felix42o

I wish I had sumpin cool to report. I've been so busy building baby furniture and complying with the wife's tasking that the only thing I've done involving the V11 was tip it over off the stand while I was messing around with my spoked wheel experiment and doing the 'probably not often enough' back end grease, clean and lube. The new Buell turn signals just arrived with the mail last week. Not wanting my hands totally grease-free, I've been helping a buddy of mine who just finished wedging a Ninja 650 motor into his KLR frame; we took that out into the desert for a test run, so all my recent mileage has been on my DR650. Lots of good desert riding out here, but maybe not as much as in Moracco. Nice part is, we're only ever a half an hour or so from a cold beer in the San Diego foothills. Maybe we need a "S*%t that's keeping us occupied while we're not riding our V11's" thread...

They don't even have to give up on the current motors being used. Sell 'em alongside, and let the buyers have the choice. You can still buy air cooled Ducs and Airhead-style BMWs. They just have 165hp monsters they sell next to them if you like.

BMW uses a re-packaged Rotax twin in the F800 with no loss in brand loyalty, and Ducati runs a very powerful V4 now in some of their bikes, but the dentists and lawyers still buy them. I think Guzzi could get away with an Aprilia-sourced water cooled twin in some sort of sport, or at least very sporty (Honda Interceptor comes to mind) platform without losing any face.

Glad you're happy with the bike. I'll assume you're being a bit facetious with all the performance claims, and would maybe recommend others try and do the same if only to keep the blood pressures under control

By most accounts I think 1100 is pretty spot on for idle. I think the two biggest reasons are oil pressure at idle and the other (according to a few of the gurus around here, not me) is that a low idle is harder on the splines and whatnot rattling around in there. If you're losing engine braking maybe this indicates an air leak somewhere? Mine is set right around 1100 and I don't have that particular problem. That said, I have no reason to believe that what works for one V11 should in any way work for the next, if experience means anything.

Not by a 'Poor little rich kid' window cleaner from Seattle with a handfull of parts from Pep Boyz and 'Wottalotacrap Auto' and a ravishing ignorance of the laws of physics they can't! Pete I think it's "Shuck's" auto up there...not sure if Pep Boys goes that far north.

Doubtful. They're an attempt at the same color, but AFAIK, the reported paint codes for the Tenni & the GriSEo are from two different manufacturers, so they can't really be exactly the same, ifyaknowwhatImean? Infinite variation, within a narrow range of inputs: Tennis & GriSEos are painted 'fractal green'! Well, I suppose that's true, but after seeing the factory and the town around it, I wouldn't be surprised if the paint was from some small shop around the corner, where they had a few gallons leftover sitting on some shelf. Probably not, but anything's possible.

I think, just like we went through originally in that other post, you're going to find there is no good "code" for the Tenni green. The best setup would be maybe to just have a painter who knows his stuff play around with it till they get a match, then have the whole panel done up at once vice an attempt at blending. At least then it's all a little bit off together. I know they're close, but I haven't seen one...are the Griso and Tenni the same exact color?

I saw one of these in white at the factory a couple months ago...very, very nice. I can't decide which I'd want either between this new Stelvio and the SE Griso. I do know that it's been a long time since there were TWO brand new Guzzi models I really, really liked.

On a carburator, the accelerator pump functions (as I understand it) to squirt a little extra juice on initial throttle openings to compensate for the lag in engine vaccuum right after the throttle plates open...maybe this is the same idea? It's supposed to help keep the engine from leaning out while Bernoulli gets his crap together in that first few seconds after you stab the throttle.

I think (minus the turn signals) it looks pretty nice and cohesive. Did we already forget TxRedneck's bike? It can be waaaaay worse.

