But since it's volume is compromised, it might be more appropriate to call it a bilge.

For a very long time, my ISP (PacBell) has limited my personal web page area to a puny 3 megabytes. Right after the new year though, checking the available space revealed I have something more like 15 megabytes. Or so I thought. A couple of hundred hours of drafting schematics later, I uploaded a whole bunch to my web page - and lost my entire top directory. Pretty interesting, as I wasn't in that one while deleting files. Now the page manager software says I have 9 megabytes available but refuses to upload the original web page which is 4 kilobytes in size. Not enough space. Say WHAT!!! Ah well, maybe I'll be able to coerce the powers that be to fix their software. I did manage to upload 28 schematics. They can only be accessed directly though. Until such time as I've fixed and restored my base page, here are the direct links to the files. http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/1967_V700.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...ovo_Falcone.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...9_V750_Euro.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...V750_Police.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...69_V750_USA.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...71_V7_Sport.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...4_850T_Euro.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/1976_V65.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/1977_V50.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/1978_G5.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...8_LeMans_II.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...lifornia_II.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati..._LeMans_III.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...3_V65_Lario.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...ifornia_III.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...a_1000_Carb.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...0_750_Targa.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/1990_LM_V.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati..._sport_1100.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...fornia_1100.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...ornia_1100i.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...7_EV_Wiring.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...Sport_1100i.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...9_V11_sport.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...assa_Wiring.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/2000_Jackal.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schematics/2002_Stone.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007//schemati...4_V11_sport.gif

I didn't lose any of it, the rod broke in half. I now have a spare set of ends and some rod in a drawer in my garage somewhere. Hopefully, I'll never need them. The garage is a disaster area.

The linkage on my Sport 1100i broke a couple of years ago 50 miles from home. You can indeed get the beasts going in 5th. The whole story of replacement parts is on guzzitech.

The mounting post on your instrument is starting to detach from the instrument housing. Bet you a beer. I've seen this happen fairly consistently with the Veglia instruments.

No.

The regulator on the V11 Sports is bolted directly to frame/engine. Just make sure the bolts don't work loose. The Daytonas and Sport 1100/1100i's suffered from a poor regulator mounting earth. I haven't seen anything like it on any other model of Guzzi though. Clean connections are happy connections.

That applies mainly to the Sport 1100i's that have the dubious ground path of the regulator mounted on the fairing sub-frame. Most Guzzi's need to have their battery cable connections kept in prime condition though.

Remove the brake caliper from the bracket first. It's a whole lot easier that way.

I have occasionally gotten 51 mpg @ 79 mph on my Sport 1100i and 49 mpg @ 78 mph on my V11 Sport.

Cliff, hang on to it for now. Transmission still at dealer and bike still on shelves in my garage. That's three bikes in pieces and two that aren't. Sheesh.

There's quite a lot to setting up an ECU and even more in making it closed loop. Check out http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/index.htm and you'll see that the O2 sensor portion of the circuit can only correct for a certain percentage of the ECU map. The map has to be close to the desired running condition first (no sensor) and then the O2 sensor can make the fine corrections. Your report seems to confirm this as the correct approach.

The tools in the toolkit plus a few added items to enable setting the valves (11mm wrench, feeler guages etc.), a foot of safety wire, small pair of long nose vice grips, a bit of duct tape wound around an empty film can, some extra fuses in the film can and two small Mini Mag flashlights. Let us know your route and you'll get a number of volunteers for phone numbers, help and a place to stay as well. When's your trip? I've put just over 100,000 miles on Guzzis so far and have never broken a cable. Lube them and then forget about them for a while. Dave, when I dropped by your place last July, that was the beginning of a wonderful trip that eventually had me riding every volcano on the west coast (except Mt. Hood). It was an absolute blast. The only malady I had was dropping the bike turning around. In front of the Canadian border guards. Twice. Broke a turn signal. The Canadians probably were thinking "Eh, look at that fellow. Sure to be stoned on drugs or something, dropping his bike like that. Twice. If we let him in, we'll have to keep an eye on 'em." And the American guards... "Jeez, look at that clown. If he gets into Canada - don't let him back into the USA." I didn't go into Canada, just turned around in shame and headed back to the National. I had a ball on that trip though and would do it again. Best road ever? Hwy 138 east of Roseburg Oregon going west after leaving Crater Lake. Never dropped below 80 mph for 51 miles except for the corners marked 35 MPH. If you don't visit Mt St. Helens and Crater Lake - you'll have blown it. If you get down here to California, give me a call, maybe I'll have something bigger than the V65 running by then.

The dealer is in Florida. You have to take the bike to them for installation and painting an all that. It'll run you about $17,000 USD.

That circuit is mostly live. Battery feeds fuse F5, thence to the starter relay and (when not starting) straight through to the headlight relay. So, try swapping a few relays around to see if that fixes it. I can't remember which relay is specific to it's own location though, so let the other guys on the forum correct that oversight. You many have a terminal pushed through on the relay block on either the starter or headlight relay, a dirty terminal or a screwed up relay. I doubt that it will be anything more serious than that though. If that doesn't fix it, it's time to start checking the sidestand relay, the run switch and the ignition switch.

