twhitaker

Indiana has towns by the names of Peru, Chili, Mexico, Brazil, Angola, Holland, New Palestine, Norway, West Lebanon, and Santa Claus.

I've had these on this bike for just over 2 years. Ian was very helpful.

EISH ENTERPRISES, 11041 Opal Road N.E. Salineville, OH 43945 330-738-3944 He's the man. jreish@bright.net Type slowly, his typing fingers do not move so fast anymore. I especially like his terms.

Look at the positive connection at the starter. Look inside the starter solenoid for signs of corrosion or arcing. How about the clutch switch or the sidestand switch? Does the fuel pump come on?

I use Speed Bleeders from http://www.speedbleeder.com/ They have little check valves built in which eliminates having to repeatedly opening and closing the bleeder. SB8125L for the front and SB1010S for the clutch. One or the other for the rear. They are $7.00 each. Get the bleed bag too.

Your Harley shops know where the polishing shops are although they will be more expensive. Once the covers are polished they will need to be either clear coated or plated. Anodize does not work well with cast parts. You might think about chrome plate. The HD friendly polishing shops can recommend platers. My covers had to be copper plated and then nickel plated before the gold was plated on. There is another thread somewhere here about silicone gaskets available.

We rode only about 90 miles that day of which I would guess 30 were on gravel. A stop at each bridge allowed me to rub circulation back into my hands. I'm one of the probably 5% of this group that still has the stock clip ons. The back half of my bike looks like it has been powder coated a dirt color and ready to go in the oven. Guess I'll have to get another bottle of S100.

Just got back from the "Covered Bridge" Rally. Wife and I took a lot of pictures of the bridges spread all over the county. They say there are 33. Access to most of the bridges was by gravel road. I think 24 people registered for the rally in Bridgeton Indiana and a good time was had by all. I had the bike on its side to clean the dust out of the rear disc brake. Took all of 5 minutes to remove the caliper, spray it with brake cleaner and put it back together. It quit groaning after that. There was one other spine frame in attendance. A Centauro ridden by Sergio. A couple of beautiful loopframes were there. We ran out of space on the flash card or I would have taken more pictures of the bikes. One gal rode her bike to the rally so she cleaned up on the awards. She got long distance female, oldest female, and youngest female. I think we would have gotten long distance 2 up if they had that class. The weather was great all weekend. http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?show...Uy=-s8jsvg&Ux=0

I grabbed this from the Wildguzzi board. It may be applicable here. Has any one been riding there 2003 or newer EV or stone with an internal fuel pump and the bike will just stop running. You get spark your fuel injectors are working and the fuel pump kicks on every time you turn the key on but the bike will just not fire up. Well here is the problem and I suggest you take a look at it this ASAP because it will leave you stranded and it is not a one man side of the road fix. A man came in yesterday to pick up some parts for his 2003 EV II and not even a half mile down the road the bike stalls and shut down and he lives 75 miles away so this is not good. I go pick him up and bring him back to the shop and on some of these bikes on the internal fuel pump there is a crimped clamp on a clear hose that connects the fuel pump to the fuel filter and then to the outlet. Well the crimped clam comes loose and the hose falls off and the fuel pump just picks up fuel and circulates it in side the tank and not to the outlet. The fix is to take the tank off and unbolt the fuel pump and remove it from the tank (preferably with no fuel) which is a big pain in the but. On the crimped clamp cut it off and replace it with an actual hose clamp. The fuel pump and the fuel filter are actually suppose to be ziptied together and inserted back in to the tank but I found this impossible. So after you put the hose back on the pump with a good hose clamp insert the fuel filter in first and then the fuel pump back into the tank (a bigger pain in the but) put the tank back on and it should fire right up and you will be on your way but if this happens on the road it is a tough fix. Hope this help you out so you don't get stranded. _________________ Jason Speaker SPEAKER's CYCLES Steubenville, OH (740) 282-5399

[all down to the good nature of a particular dealer.] You might get similar results by; Offering to maintain his yard for the next 10 years Offering to maintain his computer Promising to marry his daughter Promising to not marry his daughter Telling him you might be interested in buying several more bikes from him if he'll only fix your paint.

I believe Rich Maund's solution also involved a good bleeding of the brake.

I carry a back up lighting system I can use in a flash.

These drain plugs have o-rings under their heads or a washer with an elastic sealer and as such they do not need to be torqued down super heavy. A good push or pull with the wrench supplied in my tool kit and I'm comfortable with that. As an example, if the wrench is 6 inches long and you are giving it 30 pounds of pull that is 15 foot pounds. Enough to hold a drain plug in place. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and there is no crud in the threads. I screw the plugs most of the way in by hand. If it sticks on the way in, I'll remove the plug and find the crud it got stuck on.

If your bike has the fuel pump and filter inside the tank perhaps the inlet connection is loose allowing it to draw air instead of fuel.

Pictures?

I think what he meant to say was, "Tighter than a Virginian."

When my shifter return spring went south it left me with no symptoms like yours. Check the long bolt the shifter lever pivots upon. Mine was overly tight and held the lever in both the up and down positions. That pivot needs to be lubricated occasionally.

It seems that the only thing out there is the aftermarket variety. I think TLM sells them.

I've had a lot of false neutrals. I minimized this by making adjustments to the shift lever to move the knob down. The transmission does seem to wear in and shift better over time.

But the Seattle coffee shops do not have that little extra that Amsterdam shops have.

Here is how I find TDC. Cranking the engine around by using the hex on the alternator I bring it around to where the intake valve has just closed. Here you are on the beginning of the compression stroke for that cylinder. I stick a straw into the spark plug hole and watch the piston come up. When it stops coming up it is at TDC. A buddy of mine will move the crank back and forth a little to find the loosest spot with his feeler gage.

The swivel adapter is long enough to reach through the tunnel in the swingarm. I've heard of some folks grinding down the body on the front of the swivel to reach between the u-joint cover and the swingarm. But, yes, this works. I bought the 3 oz. mini grease gun too. It has its outlet connection perpendicular to the body. I dispensed with the hose and screwed the pipe nipple in its place.

Those look great. Exactly what I was looking for. I may have to get 2 sets. I hope I can put them on opposite sides to move my wife's pegs forward and down.

Here is the swivel adapter I bought. It's called a "coupler 180 degree swivel" for $13.49 http://www.bizrate.com/buy/products__att25...,start--12.html

After my spring went south with only 7,000 miles on it I committed to carrying a spare spring and a Karma bell. I expect that spring (the installed replacement) to last at least 100,000 miles (8 more years). 400 miles is the longest day for me so far. The seat was no problem. It was my arms that were killing me although I should blame the high windshield for that.