callison

Are talking about ECU's here AL? Or relays? My experience with solid state relays is that they fail in the shorted mode, as in actuated. Not ideal. They aren't cheap either. Cliff could easily make an ECU if he could get the connector. I have that part number at last, but I haven't checked on a supplier. One of too many projects.

If you call Roho, they'll tell you where to buy them cheap. Like http://www.mc-accessories.com/accessoriespage.htm I did just under 3000 miles on mine a few weeks ago. I would strongly suggest that you actually strap it on though, they're quite expensive to lose as I did returning from Prescott this spring. I'm now on number four. The cat got the first, the replacement was a size too small, so it's reserved for my wife's seat, the third blew away and number four awaits the next long trip. Number five - and there is one - is at my father's house because he fell an pranged his tail bone a few weeks ago. I hope it got there before he took off on his trip. I can't emphasize enough, how effective these seats are, they have to be tried to be believed. They are definitely NOT a fashion accessory though, they don't do a dang thing for the lines of a bike.

I'm still running the original relays in my Sport 1100i. 57K+ miles. One stuck once. A tap and it worked again. I ran the original relays in my V11 Sport to 22,000 miles and they were replaced while looking for another problem. You neve know with Guzzi's just which electrical malady will rear its ugly little head.

I like the 170/60 w/std front 120/70 combo. Dave Richardson of Moto International recommends a 160/60 - 110/70 combo for even lighter handling. That is, if my memory recollects correctly.

Absolutely. And it is for this very reason that I started doing the color schematics for Guzzis. I had to push my Sport 1100i twice because of a poor connection that prevented the power relay for the ECU to activate. A bad connector that wasn't on the diagram was the culprit. After that experience, I thought I would make sure the schematic was updated.

Yep. The fuel filter is for the California/EV/Stone/whathaveyou. ISn't it great to see standardization?

So much for my assessment of the problem. I'm going to go sit in the corner now. Relay, I mean really...

Are you planning to race or ride this on the street?

Referring to V11 Sport Wiring Schematic you seem to have a short or a bad regulator. Everything you mention, at some point or the other, is powered off of the same 12V line that is fed from the regulator which in turn is fed by fuse #3.

ALL Moto Guzzi big block engines have used the same air filter for the last six years or more. That part number is 301136000 (I'm looking at the bag it came in). The fuel filters may differ in the attachments though, and I honestly have not changed the fuel filter on my V11 Sport (24,000+ miles - I'll know when it's time because my gas mielage will improve, Nyuk, nyuk...). The fuel filter number for a 97 Sport 1100i is 30106000 which is model with the fuel lines hose clamped on and the part number for a 97 California id 29106061, which uses banjo bolt attachments. According to the V11 Sports Shop Manual CD Rom (which does NOT have any parts numbers - drat), the V11 Sport uses the hose clamp type filter. The Napa 3008 is a close match, but uses the banjo bolts, but it's a starting point. I have a slew of equivalent banjo bolt filter numbers in my email, but not for the hose clamp ones. Time to start another list of substitutes...

THe valve is closed when fully seated after turning it clockwise as viewed from the top of the petcock valve stem, which I think is upside down on the new V11 Sports. II have a 2001 and so have to contend with the electric version, but that is how it is on my Sport 1100i. Generally, the petcocks work fine, but I have seen one Scura with one so stiff that it takes pliers to actually turn it. There's always some fuel in the lines that spills, but I've never encountered large quantities except when I neglected to close the petcock completeley or when changing the fuel filter.

Try 3.5 months for cylinder head gaskets. Dave, check the part no's for the LeMans against those of a 97 Sport 1100i. They're probably the same, if they are, I can lend you my relatively new disk and caliper from the Bugswatter. I have less then 1500 miles on them.

That's not just ugly, it's fugly! Do what you like gents, I'll keep the round, plain, traditional headlight. BTW, the headlight pattern on the V11 Sport is an order of magnitude better than the one from the rectangular headlight on the Sport 1100i.

I just passed 24,000 miles on my 2001 V11 Sport TT Friday. To date, the list of problems includes: A.) 3 sidecover screws that have rattled off after the shop forgot to tighten the screws after service. B.) Alternator cover that fell off after the shop forgot to tighten the screws after service. C.) Tachometer light socket falling apart. D.) Instrument panel mount screws loosened up. E.) Front brake reservoir mounting bracket fractured and broke. F.) Rear brake cylinder needed to be replaced due to corrosion (actually, it may be still be good?). G.) The infamous tach failure. Replaced under warranty. H.) The infamous relays. Replaced under warranty, but actually they weren't at fault. I.) Clutch switch bullet connectors developed a poor connection preventing bike from starting. J.) Infamous tank suck cured by removing offending hardware. K.) Rear disk scored from worn brake pads. Of these, D, F and K are my fault. D and E occurred during last weeks 2850 mile ride to the National, very minimal interferrence with the trip (I had enlugh tools along to effect a road-side fix).

