mike wilson

You are assuming constant temperature. In real situations gas gets hot when compressed, which increases the readings from the theoretical. Same reason you measure your tyre temp when it is cold.....

This is also true of other engine configurations (such as single cylinder machines) and, interestingly, there is a method of distributing the wear when using gears to drive the cams. Velocette, for one, used it on many models. http://dliengineering.com/vibman/huntingtoothgearsets.htm Unfortunately, this option is not available on aftermarket sets for Guzzis, so the same teeth have to carry the stress and wear revolution after revolution.

If this is the resistance when the switch is closed (light on) then it is bad. There should be as close to zero resistance as possible. 10's of Ohms is a no-go.

Won't that make you feel even dumber? 8-)

The video (Griswald style) should cover the cost.

I'm afraid I go with the Weird Al parody when it comes to Zappa: http://www.com-www.com/weirdal/geniusinfrance.html

Odd that nobody has mentioned Don Van Vliet yet.......

They are all called Luigi. Or maybe Mario.

"Laying down" is the most unmitigated balderdash. If you have time to think of that and execute it, you have time to brake. Twice I have braced myself for a severe impact _knowing_ that I was going to collide with the top of penis :-) who pulled out in front of me. Both times I stopped short, once embarrasingly so. Neither time with disc brakes, I have to add. Despite having practiced regularly, it is amazing how necessity will always find that extra bit of stopping force to suprise you. With modern tyres and brakes, stopping distances from high speeds are excellently short.

My personal scenario is to keep limbs tight to the body for first impact then spread them out to both assist with reducing the possibility of tumbling and to change areas of friction. DON'T try to slow yourself down by scrabbling at the road with your fingertips (first time) OR try to sit up or stand whilst you are still moving (second time) as both will cause further injuries. Never, ever fall off where you might slide into a guard rail. Racers walk because there is nothing to hit by design. It's not a real-world scenario. Even if you are lucky and manage to avoid immediate injury, falling off will probably have long term repercussions on your joints and suchlike.

If you are talking about corrosion on the external bolt heads, the only way to go is replace with stainless. These will need antisieze (Copaslip or, for the very rich, the silver equivalent) to prevent corrosion between the bolt and whatever it's screwed into. If you are talking about corrosion _inside_ your gearbox, you need to change the oil more frequently or use it for more than going down the shops. Just a thought - sometimes the remnants of some types of threadlock can look very like corroded aluminium on a freshly extracted bolt. Are you talking about white powdery stuff on the threads of bolts that you have taken off?

You mean like this?

Exactly. The full works setups are appalling - especially MotoGP and F1. Have been for some time. Last year's success was just sheer, unadulterated luck, as far as I could see. I don't mind - it makes the competition more interesting than when the whole Banzai syndrome takes over.

Ah. And here's me thinking that the very act of buying one is ironic in itself. Back to reality, banjos and Triumphs.

Plus there is an obvious problem in the Honda competition (all sorts - just look at F1) camp - has been for two or three years. I wouldn't trust Honda to make a reliable, competitive bicycle at the moment. None of the competitive facets seem to be able to get their eye on the ball.

We could make our own... The 2008 Wing. Now with electric screenwash as standard fitting. No more pumping your left leg up and down to be able to see where you are going. Optional PAzorst. Let your Wing make the sound you want with this 400W exhaust noise simulator. Huntin'Lodge trunk. Opens up to a 50sq metre genuine log cabin, with pitched roof and real wood fire. Plumbing and heating optional accessories.

"Argument juice" is the stuff.... I'm just glad they use banjo music during testing, for safety reasons. Although..... maybe industrial espionage requires them to use the theme from Deliverance.

Black, highly adhesive brake dust.

The lack of flexibility appeals. As my tiny Chinese concubine is wont to say, "That tool is rubbery".

Not entirely clear but it looks like the toehold is held on with two pan headed (maybe button headed) socket headed cap screws. No bodgery present.

Hygroscopic specifically means that a substance binds moisture from the atmosphere. If it is not separated from the air, it will continue to absorb moisture until it either reaches equilibrium in some way (if a liquid) or dissolves itself in its absorbed water (if originally a solid - then the first parameter comes into play).

Certainly nowhere near the change in dimensions over temperature of the container of said oil.

I would go with cleaning as best as possible and then battering a piece of metal over it to as close a fit as possible. Attach it with some self-tappers. Then remove it and slather the area in good quality epoxy before reattaching. Then watch it peel off again the next day. I understand the attachment to tools. I am very attached to one in particular.

The problem is more likely that you are not getting proper adhesion due to oil contamination. To have any real chance of success, you probably need to cut out the crack as far as possible, wash what's left with something like acetone (nail varnish remover _without_ conditioner) and then build up replacement "metal" with epoxy mixed with something like chopped strand glass. If you know any aeromodellers in your area, they will be able to help. They get to do this sort of thing rather a lot..... Another way might be to form then screw a patch of thin (~1mm) alloy sheet over the crack, covering it all with epoxy. If you are using good quality epoxy the temperature should not be a problem.

You could have tied two threads together. musical philosophers