twhitaker

I'm confident adding a second pair of offsets would be a waste. I contacted the manufacturer with my concerns about it torqueing. I told him I was planning on drilling the lower half for a roll pin. He said that coating the joint with an epoxy will make it as if it were one piece. It would break before it twists.

Please be forewarned, this product will not make your pinion any stronger.

Edge Guard = Look in the 'Fabricated rear-shock mud guard' thread here in the technical section. Edge has come up with a VERY nice product.

Getting some air time.

What they said. I removed the tire to install the 'Edge Guard' last Sunday. I had the bike supported on a paddock stand. I disconnected the brake caliper from its mount. I made a lever out of a couple boards to support the tire just to take the weight off the axle. If you withdraw the spindle about 7 inches it should support the drive box adequately. There is a spacer sleeve that fits between the the male spline on the wheel and the female spline on the drive box. If you do things right the spacer will stay in there.

For those idiots that see you but don't actually comprehend what they saw, I use the little passing light switch. Just flicker it a couple times and they usually will get the message.

I installed my Edge Guard yesterday. Very easy. The fit and finish suggest it should be an OEM accessory. $20 very well spent. Thanks.

What really bothers me about this deal is the top dogs at HD cashing in just before the stock took a dive. This is kind of like finding out you have been playing poker with marked cards. The fellow who slipped in the marked cards should get his thumbs broken. Martha Stewart did essentially the same thing and went to jail for lying about it.

Yes on both my bikes.

I bought a universal grease fitting at Ace Hardware. It's basically a tube with a swivel on the very end. The last 20 or 25mm pivots through 180 degrees. The tube is about 150mm long. I connected this to the pump. With the rear tire removed you position the zerk at the top and reach through the driveshaft tunnel in the swingarm and make the connection to the grease fitting. Wrap the universal joint protectors with some tape to catch the grease as it flings off during your first ride. This should make the mess somewhat easier to clean up.

For the record the only place I needed the shim was in the top half of the offset where there is literally no torque. The bottom half of the offset is split clear through so it clamps very tightly around the stub. You can get quite a bit of clamping force with an M8 screw. I'm going to key the offset to the stub for piece of mind. The stub is keyed into the fork clamp with one of the clamp screws.

I also bought a 6 foot long plastic coated steel cable that I store in the tailpiece. When we go to events this cable allows us to lock up both helmets and jackets. I thread the cable through a jacket sleeve and the opening in the helmet then pass both ends of the cable onto the lock. Costs about $6 at Aerostich.

I just put my gloves between the helmet and the muffler. I bought a pair of those helmet lock extensions to make the task easier. It is just a tee shaped piece with an eye at the end. It passes through the helmet D ring then the eye is a much easier reach to the lock on the bike.

That would be taking the 'looking out for our safety' or 'big brother' tact to an extreme.

Has Wayne figured out what is wrong? Could your problems possibly be related to that loud mustard color? Nails?

Here are my pictures. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=18iykh...m&x=0&y=-he47dd These are from Mojohand. He takes batter ones, me thinks. http://www.flickr.com/photos/mojohand/sets/395594/

The torque was also a big concern of mine. I plan on drilling for a roll pin in the bottom of the offset after I've made the final position determination. The dealer suggested using epoxy and I'm thinking about going that way.

Here is how I managed to install a set of risers on my '02 LeMans. I got the idea of switching around the clamps from a fellow in Italy. I picked up the offsets from www.cliponrisers.com for $40 apiece plus $10 shipping and handling. I had Lee Bruns make the bar stubs. Nice work by the way. The offsets are bored for 7/8 inch bars. The existing bars are metric so I had to fill the space with a piece of .007 plastic shim stock. I had to relocate the front brake hose through the lower fairing cover next to the right fork leg to make it long enough. I rerouted the throttle cable behind the triple tree. The jury is still out on if the hoses need to be extended. This moves the bars back about two inches and up about one inch. (The 11,000 miles is on my second odometer.)

Welcome to the board. The lock nut on your rear axle is the right size for the manhole cover. Your tool kit should have a box end wrench to fit it. These two components together work nicely for me. I bought a socket for the oil filter at the local automotive parts store. A M18 hex nut has 27mm flats.

So,did they tell you what it took to fix it?

For what it's worth you got my $.02 I really doubt you'll ruin anything. I hope somebody comes along to support the theory.

Is it possible the splines in the final drives are of different lengths. I seem to remember there being something like that. I think the earlier spine frames had narrower rear tires. If the older drive box has a longer spline you might be able to get away with making the spacer narrower. Try putting it together without the spacer just to see if the gap goes away.

Bshpilot, That is a MIGHTY generous offer and you, sir, have my respect. If you do wind up hauling the HDM down to Inman Park for Bill please plan on taking notes. We expect a report (finally an unbiased one) on the Garagemahal.

3000 miles on the engine oil. Once a year on the others. One of these days I'll get the courage to change the fork oil.