mdude

I encountered the same as you when I bought my bike and my solution was to first jack up the rear suspension spring nearly all the way to get more weight up front, uprate springs in fork (Wilbers) and back off settings on rebound and compression both front and rear because they were set way too hard. Compliant does it. Hard makes nervous/skittish. Back it off first then set two clicks at a time while taking a test drive to feel the effect. In fear of being cut down by the forums steeringdamperunion I dare to say that the running wide thing is not because of the damper but down to the setting of the rear spring. If you ride with a sagging rear you will encounter serious low speed understeering on throttle. Try the rear spring first. It wont destroy comfort. Depends on your weight of course. Im a fat bast.... myself. I have my steering damper turned up by two or three notches from nothing just because its there, I could probably just have turned it off.

Received my PC111 by mail the other day from the US (very reasonable, I must say. From Morepowerracing.com). It came preloaded with MGcycles map for the complete Mistral package and all. Guess it took me about 2 and a half minute to install. You americans do a really nice plug and play, the threshold for putting this on is LOW. First impression is a slightly higher idle, faster throttle reactions, less snatching, BIG increase in midrange torque, less vibes, absence of the dreaded hiccup and I guess it must have at least 20% more power from 3-5000rpms. In general, it goes like stink. I really didnt expect that much difference from a readymade mapping. PCIII is a must! (or a MyECU, of course)

on the earlier version the hex screw IS the bar end weight. Its a right pig to get out. I have tried for three years to get my left side off without succeeding. it bonds with the handlebar. dont dare to use as much force as is needed, and the handlebar itself twists when I try. I would have the napoeleons if I got it off, for that chromed retro look.

ah, the stable red frame he said dryly....... i've had a slapper that broke my thumb, braking at an angle at low speed. all "moments" I've had with this bike has been at low speed when I gave more steering or braking input than it could handle. I rode without the bloody steering damper for months without noticing its absence, then turned it up a few notches and didnt really feel any difference. It still lives beneath me, wriggling a bit on cambers, trying to get away when braking into streetcorners. One has to ride around that quirk. If you hustle it it will bite you, steering damper or not. I dont think its "twitchy". Call it unstability or shite weight distribution if you want but its still low and heavy and freighttrain-like at speed. Its not really made for wheelies, streetraces and stoppies is it? You got other bikes for that kind of exhibitionism. Im really surprised at the amount of riders in such discussions that firmly believe that the Goose is a thoroughbred red hot superbike capable of killing R1s and 999s at sight. Well you can be really fast on anything as long as you have an extra can of guts with you. My fastest mate rides a beatup Kawa W650. I have NO idea how he manages to ride that poor thing as fast as he does. My wifes Laverda, which has a shorter wheelbase than a Honda NSR 125 is the most quicksteering bike Ive tried. It has no steering damper and can be thrown around like a pushbike on streetcorners. No moments whatsoever on that one. Its easier to drive fast, its easier to drive slowly. Its just better constructed than the Guzzi. This might not make sense, but its written in Norway.

also try Black Francis with Tight Black Rubber, thats a tight sturdy bushing tune.

Ahh, quite relived to find that Norway couldnt fit in, comfortable right where I am at the moment.

yeah. I might be tempted by a 70s GoldWing, just to have that comfy chair. but the greenie stays.

was out driving last wednesday to the hangout. the sport behaved like a mandrill in heat: jerky throttle, spitting and fuming fuel, detonations on half throttle, nervous steering and no smoothness whatsoever. dead wrists after 20 minutes and pretty little go under 6000 rpms as well. slow as f... out of redlights. the pink matted pork chops sticking out like zits. parked it up in anger and went right up and went through the used bikes ads. Kawa zrx1200? Honda cb1300? Buell? no Ducce, I cant afford the maintenance. And strictly no harley davidson, sir. Pretty frustrated and bored with the guzzi now. then the weekend went and... i dont really want another bike (what in gods name would I do with a huge Kwak?). I want italian individuality, quirkiness and weird tech. And a lot of noise. And the cafe racer style is really my thing. So I thought again. Today I went down and gave the greenie a real good clean, degreaser, scrub, rubber renewer and polish. Talked to it and made friends. Then I went through these pages again, and browsed through images of guzzi specials to awake my spirits again. Then I ordered a PC III.... I think thats really what it wants. and promised myself to polish and paint the weathered details this autumn. guess I just keep it then. forever? why cant I like easy, commercially proven stuff? (PS: easier access to local support with a pc III, even though I still have a spare ECU to build a MyECU on...)

it just needs a sharp crease here and there, like the classic alutanks from tank shop. Classic mistake of mistaking "lines" with "jello". I like the simplicity.

see forum sponsor Rossopuro, they have a complete set.