Each dealer is has an allotment of TWO tires. The guys at my local shop grabbed them before the customers ever found out about it. Good luck!

Yeah Al. Step away from the tools...

Well, it may or may not be a piece of crap, but repairing the wires on the fuel valve is less than an hour's worth of work and a lot cheaper than replacing it. Do remove it from the tank it you decide to repair it though, soldering in the presence of gasoline is definitely NOT recommended. Remove the petcock from the tank, pull the crummy chrome cap off, dig into the epoxy filler with a small blade or something freeing the terminals and solder the wires on again. Use some silicone rubber on the assembly around the wires for instulation and put it all back to together. The filler drain line and the tank vent can be Tee'd (or Y'ed) together as mentioned further up in the posts. They've been that way on my Sport 1100i for four years.

The Pit Bull stands are also excellent, but are mainly a USA item. As far as the swing arm pivots are concerned, you cannot use them with a pin as that would damage the hexagonal adjustment hole, and if you had hexagonal pin, it would have to be in a bearing on the stand so that it wouldn't upset the swingarm adjustment. I've never heard of such a stand so I would suggest the stock stand from MG. I use the Pit Bull stands and I really like the front one that uses the pin under the triple tree as I can remove the wheel or the entire fork tubes without having to come up with additional supports for the engine etc. Pit Bull also makes the front stand that fits the bottom of the fork tube, but I would think that that is a little less convenient. If you opt for a Pit Bull stand for you V11 Sport series bike, you have to order the extra wide one as the V11 Sports have a very wide swing arm. The downside to the Pit Bull rear stand on the V11 Sport, or any paddock stand for that matter, is the swing arm is covered with the slippery plastic of the rear hugger and the stand will slide forward at the most inopportune moments. Even without the hugger, the MG swingarms are smooth and paddock stands tend to slide. A hose clamp around the swing arm on both sides is unsightly, but very effective at providing a stop for the paddock stand. Pit Bull motorcycle stands

Sounds like some of the symptoms my Sport 1100i was exhibiting prior to it's disassembly. I've had the bike back together for a week now. It runs, but initially it ran horribly. Idled at 2000 rpm, no oomph between idle and 6000 rpm. I put a used TPS from another bike on it and the idle dropped to normal, the throttle works properly and electrically, all is well. So... the best suggestion I can offer is to change the TPS unit. As far as the Bugswatter goes, the EFI is of course, horribly misaligned for a ported engine, but a series of things have to happen before I can start optimizing the EFI. The coils for the dual plugs have been on order since last November and have not yet arrived. I have yet to order and assemble the O2 gauges for the wide band sensors I've bought so that I can start working with the Cliff Jeffries computer etc. Eventually, it will be complete, but not in time for the Prescott Rally, much as I would like it to be. And... as far as the Prescott Rally goes, that's the same weekend that Craig Chaquico is playing at Yoshi's in Oakland, Ca. and I'll probably opt to go to that instead.

It's back (at the top) and here too. I just got my modified Sport 1100i frame back from the powder coater. Very pretty. They sure didn't look at the frame for masking though. Looks like a lot of Dremel wire brush work is due...

I agree. A valve job at such a low mileage is the least likely thing. The problem is, MG has a pretty spotty history of metal treatment of engine and transmission components so it isn't entirely impossible - which is pretty grim. Be thankful we don't have the hydraulic valve engines. They're suffering catastrophic failures and one reason that Ivan Beggio fired most of the MG engineers recently.

You're right. The clutch switch will prevent the starter from turning and nothing more. If the fuel pump fails to energize it is more likely to be a relay. Except... the power relay for the ECU has a single inline connector to it in the harness V11 Sport schematic and that connector - #57 can get just enough resistance in it from contact corrosion to fail to allow enough current through to activate the relay. It can still pass just enough voltage to give a good reading though which will confuse the merry hell out of the none electrical types among us. It even stuck me on my Sport 1100i and I've been an electronics tech for the better part of 35 years. So, it is another possibility, and not necessarily the main culprit, but you can find it, and disconnect and reconnect it a few times to wipe the contact surfaces and remove it from the list of possible suspect areas.

Yeah, you get that funny wear as the valves wobble because the valve stems have worn. Checking the clearance won't tell you anything about that wear either. If you pull the rockers off and see a kind of uneven or grooved surface, you're probably looking at a valve job.

The 2002 models had the black paint ON the sealing surfaces and bolt holes, shaft seal surfaces etc. This led to a lot of sealing problems. Later modes get those surfaces masked prior to painting at the factory. To do the repair proberly, the case paint on the gasket surface should be removed, then the gasket put on. Engine stress? I don't think so. I did 2000 miles on my V11 Sport with a bent frame and the stress was so high the engine mounts broke off of the timing cover. No leaks.