Yes, I need to fatten up the gas mixture with the Power Commander. Now I have to go on-line and see how it is done manually. Don't think I have the CD that came with it, or can't find it. I do think I've done it manually. I think it was a matter of starting it, running it to a particular RPM that I want to modify and then add with the + button. Something like that. The software is a free download from the Power Commander site. Then (if yours is the PC3 USB version) you just hook up a laptop and have at it. You could also just use the buttons on the PC to fatten up the mix, but you can only adjust thirds of the map (low/mid/high). If I remember right, you just hold all the buttons down while you turn the key on to get into the adjust mode.

Sorry to hear the bad news. Could alway be worse, though, I suppose. I've always filled mine to the fill mark without the dipstick screwed in, which adds an extra 1/2" or so above factory. This has always worked for me, but then I can't say I spend much time riding up steep hills. The sump plate is the most accepted fix I think.

Did you tighten the allen head under the rubber stalk cover? Or is it the swivel on the mirror itself? Either way, Buell used the same mirrors on a few different bikes. Can't remember which ones exactly, but on one model they are the same length, and on another they're an inch longer, which alot of guys (myself included) were using for added visibility. A forum search here should turn up the info.

So I took another look at that wheel with a tape measure this afternoon, and it looks like both wheels are 5 inches (+/-) from bevel side to rotor mount. I wonder now if I was just making the whole thing up about the caliper spacing? I'll try to mount it up and take another look this week. If it's good, then all I'd be looking at is the cost of the new rims and spokes, and my efforts to clean and powder coat the hubs. That'd be most excellent!

The Cali wheel has the rear disc mounted further outboard than the V11's. Of course it's not a show stopper in the end, but it would be cool if there was an existing setup that might work. Also, I'm not real keen on cutting up the stock V11 bit just yet!

Yeah I looked at the alpinas via rossopuro...not cheap. It looks like the big issue will be the rear caliper mount. I discovered that, when mixing bike parts, "close enough" can still cost considerable money to get "just right". I just got done figuring out how to keep spokes on my BMW while swapping in a K100RS front end for the dual discs on my R90/6, and it involved more than a few eras of German technology to get it right. Anyhow, once I get done making baby furniture and putting my airhead back together, I'll press on the spokes for the Tenni. Does anyone know if the caliper mount issue can be solved by a particular models bracket (Cali, Jackal,etc)?

Go for it. I reeaallly want one of these Griso SE's.

A'la the Ducati 999? I like it.

I have no experience with a Kawi cylinder head in particular, but the valve seats should be hardened enough to take a good cleaning, then you should be able to lap a new valve in to match. Sounds good from my seat in front of the screen, anwyay. I'd certainly give it a go, as it couldn't end up any worse than it is for what you said about it's worth and running condition before hand.

Regarding the use of a Cali hub, has anyone on here done so? It looks like I'd have to figure out the rear caliper mounting, as at first glance I think the disc is positioned differently. Seem like the easiest option would be a rear bracket from a Jackal or sumthin, but who knows. This, like many other of my attempts at making stuff work to save money, could end up being more expensive than just buying a set from Alpina.

The front is just the hub. Both are used and would need proper rims and spokes. I think I paid around $40 for the front hub and $80 or $100 for the back wheel, but I bought them at seperate times between many expensive airhead parts and am not positive. Not much, though. There is the issue of the rear caliper mounts being different, and if I used the same guys (Woody's Wheels) I used for the R90/6 I'm building it'd be around $300-400 to get a proper rim laced up on the hubs. I was just going to powder coat the hubs black I think with my cheapo powder coat kit.

Welcome back, Enzo.

So I got this Cali rear wheel and front hub off fleabay for cheap. Sorry for the bad mobile phone pic, but what do you all think? Should I consider having these laced up to a proper rim and switch to spokes? I kinda like it, I think.

I had that happen on my last rear tire, right in the middle. Looked okay till a gas stop near LA and I parked it till I could get a new tire as well. Had to ride on the back of my buddie's ST1300 bank to San Diego, which must have looked rediculous. Two grown men in full gear on a Honda It certainly wasn't to the point it wouldn't hold air though. What do tires cost over there? A set of pirelli diablos cost around, what, $300-350 I guess.