Janusz

One more thing; The main stress on the rear wheel comes from accelleration which is in one direction. The main stress on the front wheel is from braking which applies force in an opposite direction.

I just refuse to accept that an official Factory Shop Manual and also Owner's Manual would both refer to long time irrelevant and confusing situation. Also, since the front wheel is normally installed by some dealer's apprentice upon uncrating the bike, how it is orientated on our new bikes does not matter. But it is all speculations, "I thinks" and so on. Does anybody really KNOW?

OK, I am just about to install a new front tire (15,500 km) and just looked at my shop manual and also in Owners Manual.They both instruct to mount a front tire with its arrow opposite to the wheel rotation. Rear is recommended WITH the wheel rotation, like a common logic indicates. What is it? Why? It does not look like some mistake, it is very clear and in all these languages is the same. Anybody can explain?

Talk to your dealer who sold you the bike and misaligned or neglected to check the controls at pre-delivery set up. You paid for this set up dearly and deserve to have it done properly.

All this might and will probably work. But surely I am not unique and many other people would benefit fully from JUST relaxing (first consciously, later it will became subconscious). Also this way you can sit in any position like a sack of potatoes. I, for instance, when riding aggresively will sit far forward againt the tank and all my turns are so much faster. But again, the body is loose at all times.

You can adjust the stock lever height by lenghtening/shortening of an adjustable tie rod on your gearshift lever linkage. You have also two positions on the top of your triangular lever which change your foot lever stroke length.

Scott, here is my comment about shoulder/arm ache after a longer stint on the bike: This is what happened to me and your experience may be different. Some years ago while riding I did suffer from some of the above aches which I was convinced were caused by me not being very young anymore and/or not optimal seating position. Analgesics did help. Finally I started to consciously make sure all the time that all of my body muscles were totally relaxed. Thats it. That was the only reason of my discomfort. No pain whatsoever ever since. As an extra bonus my riding comfort, style and technique improved enormously.

I am not sure myself but evidently there must be some benefits since the factory specifies an "improved" clutch in Le Mans which is just a single plate one.

Did anybody fied his clutch yet? My Sport has a double disc clutch but I think at least Scura and Rosso and possibly Le Mans have a new and improved single plate clutch. I have the steepest uphill driveway this side of Mississipi and recently my neutral light sensor started acting silly. Also I just found out that a false neutral is very easy to find when stationary and idling. All that combined caused me to attempt at least twice recently take off uphill in a second gear or maybe even third. Today I almost stalled making the same mistake. The burned clutch smell was evident. Fortunately the clutch is not slipping and all seems OK. But I just wander if in the future will it be possible to retrofit a single plate clutch from the Scura into my bike. Anybody knows?

Don't chicken out now, Tim, go all the way and buy Sport. If you really need wind buffeting protection at top speeds you can always add this little classy flyscreen on.

When I switched from a stock size (170 ) to one size narrower (160) BT010 I was similarly impresseed with a lot better handling. I think that it is mostly result of the stock size being pinched too much by a narrow rim. From all I know i would expect Bridgestones 010 to be a better performing tire then Dunlop 220.

Aaaah, the window... Did you notice how a really minute change in a bike's angle off vertical dramatically change the oil levelin the window? This window is only good for a rough estimation of the oil quantity. Our tranny do not like overfilling. Simple as that. Just make sure that you do not have any more then .850 l and you'll be OK. Unless your seal is no good of course.

OK, here it goes... My Shop Manual and Owners Manual both state the correct amount which is .850 Liter and this is exactly what I've filled up with. My dealer obviously filled a full bottle which could have been either one liter or this silly US quart which is still too much being .954 or something like that. Also I do not think that dealer waited overnight until the transmission will empty as much as possible. Time is money for them and the whole oil change takes few minutes as we all know. So, I ended up with at least one full liter or more of oil in a tranny. At least 20% overfilled. Simple.

Now, for all it is worth let me just state the facts without any attempt to offer an opinion: I had exactly the same transmission oil leak almost everybody is talking about, the sloooow drop by drop showing up under. It happened right after I allowed the dealer do the first service. After the first check-up I am doing all the servicing of my bike myself so some time ago, at 10,000 km I switched to Redline Shockproof in transmission draining it as completely as possible and filling up with the corect amount of new oil. The level in the window afterwards was significantly lower then after the dealer's change. Since that time my dreaded oil leak disappeared completely. The bottom of the tranny is dry and clean.

When checking my valves I was looking for TDC marks on the flywheel but couldn't find them. Not that it matters so much but I am still curious if any of you guys have seen them or not?

Al, your post about racetracks disallowing "race cans" only indicates that the idea of drilling stock pipes is the best! Do not forget, for all everybody knows your pipes are still stock. Unless you enjoy swapping them back and forth...

So what is this web site address?

I think that stock mufflers look the best comparing to all this aftermarket product. I am looking forward that drilled mufflers will be enough sound for me and do not believe even for one minute that performancewise any of these aftermarket jobs will improve anything. Maybe 30 yrs ago that was the case but certainly not today. I would like to see even one person who changed to aftermarket mufflers and then WENT BACK to stock. Thats silly.

I strongly suspect that gas mileage statements have a lot in common with fishing stories. Some people calculate their mileage based on half of a tank used...

I did take the whell off and STILL am unable to reach the front zerk. Anybody who was successfull can once and for all explain that? Thanks.

Jimjib, I think thay your set up is the most sensible one and that is what I am slowly doing. I have a Power Commander now and the map there is the stock one (that's what the Dynojet installed, M706-001.MAP). I am waiting now for my Stucci X-over and then I am gonna drill the muffler. What I want to ask you is this: do you still use a stock map on your Power Commander or did you modify it somewhat to allow for drilled muffler and Stucci X-over. If you did change the PC map, how did you do it? Thanks.

I've got Power Commander on my stock (except K&N filter) bike and with a stock map (not zero map, which just passes whatever is sent by ECM) the bike runs smoother and throttle response is better and occasional backfiring is gone. Now, I am not saying that that is your cure, since without PC my bike did not experience your troubles. You would need to run it through carburation software and set up stock calibration. I understand not all the dealers have that or bother to know how to properly use it.

Yeah, but now the question remains: its because the dip has risen or the extremities fallen?

How tall are you and what do you weigh, Ian? Without that information it is difficult to properly visualize your modifications.

Just switched to synthetic in transmission while the engine is hot after the ride. I used Redline Shockproof Heavy. Will report if any changes noticed.