Janusz

Just came back from a hard run to Whistler and back with a new Bridgestone 010 160/70. The front still stock. Definite improvement. Easier to turn so much that I even added some turns to the steering damper. It also tracks in turn more stable. Confidence goes up.

Many people say that and it has a base on common logic too. On the other hand though many high end engines come with synthetic straight from the factory. But still, our engine is supposedly an ancient one, so maybe you should wait till break-in process is done and only then switch to synthetic. But on the other hand somebody stated, and I believe it, that a racing Agip oil filled at the factory is already a synthetic oil so what to do? My opinion is that it all really does not matter that much at all. Personally, since I allowed the dealer to do a first service (a mistake IMO) since it was free as a part of the deal and he changed to a mineral oil anyways, I run it till 10,000 km and just recently switched to my favourite synthetic. And then surprise!? The engine runs better .

Since you asked for it,here goes opinion of mine: 1 - Forget semi-synthetic forever. After reading plethora of information about all the motor oils (good example:http://forums.tdiclub.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=004152&p=) I came to conclusion that nowadays you can buy any good 100% synthetic which is based on group l or ll basestocks for the lower price then you admit paying for semi-synthetic ($6). Good example fot our bike is Mobil 1 15W/50 which I buy at Walmart for $6.25Can. All these oils are absolutely amazing with a huge margin of quality over what we really need. 2 - I am sure that the experiment would show used synthetic as better then even NEW mineral. But why stop there? You can easily have your oil analyzed and have it done for once and for all.

With all due respect I do not think this poll choices are well done. I ts not so important how long any oil will last since after a while all combustion byproducts and acids will accumulate. What is really important is that synthetic oil will protect the engine better and in more variety of temperatures. What made me a believer was a simple experiment which I do not think many people bothered to do. I did two things: first, took a favourite mineral oil and one of synthetics, rated with the same grades, in two separate small containers.Then I stuck them in the freezer for the night and poured them into the sink next morning. The other experiment is also revealing. Take two metal jar lids and pour these two oils in them. Them put them on the stove (I have the gas stove with a real flame). After you have it done any questions and doubts about which oil you should use will dissappear forever.

The people measuring their sag disregarding stiction are introducing a random error to their measurements. If they repeat their measurements few times the results may and will vary up to the amplitude of the unaccouted for stiction.

Al, the stiction can be measured as a function of a different height of your suspension when you release it in an UP direction as opposed to the DOWN direction. I did not make a mistake and my method describd above is the right and precise one. In short, you take TWO measurements as described above, both with the rider, gear etc. on. Then you have to add them of course and divide by two, which of course will give you the closest approximation of the reading if the stiction was zero. Is that clear now? The difference between these two measurements is a precise amount of your stiction then. Lets disregard the free sag in our discussion since it really is not needed in a process of measuring of the sag. I do not really know how to express it better in order to make it clear. Thats the problem of English As A Second Language people like me,I guess.

I hired a dealer to do the forks - easy but tedious work. You push down on the forks and let it extend SLOWLY. Then you measure them using your favorite method. Next you lift the front up and let it settle again very SLOWLY. Then measure again. The difference in mm is your stiction which represents the mechanical drag of your seals. If you neglect the stiction your sag measurements will be imprecise. Simiarly the rear stiction represents the friction of your linkage and/or swingarm.Normally it's markedly less then front. Anything less then 15mm of stiction at the forks I consider good, the good rear is almost negligible, maybe 2 or 3 mm on my bike.

So whats your front stiction now, Al - lets compare notes. I did not measure it straight from the factory but after first 1,000 km forks disassembly and new oil etc. mine is at 13 mm. I think its quite good.

The Redline technician rep Dave told me that the above mentioned gear oil does not deteriorate with use ever. In other words you do not have to change it at all really. When pressed he came up with a 3/4 year inyerval more for the curiosity sake or maybe getting rid of any unlike shavings etc. I believe that since modern synthetic fluids are really amazing. My automatic tranny in VW is practically sealed for life with no recommended fluid change at all. Even in air cooled engine like MG a good FULLY synthetic oil (not Castrol etc) replaced every 3,000 miles is a waste IMO. If you accept 3000 mi change of mineral oil you can easily double it with fully synthetic and still recycle better oil then even 1000 mi mineral.

Hyper, you can by Redline only in one store in Vancouver I know of. The name is Mopac, they are on Kingsway, phone 4354233. Redline direct # 707 - 7456100.

I am not surprised at all, Frank, not a bit. I will let the cat out of the bag and say that: I've always liked all Redline oils so got on the phone and ask what do they recommend for our Guzzi trannys and rear end. Long story short I ended up with theirs high tech new product which is called Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil; amazing stuff indeed which defies any classification. The internal fluid friction is on SAE 75W90 level but at high temperatures should be rated 75W250 since it provides three times the viscosity in the thin layers between the gear teeth. It also has 3% of friction modfier added so you should use it in your rear end straight (no matter how silly it sounds). Also, there was a slight leak (one drop but no dropping, if you know what I mean) at the bottom of my gearbox which I suspect was caused by a slight overfilling at the first, 1000km, change. This tranny is absolutely transformed (puns galore)! Smooth but positive. Our bikes need good synthetic stuff, brothers, they really do. I am also glad that you confirm that with your battlefield experience, Hyper.

