Janusz

I have better speedo then you guys. ha ha! Mine shows up to 240 but I have never seen it over 220 no matter how I'd try. But some time ago. more than 15 years ago, I've seen 298 (yes,yes, kilometers and in MPH it would be 185) on the empty road going from Waterton Lakes Ata back to BC, on my 2004 Yamaha R1. I've never went so fast before or after even on the track.

Thanks for all comments. I had very neat gear indicator on my 2004 R1 (Acumen brand?) and it was very useful. I gave this bike to my son so I do not ride it anymore. Yes, V11 speedo is cable driven so this type of indicator is useless. On my cruiser bike there is 5 speed and no tach but this rolling armchair is so easy and relaxing/boring that no sporting and engaging riding is feasible. So, I will have to continue to remember speed to RPM relations in top 4 gears to be able to guess the gear with accuracy. Pity.

And still you do not know what gear you are in...

Hi guys; I would like to install a gear indicator on my V11S. Anybody has one? Advice?

Hi Guys; So I am looking at Shop Manual and the first sentence in the "Transmission Shaft" towards the end, section "O" says: "Replace the shaft with transmission joints every 20,000 Km; if the motorbike is mainly used for racing type driving or usually high speed driving, replace every 15,000 Km." WHAT??? Is anybody doing this? Did anybody replace the shaft if its not damaged or broken? My bike is low mileage (47,xxx Km) and just changing tires last week I inspected and greased the shaft which turns smooth and looks like new. According to MG people I should be on my FOURTH shaft (I ride less last 12 years but still "usually high speed driving") Anybody cares to comment? Happy Easter everybody!

Thank you for this detailed and straightforward information, Marty. It is highly appreciated. And docc, you can be always counted on. Thanks. This crowbar surgery seems quite radical; should I expect the spline disc to be rust frozen and difficult to separate? I will be anxious not to damage it...

So I've removed wheels to have new tires installed at the shop. Should I disassemble the rear wheel and remove cush drive rubbers for tire installation and balancing or take the whole wheel to the shop? I would like to inspect/grease etc cush drive rubbers but it seems difficult to me and the factory shop manual is not very helpful. It wants me to: "Working on the opposite side remove the bearing and then lift the plate with gearing (do they mean spline drive??) using two screwdrivers." Could somebody walk me through this using simple explanation please?

I've got Vespa 150 and like it a lot. Great running short errands around. I live in the rural setting on the coast, no need to gearing up, no helmet, no insurance...Feels like I am 16 again when I had my very first motorized vehicle also called "wasp" but in Polish ( Polish "Osa" = Italian "Vespa" = English "wasp") Good times...

The first one (starter?) is Bosh - slightly bigger then other ones which are original factory relays black in color. The Bosh is grey. Some years ago I took off alternator cover off to repaint it. Is it possible I've pinched some wire? It is possible this charging light did not work since then, I practically did not run the bike for 11 years. By year 2011 I had 45,700 km on it, now is 46,800 km. I bought it new in 2002. I have it insured now and enjoy almost like a new bike. Janusz

Yes, the oil light works. After I stop the engine and turn on the ignition only right away the light does not come on, but after couple of minutes it comes on with ignition and extinguishes when engine is started. It is a residue oil pressure I suppose. No, the only thing is "no charging light" never comes on.

My 2001 V11s battery charge warning light does not work. I changed the bulb twice and no help. Alternator is charging, battery OK. Any suggestions how to diagnose/repair? I would really appreciate any suggestions. Janusz

My rear drive on V11S is leaking oil and I want to take it off and send to the shop for resealing. Tried to search but no success. i need some advice how to do it please. First, I take the wheel off (I have a proper stand); is is an easy and straigtforward operaton? anything I should know? Then I disconnect the torque arm- looks easy. But how and where I separate the rear end from the driveshaft? Are the two allen bolts which seem to hold the driveshaft to the rear box shaft the ones to remove and it will just separate? I do not want to start the job and the become stuck on something I do not know how to do it. Please help. Thanks.

I respectfully disagree. If the pinging is caused by too lean mixture (which is the case with a stock setting to begin with and then, after some modifications to intake/exhaust it becomes really excessive) then richening is NOT the short term solution BUT the only proper one and no carbon build-up is expected. Once again: first make sure the mixture is close to proper one and then worry about valves, TPS, idle, balance etc. Unless Im missing something. If that is the case please tell me what.

There is a different method of defining pump octane # in North America then in Europe. You should remember that. Canadian (and US) octane 87 is an equivalent of European 91/92. V11 Guzzi owner's manual specifies unleaded 95 octane RM ; as I said this is a Research Method octane # which is same as ours 91 R+M octane at most. The manual also specifies Benzina Super 97 RM which, as I seem to remember from my Italian travels, is a leaded gasoline. Anyways, my experience was that any engine pinging was caused by too lean fueling, especially extremely lean after opening an airbox and/or freer muffler. In my case adding fuel at pinging throttle/RPM points of Power Commander completely cured any pinging I ever had. Using too high octane gas is a bandaid solution bad for engine and bad for your pocket.