Yeah, look under Technical Topics - Charging Light and scroll down to my entry for June 7th (or search for radioactive blue). As far as separating the dash indicators, I think it requires re-wiring the sockets.

Seems like a go to me, although I would give the credit to the engineers, road maintenance crews and the taxpayers that paid for them. As far as an email, after being oblivious to posted speed limits to enjoy some of these roads to the maximum, why point the finger at yourself?

I've given up on the manhole cover. The filter wrench never seems to get a good enough grip to remove the filter. Doesn't matter if it's a metal or plastic one, UFI or some other. Nowadays, I just remove the pan and wipe the bottom out while I'm at it. I've had one Guzzi I did this on for four years before the pan gasket got stiff enough to require replacing. YMMV.

Sleepless nights Joe? Every time I tell you that those twin bug eyes are hideously ugly (my personal opinion, not meant to be foisted upon others as the ultimate truth or whatever) you make another step towards actually putting them on! Go for it, if it makes you happy, certainly it would be a boon during the night portion of your commute. As for the mount lugs. They're real strong. The Daytona's, Daytona RS's and the Sport 1100i's use these mount points for the fairing sub-frame, instruments, headlight, regulator, vapory recovery systems and a fiberglass half-fairing. Not to put too fine a point on it, the weight and catilever stress of all of this stuff is far greater than that of the dual headlight installation. I asked John Stoddart about these mounts at the National last week. So far, my 2001 V11 Sport TT is the only V11 Sport I've seen that does NOT have these mounts. Drat. I could use them. It seems that at some point late in production for the 2001 models, these mount points were dropped, only to be resurface again for the fairing on the V11 LeMans and the later bikes like the Cafe Sport and the Bellagio (which I saw the second day they were at Moto International. Nice bikes, but I'm a clip-on sort of guy). According to John, the new mount points are not the same as the old ones, but until measured by someone, I'm going to say that they're probably the same. After all, they're using the same jig to build the frame and there have never been any mechanical problems with the old ones. I can't see that there would be any production expediency in changing them.

Check out Project Bike. I emailed Brent a few years ago and he stated that he was getting 50-55 mpg and the bike would lift the front wheel in the first three gears by just opening the throttle. Porting does improve efficiency, but to use it, you have to avoid the temptation to whack the throttle constantly. With that kind of power, that isn't an easy task.

I did nearly 3000 miles last week on the V11 Sport TT in temperatures in the 100˚F rnage and altitudes to 8511 ' and nary a sign of vapor lock. These bikes seem to have a tremendous lattitude in how they respond to the environment.

In the V11 Workshop manual its illustrated in /GB/CSS/38.PDF. I thinkyou probably have this, but if not, you can get it at http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/v11manuals/.

At least Al's heads are done. I talked to Mike Rich yesterday and my rocker arms are also victims of the soft valve stems. They have to be re-bushed and re-ground as well. I haven't even looked into the pushrod/tappet bores yet. This is getting to be an extremely expensive repair. Pushing $2000 at last count.

No picture, but it's a somewhat organic looking one piece(?) subframe that attaches to the fairing mounts on the steering head. It holds the fairing, headlight, and the instrument cluster. It is a bit further forward than stock, so I would surmise that longer cables are required. I like the mount, but I don't like the fairing. When someone finally does get a picture posted, you'll see what I mean.

I dunno. While the silly plug bounces around in there it's going to get pretty shredded. Unsure as to whether it will get the opportunity to melt whilst being chipped away though. I don't think that it could actually get into the clutch plates but imagine the smell as the clutch engaged on a bunch of little pieces of rubber! Just to put some perspective to this, I learned to drive in Vientiane, Laos back in the sixties in a Rambler which a water buffalo hide clutch. You had to pretty good at getting going to do it without slipping the clutch excessively as the smell would pretty much make you want to be somewhere else. Fortunately, with most of the floorboards rusted out, ventilation was never much of a problem.

How do you get rid of a pet rock? Tie a cat around its neck and toss it in the creek. Oops. Sorry. This was way off subject wasn't it.