As for the Buell solution I tried it but took them off as fast as I could. Strange position of feet....

Takk for all interessant informasjon, Jens. Og klokken er altid på når jeg kjører Guzzi. Men min gode mann.... BMW? Min spådom er at du kommer tilbake i folden når du heller vil kjøre noe med sjel. (to others: its in norwegian)

I've tried the Reevu lids and didnt like them. The idea is brilliant and the periscope itself works well enough, but the helmet itself dont feel like quality item, furthermore its made to fit a pregnant male hippo with huge sideburns and didnt feel right at all. I'm a Shoei-head. And with low clipons you will have perfect control over the seagulls overhead, as said before.

Was planning to ride up to the Classic TT (track situated near my old farm in the woods: Våler) on friday, torrential rain, north west gale and 6 degrees C put an end to that. Trickled up through heavy traffic instead and and spent the weekend sitting inside with some logs on the fireplace and danish gold in the glass. This is not summer!

thanks, but this is the owners manual. Ive got that.

Anyones got a good tip on where to find a Laverda 668 manual for download? Wifeys Lav needs some TLC on the starter motor. Its a1996 with the improved engine of 1999 (as far as I i'm told). I cant be bothered by Ebay bidding, I'm getting too old...

I saw the first Streetfighter last night at the hangout. Say what you like but in flesh it looks like a millon dollars. incredibly hitech and zillions of details to lust after. there was also a Desmosedici.... How does a 999 drive for a big person? cramped? uncomfy? or what? its becoming unfashionable over here (and cheaper than the later 996/998s) and I like unfashionable.

they don get really hot, do they? I doubt that my Mistrals are much over 50 degrees celsius after a run, and that wont be a problem for a clear coating.

Hi Tom. I f..... up my carbon fairing badly a couple of years ago and fixed it. Any high quality aerosol box with a gloss finish clear coat (acrylic based) can be used, but there are some that gives you a UV-filter as well. I used on thats called Quick. Use really fine sanding paper (wet) to prepare the piece, 600-1200. Look out for running paint (rather three coats than one thick), use fine paper to sand down between coats. Use rubbing compund to finish it off and make it shiny. Then any car wax. It takes time to get a good finish but its very rewarding. And the paint will be very durable compared to stock.

its what does it for me, 1000 years of traditions and fine tuning, one of the best drams in the world. I might consider a sip of Auchentosch as replacement....

I hated my bike the first times I rode it, but then I fixed it with some easytodo tweaks. Bought it unseen just like you. the V11 IS a special kind of bike to ride, and needs learning. no mistake about that, I am still learning. you have to be a bit loose in the wrists, grab her with your knees and let her live a little beneath you. it helps to lean in a bit before corners too. this is no steelfisted and lifeless Beemer. it does not like quick inputs and can bite back if you hustle it, plan ahead and plot your curves and youll be carving up the countryside at silly speeds just fine. but dial in the suspension properly before you fork out loadsamoney on expensive components. If youre a big guy you will need to tighten the spring on the rear shock nearly 2/3 to the max, if its not done already. That will lift the rear 2-3cms and make turn in much quicker. Then back off the settings on rebound and compression; many bikes are much to firmly set and feels very nervous. do a search in here, there was an australian who had some brilliant advice on shock settings. Then before you bleed your wallet with a Ohlins fork (that is unless youve got a weely fat wallet) buy uprated springs from Wilbers (or others), for about no cost at all. Get them properly put in and set up, change fork oil. Check tires: if theyre old change them. The V11 is a bit sensitive to old tyres (my left wrist is stiff to prove it). AND: a slightly slimmer rear tyre ( I went from 170 to 160) will improve handling and your confidence in the bike A LOT! Its an old chassis, its not designed for modern superbike rubber. Its like putting 20' rims on a 1988 VW Polo. These are inexpensive AND QUICK fixes compared to full Ohlins, and will really transform your bike. Badly set up Ohlins will feel just as shitty as a badly set up standard bike. Of course, if youre a real workshop superman you will already know this, but its nice to sit here and write instead of work....

Brilliant. I'll probably order the second option from Pasotibbs suggestion. The DB Dawg looked special, but it might not be as effective, perhaps?

Anyone know of loose removeable DBkillers/baffles that would fit the Mistrals? I have the round race pipes and although I love the noise I think the possibility of muting it on longer runs would be nice. And it might beef up the low range torque a bit too. Do NOT assume that I'm chickening out. I dont have the size of the outlet pipes in front of me, since I just got the idea three seconds ago. Seen similar things on the net but they look homemade.

look at dynotecs latest offering on a tonti Lemans basis I couldnt sleep last night cause I want it so bad http://www.dynotec.de/ click on the Lemans 2009 link