Everybody would agree, I guess, that the idle, especially when new, is crap. Most of the bikes would stall when stopped and the idle is too low even when adjusted with proper software to factory specs. Well, I"ve had my share of this experience and yes, with mileage accumulating and engine breaking in there was a definite improvement but still not Jap perfect. There was nothing more to be done so I resigned myself to mediocre as good enough. Today was the day when I decided to finally switch to a synthetic oil. Since the engine lubrication is separate from clutch and tranny there is no motorcycle oil dillema for me - its old good Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic. After all was done I started the engine and was really stunned; instead of several seconds the engine started almost immediately idling definitely higher then before and oh so smoooth! An improvement so big in comparison to yesterday that a placebo effect is totally out of the question. I am a happy man now . Gotta go for a ride.

I have my Bridgestones front at 34 as per manufacturers recommendation (never listen to "knowledgeable" dealers) and no cupping whatsoever.

Paint job is also the same, John. The whole thing is just the same.

Yes, there must be a clandestine conspiracy there. The evil K&N people made their own cheap imposter gizmo but being lazy they just neglected to rename it. Therefore all their literature is plastered all over with Dynojet Reasearch logos and they even named it Powercommander lll ! Also, for no other reason then to camouflage it even more there made it look and work virtually identical. Hell, even packaging is the same. But no, they can fool everybody but not us. We will rather spend twice as much or more and buy the very same thing from our friendly dealer.

Anybody with 010 to comment please?

So, what is the difference between Stucci and Mistral crossovers then? Anybody please? Somebody stated somewhere that aftermarket crossover actually robbed some power on the dyno as opposed to stock. I would have to dig out this from my notes but it did not make too much sense since stock apparently includes a xover muffler.

My lifelong rule that whenever in doubt follow manufacturers recommendation did not disappoint me as yet. And I do not think ever will. Just common sense I guess.. Ahh, Guzziology. Even the latest edition does not specifically refer to V11Sport/LeMans valve clearances. What it does it though it talks about different specs for US models of Cali 1100S/EV/Jackal/Bassa and Sport 1100, where there was .002/.004 (.o5/.1 mm) or even .002" both valves as opposed to world specs .10/.15 mm for all models. For these bikes author recommends following the world specs. I suspect some less careful reader did interpret that there is a different specs in case of our (V11S, Scura or LeMans) bikes which it is not. I have yet to see other factory specs then .10/.15 mm. So until I do I will set my valves as such and foggetboutit.

You would be well advised to shift your weight more in turns and you will stop dragging so much and still go faster a bit. Any other tricks will be too dangerous on the street and reserved for the track. But again, our bikes are not the best suited for the track anyways, so what's the point?

I squeezed 10500 km off my stock tire and now will install B 010. I go for the size 160/70 since I am convinced it will perform better. Will report. The front looks still fresh of course.

I agree, these are great looking bags. I suspect less functional then Techno but really good looking. How much are they and do they have rigid mount?

Unfortunally, or fortunally rather since it is a lot simpler, our bikes are very different then V1100 i. You have to notice first of all that the computer (ECU) is Weber 15 M and not an old Weber 16 M anymore and this in itself is a world of a difference. I will not attempt to elaborate anymore since most of what I know is in an excellent factory Shop Manual anyway. To do these things you need an excellent fuel injection software which will enable you to obtain trouble codes, monitor all the sensors, record data and adjust the fuel trim. The software manual will give you all the answers.

I had the tank vacuum problem when the bike was new.Big problem, very strong vacuum after the ride. I got rid of it totally, easily and permanently. What you should do is this: 1 - remove both carbon canisters, all the rubber hoses, three way unions, breather valve etc, etc. All this constitutes your evaporative emission system for USA. Put it all in a nice plastic bag and toss it far, far away not to be tempted with it anymore. 2 - make sure that two breathers under the tank are connected properly: the left one, which is your gasoline overflow if you fill up too much, has a thin rubber hose dumping your overflow under the engine on the back of your oil pan. The other is your tank vent and you can leave the white plastic spindle valve there. This one goes on the right side of the engine and should fit in a twin hose holder below. Here, its done. From now on you will never know what's a vacuum problem or tank suck.

My TDI is the same color as V11S too - black! I did an Upsolute over a year ago; I also have bigger injectors and tranny is an auto - absolutely the fastest combination. The TDIClub on the net is great, by the way. You,ve got to disconnect CCV right away if you want the intake and intercooler free of goo.

From my many year's experience with car and bike dealers comes clear realization that you are much better off dealing with warranty issues yourself also. It might sound silly at first, but most warranty issues are just a matter of some adjustment or simple correction which, if you have confidence (which you will after some time) is easy, simple and timewise beneficial to deal with. Of course a major expense, like non functioning radio for example, you do take to the dealer. If you have enough rapport with them they will give you the new part, let do the work for them and accept the defective one. Believe me, they know how to screw up a simple thing like even radio r/r perfectly. When I bought a new VW TDI recently it came with a dealers free services during first two years. Even then my friendly dealer gladly agreed to give me all the filters,oils etc., stamped my warranty book and still remained friends. This way I KNOW my car is in perfect shape and will stay that way. It is easy to set up a win-win situation with everybody if you try with an open mind. My conviction is that all these "technicians" are just walking time bombs and chances are bigger then not everytime they touch your property they will screw something up. Even worse still - you have no way of knowing what it might be this time until a small invisible thing becomes a major problem in time. Stay away from them as much as you can.