motoguzznix

Ma complaints about the fork of my KR were pretty much the same like Toms: Poor damping and suddenly the fork gets stiff. I couldn't really enjoy the ride. Additionnally my forks were not sensitive in eliminating very small bumps from the road surface. The front was always "bumpy" and therefore forces were induced into the frame that normally wouldn't. That led to an unstable driving behavior from approx. 150 km/h upwards. Some years ago I played with the forks: set the ride height, tried out fork oils from SAE 5 to 15 and eventually backed off the holes in the damping tube. All of that was not a real success. I stopped my activities with that fork when I could get a set of Öhlins forks and rear shock absorber to a very reasonable price. Basically the Öhlins fork spring is too soft (had to adjust max possible preload for my 75 kg), but the fork is sensitive! The chassis is now stable at any speed! A friend of mine has a 2003 V11 with almost the same Marzcchi forks - is is black anodised and slightly taller - which always worked fine. I suppose the fork is different inside.

A reasonable price for these parts. When buying new it costs double r triple the price. When you want to swap from a single plate cluitch to this one, you have also to swap the clutch boss mounted to the gearbox as this is somewhat different. This clutch is bullet proof, just the friction plates have to be renewed on a regular basis.

Hi When the engine has a pinging issue, the ignition should be retarded, not advanced. The engine temperature sensor is on the inner sinde of the right cylinder. Unplug the sensor and check resistance. The Ohm values are included in the workshop manual. In case you haven't one, download it.

There should be a white paint mark on the inner side of the flywheel corresponding with the same mark on the crank. For the flywheel mounting it does not matter which TDC is adjusted. You will be right either on overlap or on compression TDC.

I wouldn't bother with a hotter plug. With an open exhaust your engine will run leaner than stock - a hotter plug is not the thing that your engine really wants in that case.

Roy There is no math relation between TP and rpm. There is a map with 16 TP lines and 16 Rpm rows which means there are 256 points to be defined. Every point can get an individual value that is equivalent to injection time. The values are defined in the course of the engine tuning on the dyno in the factory. A similar offset map exists for the tunning of the second cylinder and a third map aplies to the ignition timing. The TP adjustment assures that the engine works in the correkt area of the map for every running condition. Fooling the TP therefore is no good idea and will show downsides in some areas of the map.

Hi Ouiji There was a big thread about this issue in the past, find it here. This is not uncommon and not every ECU suffers of this. But some....

Hi I modified the cans, see in this thread: link scroll up and follow the link in my thread for more info

Hi You should take a look to the place where the two tubes to the oil cooler are connected to the oil pan. Inside the oil pan two tubes coming from the thermostat are sealed by an Oring to the oil pan. These orings must have a tight fit in the bore of the pan - otherwise the oil pressure gets lost when the thermostat opens the oil cooler circuit. You must remove the lower oil pan to get access to the tubes and the thermostat.

HI Guzz The TPS has to be adjusteed at 150 mV when the throttle is closed completely, not on idle stop. This has to be done with the linkage disconnected. Close the bypass screws. Then open the throttle to 510 - 525 mV. Connect the linkage, start the engine and synch the throttles. Now your idle speed should be around 1000 rpm. When too low open both bypass screws to the same amount, 1/2 a turn or 1 turn (revolution). I would recommend to perform this with the PC disconnected. Next step needs a CO meter and hardware/software to adjust the CO in the exhaust gas to 3,5 %. If idle changes, readjust id at that stage. Hope you get it.

I think rubber bushes are the best for this purpose. They dampen out clonking during load alternations what metal ball joints can not. And when these joints get just minimal play, the forces trnasmitted into the drivetrain increase dramatically. The bushes may live longer when you tighten the bolts front/rear with one person sitting on the bike during that activity. The bushes then have no tension at normal ride height.

Vuzzi When the valve play decreased, your gaskets had settled and the head nuts need to be retightened. After retightening the valves have to be adjusted as the play decreases further when the gasket will be compressed.

Hi Buzzard, Raz This is interesting for me too. I just have a Breva 750 im my workshop that shows sometimes poor power when accelerating. While doing a fault readout of the ECU with an Axone tester at the local dealer, we evaluated the voltage at the battery never went above 13 - 13,1 V. There were no faults stored in the ECU and the TPS was zeroed corrrectly. The Breva regulator is directly connected to the battery negative terminal, so an additionnal groundwire was not the true solution for this. With a new regulator the voltage increased to 13,9 V which is enough to laoad up completely the battery. There is slightly more to come when the engine runs for a longer time - just tried it in the workshop for a minute. I'm curious if the power losses are gone with that measure too...

