felix42o

Yeah, I gotta say that's pretty ridiculous. Tire aren't that expensive...you don't need to buy top shelf tires to be safe. I hate to judge, but if you can't spend the money on basic consumables you probably should re-evaluate your need for a motorcycle.

It's there when it's stationary as well. I'm going to pick up a bolt to replace the missing one. Whenever I do something like thus, I normally take the whole thing off, clean/lube it, and reinstall. I just don't know what's behind the cover and if I need to worry about anything there. If it doesn't fix the rattle, I'll be back. I find it odd that I only hear it from 3k - 5k or so. The alternator is behind the alternator cover. Nothing to worry about there. 3-5k must just be the range where it vibes the way the loose thing likes to be shaken. Frequencies and all. Er something. Is it really a rattle or more of a buzz? Regardless, it's ALWAYS a good idea with these bikes to go around checking hardware. Don't be afraid of locktite, either.

I saw a factory worker on what had to be the next version of the Stelvio come roaring through the gates while I was there, back tire sliding all over the place and making a hell of a racket Pretty nice looking. The nice lady working the gift shop said they don't sell anything out of the factory. I think Agostini's is the first place out of the gates you can buy one.

You did miss out a bit on Agostini's...cool place. They didn't have a spare tach laying around, or any of the other little bits I'd hoped to find there, but it's still a cool shop. They had one of the V7 cafe racer bikes, too...it's a lot nicer in real life.

Pretty sure that's what's in mine. I believe all the V11's have the same ECU.

FWIW, I got mine through McMaster-Carr...a quick forum search will turn up the part numbers. I think I paid $62USD delivered for both front and rear. -edit- From my notes: Rear L&R # 6204-2RS (Dim: 20 x 47 x14) Front L # 6205-2RS (Dim: 25 x 52 x 15) Front R # 6304-2RS (Dim: 20 x 52 x 15)

Nope, still open:) I was just there about 3 weeks ago. They are planning a renovation of the building, but not closed...fortunately I think that was mostly just us getting all worked up about nothing.

No worries. When you use the search function, make sure you select "Relevence" in the "result sorting" field...otherwise it doesn't narrow down far enough.

Welcome to the forum. You should familiarize yourself with the search function...most everything about these bikes has been covered at some point in time, usually in far more detail than needed. As lifted from an earlier post... "To remove the rear wheel once the bike's rear is in the air, remove the rear brake bracket anchor from the left side of the swing arm. Next remove the rear axle nut. Now slide the axle out about 1/2 way. This will allow you to slide the rear caliper bracket down and forward to remove the caliper and bracket assy. from the rear brake disc. You can just let the bracket and caliper hang or tie it up out of the way. Now slide the rear axle out about 2/3 of the length. You will have to hold the wheel up to keep it at 90 degrees to the ground. Slide the wheel to the left and it should clear the final drive and rear axle. The small spacer is about 1/2 inch. long and goes between the final drive and wheel. It will sometimes stick to the wheel or final drive. Just look for it so you know where the little devil goes." As far as the axle goes, it's not threaded but I find that *light* tapping with a rubber mallet while turning it with the allen key helps to break it loose if it's being difficult. You're going to have to hold the wheel a bit to take some weight off the axle.

Nobody needs to see that again.

I agree with you for the most part. They're highly overrated and there's lots of testing showing they don't filter as well as paper, particularly if you don't keep them clean and oiled which I think most people don't. When someone makes a paper pod filter I'll swap. Till then I like the look of the pods and just clean and oil them alot. I don't use them in my cars mostly because they're out of sight hidden in the air box, and I will forget to check them in there. At least with the pods, I can see them readily and it's easier to keep them up to snuff.

I run the K&N's on mine, with the stock airbox tubes fixed between the throttle bodies and the filters to maintain the intake track length. I also have the air temp sensor thingy fixed in the end of the right filter. It runs fine. But it would be a lie to say that it runs better than it did with the air box. I run the pod filters purely for the look and sound. I like the clean appearance and the loud intake honk. K&N's are never going to give you as much protection as a paper filter, especially of you don't keep them clean and oiled. This is pretty well documented. But, I have multiple bikes and a few cars as well, so making my Tenni's engine last as absolutley long as possible isn't really a priority-if it needs a rebuild 10,000 miles earlier than it might have had I kept the paper filter I'm okay with it. Just know the trade-offs involved with any modification before you jump in.

