twhitaker

How did the tire change go? No surprises? Have you ordered your Kharma bell yet? We went for a ride yesterday with some Beemer guys. One of them picked up a screw. You guessed it. No Kharme bell. We were talking about that the rest of the trip.

Been using that filter for the last 8 years. 60,000 miles on the Cali and 21,000 on the LeMans. It is a highly rated filter too. They have the socket too for under $5.00

If your light is coming on only at idle, you might try raising the idle speed a little bit. Should be around 1100 RPM. My light comes on if I let it idle below 1000 RPM.

My speedometer was replaced 4 months after I bought the bike. The reset odometer locked up. The first thing I noticed with the new unit was that miles were stacking up faster on the reset odometer than the other. This was wierd. 100 miles on the reset odometer and only 75 on the other. I checked the speedometer and it showed the normal 5-7% optimistic. Now, I have to get a calculator out to determine whether or not I'm due for an oil change. I have to use the formula; odometer reading x 1.24 + 7500 Fortunately, when I sell the bike, if ever, I can, tongue in cheek, say it has low miles on it.

I don't see any real good reason to drop the engine. The cam is removed from the front. I would much rather pull the front forks and get at it from that end. I believe Pete Roper has written about this operation either here or on the Wildguzzi board. It was to replace a cam with hydraulic lifters. The fact the motor is mounted to the frame on the timing cover is one problem to overcome though.

Might be worth checking the accuracy of your odometer. Mine is an astounding 24% off.

Have you been spending more time warming the bike up before you take off? Bike gets 0 mpg sitting in the driveway. Might be worthwhile looking at your sensors. A faulty engine temperature sensor will make the bike run extremely rich.

Sounds like you may have to do a road trip or let your fingers do the walking through the yellow pages under 'bearings.'

Most any industrial bearing supply house can help you. Depending on where you live some company names come to mind. Dixie Bearings, Applied Industrial Technologies. Motion Industries, Kaman, Bearing Distributors. Some top bearing brands are SKF, FAG, Torrington, MRC, Fafnir. The wheel bearings are lightly loaded for their size and do not spin that fast. Bearings of this size are usually rated for over 10,000 rpm. Probably the most important consideration this case is the quality of the seals. Compare the cost of a class 3 bearing to a standard one.

One month riding season is a high price to pay for 'medical benefits.'

That ain't the half of it. She bought me the bike as a wedding present.

It could be because we both are a long way from 60 years old. There was only one day we traveled more than 300 miles too.

May I ask, why? You don't like them? Why not? Inquiring minds want to know. I'd like to try them out but would not want to relive your experience.

The Buell foot pegs look like they would be a good option although there is some machining (sanding) and bushings required. An inch or so is gained. Costs less than $50 US. Look at 'Buell Lighting Footpegs' on page 4 of 'Technical Topics.'

I ride a lot with an electric vest. Sometimes two and have noticed no additional draw on the system. I do tend to turn the vest off 5 minutes before I get to my destination. It has a 10 amp fuse and I doubt it draws more than 3 amps.

Take a look at the oil line that feeds the rocker box. Sometimes the crush washer there leaks. There is also a breather line with a hose clamp that could have worked loose.

I picked this up from Wildguzzi. It's a worthy cause. Great place. Great owners. Help save them from the devistation that's been heaped upon them.

Wife and I did a 1900 mile trip last June on ours comfortably. Had a compression bag in place of the topcase for the camping gear. The HB saddlebags and a tank held the rest of our stuff. Did this with the stock seat and clip ons.

If it's a GL-4 you need to add moly. If it is a GL-5 you do not. To make matters more confusing the folks who package the final drive oil may have added moly to the bottle. If that is the case I would expect it to say so on the container.

The 'spark plug thingie' is the oil pressure sensor. The 'screwed down' one beside it is your ignition timing pick up. It's good that you've found your problem. Hope no permanent damage has been done. Make sure you lubricate the gasket on the filter and screw it on tight. In my opinion too tight is better than too loose. A couple times I've had to resort to a screwdriver and a hammer to get the filter off but that's better than finding the filter sitting in the pan. Yes, moot point.

Radiator shops are an abundant commodity here in the States. I had a Convert years ago and the repairs done to the transmission fluid cooler by the bike shop would predictibly fail every 6 months. I finally took it to a rediator shop and the fix stayed fixed. Unless your radiator has a bunch of plastic that's where I would suggest taking it. They may even be able to pull a ccompatible one out of their catalogs.

Me thinks you've answered your own question.

Some drips out the back when you've got 850cc in there should not be a problem. I had some drippage after I changed the fluid the first time. I let the bike drain overnight. Next day I put in a measured 850cc and it came to the top of the sight glass. There must have been some fluid leftover in there when I refilled. I had some serious drippage for a week or so. I drained and refilled to the BOTTOM of the sight glass and it's been fine ever since.

I'm impressed. Maybe wife will get me a pair for Christmas.

Even funnier, they pronounce it Chiiiliiie with the "i" like a "y" instead of an "e". Peru is pronounced Pee-ru instead of Per-u. Santa Claus is in Switzerland county.