bigbikerrick

Thanks for the link, very informative, now i dont feel like such a dildo for stripping out one of the hex bolts.

Bwaaahaaaahaaaa! I love it, I love it!

after reading posts about the rear wheel splines being dry on some bikes ,I decided I had better check mine, sure enough, my splines were dry and a little rusty, I cleaned off the rust and geased them, the needle bearing on the right side, and the driveshaft splines and rear universal joint. I started to remove the hex bolts on the wheel to look at the cush drive, and darn it, the second bolt I put the hex socket on immediately stripped the hex head. At this point I decided to stop there and not proceed to drill, use an "easy out" ,try to remove it today,and bolted everything back together. My question is ; what needs to be done to the cush drive,and how important is it to be done? I have 5000 miles on my bike at this point. Thanks folks, Ive owned my V 11 for a little over a month and this forum has been GOLDEN!

Probably not worth all the trouble for 8 bucks, but certainly dooable

Thank you Sir, I will search here I guess its all about wiring it directly with a relay

those are the MG Ti's correct? same pipes I have, are those pipes made by Leo Vince for MG? they sure are very similar to a Leo Vince system I had on my R6, I noticed that right away when I got my Ti,s.

I changed the stock h4 bulb with a Lockhart Phillips racing ion yellow bulb. I was looking for the yellow tinged headlight look so cars would notice it more in traffic( keep cagers from turning left in front of me) I put the same bulb in my cbr 600 with dramatic results, very yellow from straight on, with a bluish/purple hue when viewed from an angle, and excellent road illumination at night. on the V 11, its much more subdued. My question is can that round "reflector" /deflector in f ront of the bulb be removed? whats its purpose? Thanks !

Thanks for the reply, I agree an engine oil sight glass would be sweet!

I have the moto guzzi Ti's they are awesome . With the ecu they come with the fuel mapping is perfect, the difference in throttle response is very noticeable,alot of people say it sounds like a 5.0 mustang with a good set of headers. I think it sounds nice and deep. actually they are a piece of Italian art. IMHO

should the tranny be filed to the middle of the window, or to the bottom of the window to avoid leaks?

Thanks skeeve, actually I sealed up the motor last night using the yamabond 4 I appreciate your "vote of confidence" though

So, Mike are you saying that the shockproof heavy should be used only in the rear end ,and NOT in the tranny?

Thats good to hear Brian, Im going to order 3 quarts of the shockproof heavy and put it in the gearbox, rear end, and the rear end of my nomad, sounds like real good stuff!

A member posted that his gearbox leak stopped by using redline shockproof heavy gear lube. I will try anything before having to tear the gearbox apart or taking it to the dealer. But I heard that some of the gearboxes have plastic bearing cages that disintegrate with synthetic oil. Im currently running 80-90wt dino lube. I assume the redline is a synthetic, does my 2002 v 11 have those plastic bearing cages?

what part of your gearbox was leaking? were you able to pinpoint the leak? Im tempted to try the redline to see if it solves my problem.

wow, thats some pretty fancy paint Jaap It sure looked like anodizing to me

I changed my 90 wt. measured .850l L and the oill was over the top of the window, i sucked some out until it got to the middle, maybe about 60 miL .

my 2002 naked has just under 5K miles,and has had a small leak from the gearbox since new. im pretty sure its coming from the joint between the main gearcase and the "sandwiched" section between the main case and the rear plate. Ive cleaned it off many times and inspected it carefully. It drops a couple of drops on the crossover mostly when its setting on the sidestand,parked you see/smell it on the bottom left side of the gearcase. Im pretty handy with tools and ive got a repair manual CD coming in the mail soon. what is involved in sealing up this leak? does the motor have to be dropped? does it require very invasive dissasembly of the gearbox, or is it easy to reseal that middle plate? I hate to take it to the dealer 130 miles away if its something I can do myself. all comments/ suggestions are truly appreciated.

The red pork chops on my 2002 naked seem to be anodized red,not painted. I may be wrong, but is sure looks that way to me.....

The fact that it never really dries is what has me skeptical, it stays like used chewing gum, I wonder how in the world something like that will seal against oil leakage! these products are not silicone based , but actually look more like a thick latex paint...

Exactly what dlaing said!

Thanks Carl, Man I dont know what I would do without this forum, you guys are GREAT! I thank you again, Sir.

Actually, Pete the vulcans after 1999 have a steel oil pump gear, not the plastic one that strips at any time and suddenly you have no oil pressure as you are going down the highway at 70mph. Mine is a 2000. actually its been a very reliable bike for the last 20K miles. but.... It has NO soul, thats where the V11 comes into play, since I got the v 11 I havent ridden the vulcan at all, I may sell her and get a cali to park next to the sport, This Guzzi thing is habit forming! Im hooked, Im an addicted to Guzzis!

The fuel petcock on the right side of my tank( right if sitting on the bike) has a round plate on the bottom with a 1" long tube of some sort sticking out from it, it seems to have an opening on the end like where a vaccum hose would hook up, but there is no hose there, the fuel line is connected above that. My bike is a 2002 v 11 sport. what is the purpose of that tube sticking out, is it to turn off that petcock? (That tube does turn the plate its attatched to if you push on it) Thanks in advance.

This time Im not working on my V 11 sport, but am posing this question here because there seems to be alot of knowledge and expertise in this forum. this weekend I will be repairing a cam end plug oil leak on my kawasaki nomad 1500( see jap bikes leak too! ) anyway, the cam plug is steel, coated with rubber and sits between the head and rocker cover. I have both the grey Yamabond #4 which is considered "non Drying" and the black Yamabond #5 which is a "drying" gasket maker. which one of these do you folks suggest I use on this application? oh , I also have to seal up the top rocker cover which are 2 machined surfaces with some sort of metal gasket between the 2. Thank You. Thank God I have my trusty V 11 to ride while I have the motor out of the Vulcan