Also, if you haven't done so, bleed all the fluid out and replace with fresh. There's a tiny orifice in the master cylinder that allows for the heat expansion of the brake fluid, and it can plug easily if the fluid is dirty.

Agreed. While you're at it, just check every connector you can get at. They used some pretty shoddy connectors at the factory.

From the web: Museo del Motociclo Moto Guzzi Via Parodi 57 23826 Mandello del Lario (Lecco) tel. 0341 709269 - 0341 709111 h 15:00 - 16:00 mon - fri, sat and sun only booking a visit. Thank you! Of course, as luck would have it I have to leave for Venice Friday morning. I suppose the tour will have to wait until our next trip out. We will just make do with pictures of the exterior and the surrounding area. I still plan on ferrying across tomorrow and exploring that side of the lake. I will keep the information on the museum as well.

Resurrecting an old thread here, but I am going to be in Bellagio for the next week or so, and am going to obviously visit the Guzzi factory across the lake. Anyone here know anything about the current hours it's open, or maybe have a good phone number? I haven't had much luck finding anything on the Internet. Worst case, we're just going to spend the day in and around mandello, but I'd like to gather any information I can. Of course I'll post pics afterwards. The wife and will be on the lake for the next week, then we head to Croatia. So good to be on vacation...

I'm not sure one way or the other...just a guess. It's probably like Tom said, with the extra tach pulse. Not a huge deal here, but alot of you out there are pretty savy with this stuff. Figured I'd throw it out for consideration before getting rid of a working tach.

Awhile back, I bought a known good tach from a wrecked Quota. It works (technically) in the v11, but the quota must have used a different ECU, as the rate the tach swings is much faster than it should be. In other words, once started, it shows an idle of roughly 2500 RPM, and moves very quickly towards redline with only a slight increase on actual engine speed. So. Any thoughts on a way to "calibrate" this tach to work properly with the 15M ECU's signal? Is it as easy as adding a resistor inline(although I'm sure it's probably not that simple) or should I just scrap the thought and sell the thing on eBay?

I'll tell you, I had one of those early (carb'd '02) SV's at my house for awhile rebuilding the carbs for a friend. Super easy to work on, and once I got it running I was amazed how quick and light it was. Even for my 200 pound ass, it got up and went much quicker than a 650 twin has a right to in my opinion, with a nice pull to redline. Even brought the front wheel up in first gear... If I had room for another bike in the garage and only had $2500 or so, that'd be where I'd be tempted to spend it. I think there's a good reason it's as popular as it is. 'Specially if your just looking for something to thrash around town on.

Buell? The XB9 I rode got way better than 40, and had decent power. The BMW's are expensive to keep up with, so that wouldn't be my first choice. Too bad you hate the SV's...I think they're a lot of fun, and they are dirt cheap. What about a KLR or DR?

I'll let you know as soon as I get the starter wires and battery upgraded to an odyssey so it doesn't almost leave me stranded down the road at the gas station after I fuel up. I moved my extreme thread jacking elsewhere. Shoot, I forgot about that. For a while there you had me searching around for a used one as well!

No worse than ole' txrednecks bike if I remember correctly.

What are you riding these days? Get another Aprilia?

Well, a couple things I guess. You have to change the direction of drive somewhere, either with a bevel in the engine, or the rear end. Chain wheels are cheaper to make and lighter, and the heavy bevel can at least be centrally located when it's around the engine. Then it's not unsprung weight. Also, judging by the angle of the block, which is tilted pretty far forward, maybe a shaft would have had the u joints angled more than you'd want, and that doesn't matter with the motus set up. Chains, like everything else mechanical, keep getting better and more reliable, and of course offer easy gearing options, as you mentioned. Also, the engine makes a lot of power from what I've read, and the guys behind it (Pratt and miller) aren't new at pushrods tech. These are the same guys that build the race motors for the vette lemans series cars. As for being another E-H, I dunno. There's a lot more than an S&S motor in sheepskin clothing relying on historic badging here, I think. But, you could be right. I really hope not. The bike makes a lot of sense as a contender to the st1300's and Beemer sport tourers out there, especially for those of us who would like an American entry in such a broad-scope category like this. If nothing else, I'm glad they're trying to do something with proven technology from the automotive world. The engine itself is reported to be looked at for a multiple four wheel racing applications as well, being intro'd in a cool bike to boot.