Is your Ballabio equipped with O2 Sensor and catalytic converter? Edit: Just seen the other thread - at least your ECU is one for the catalytic converter. This changes things... There is no CO setting in this ECU with the extension "RC". The o2 sensor makes all changes obsolete as it creates a new correction map for Lambda = 1. You need an lambda Eliminator to be plugged in instead of the sensor - your power commander dealer can halp you in this case and might has a good map for your engine.

There are diagnostic tools available containing hard and software to do everything on the injection system. But this is not cheap - you will find a lot of information about this when searching in this forum. But the simplest way is when you go to a dealer who owns the axone tester and a CO meter. Let him make the adjustment of the CO value - 3.5 % - you have to do this only once and then you can leave it alone.

I see your problem but setting the TPS to 320 or 340 mV is simply the wrong way to overcome the lean condition of the mixture. The ECU then always works in the wrong area of the maps. After setting the TPS to 150/530 mV and having synched the throttle bodys at idle and part throttle, you have to set the idle trim in the ECU to 3.5 % CO at idle. IF the engine still refuses to perform well, you may try 170 mV and/or 4,5% CO and then reconnect the PC with an appropriate map. If the previous settings are not correct, the PC either will not work the way it should.

Hi Paul You did fine doing so and if the engine does not perform well it is likely the CO setting in the ECU is too lean. To change this you need an axone tester and a CO meter. A well equipped Guzzi dealer should be able to do this. Set it to 3,5 % CO. This is an important step in the tuning procedure and richening the engine by setting the TPS to a higher mV figure is not the correct way as was described in some posts above. If the CO figure is correct you may have to open/close the bypass screws slightly to get the correct idle speed.

Jihem This is a good summary of the problems that may occur. But only issue 2. makes the clutch slip. There are the following opportunitys that make gearbox oil enter the clutch: 1. There is the seal ring in the clutch housing 2. There are two conical shaped rubber seals at the rear of the clutch pushrod - access from the rear of the gearbox. 3. If the hub is not tightened correctly, oil can enter by the Orings underneath. Either of them can lead to clutch failure. When engine oil enters the clutch housing it normally finds its way to the bottom hole outside the clutch. Good luck for your repair

Muffler conversion Here is the link to the description of my muffler modifications. I did this on two sets of mufflers and got good gains, evaluated with dyno measurements. Most people here prefer the use of aftermaket cans with a noise level reminding the pearl harbour attack. Mine are not as loud, but neverthehless sound good.

You make me fear about the size of my fuel tank as ist is now almost 2 years off the bike because of my incident repair and other conversions. Will try soon if it still fits....

When I was in Mandelle in June 2009 I got the right gaskets at Stucchi

Stock gaskets are always 1.2 mm. The aftermarket offers 1.7 mm too. These are on the upper limit for a working squish clearence.

I did no comparison runs on a test rig. But I have had a lot of valve train parts in my hands and have seen deep grooves of wear in them. An I have seen home tuned engines wearing fast the valve train parts out of this reason. When the angles described above get tighter the forces involved increase dramatically. This can be calculated easily. I can't back up by figures how much longer/shorter the parts last if everything is is right/wrong, but the influence is not negliable. I learned this the hard way doing things wrong myself when I was beginning to work on my Guzzi engine. Concerning my own V11 I was milling 1+0,45 mm off head/cyilinders and I use a reground cam with the same lift and slightly shorter timing to overcome the difference in pushrod length. A new Guzzi cam starts with a base circle diameter of ~ 28 mm. A reground cam has a base circle of approx 25-26 mm. This difference compensates for a pushrod length of 1 - 1.5 mm which is exactly what is needed for the V11 engine after everything is machined. The stock V11 cam profile is a good one and it is hard to find a better one without sacrifieing power in the higher/lower rpm range. It is a good compromise for a sporty Guzzi engine and is very similar to the ancient Guzzi Sport cams available by tuners, p ex Dynotec 7906 and others. With the now 1064 cc engine the engine character gets less cammy allowing a wide power band. So reworking the cam to the original spec is not the worst idea.

At the first attempt, me too removed 1/2 of the chamfer. But to get a serious squish area I removed the complete chamfer in the meantime. But no experience yet, the engine is still not in service. I'm sure it will do better.

If your ECU is reflashed, it is not possible that it reverts to the original map as this is no more in the ECU. If your bike is equipped with catalyst and closed loop regulation, the correction table generated by the lambda sensor can be erased in this case. After some driving time, the correction table will be generated from new.