motoguzznix

Alex I enter this thread late, but the check above would be on of my first checks when the fuel pump does not work. If there arrives a positive voltage at the pump and it does not work, everything is clear. There are aftermarket fuel pumps available, I once installed a Walbro pump into a Centauro, works perfect. Car parts supplieres should have comparison lists to find a cheaper one. Price of the Walbro was 1/3rd of the original Bosch pump supplied by Guzzi (approx. 115 € if my memory serves me well). Forget to repair the pump, it is hard to dismount without distroying it, a rpair is definitely not in the plan for such a device.

Raz You did the same swap like I did two years ago and had the same resuts. I did not strobe mine but the idle is perfect since then. The "chain sound" you noticed is typical for the stucchi tensioner and will decrease with increasing mileage, maybe disappear. I would also have changed the chain at that mileage as it it not too expansive. I recommend this to Ratchet.

Martin The oil pressure switches used by Guzzi arre of very inferior quality. A new one often fails out of the box. There are better ones aivailable that fit perfectly. Older BMW boxers use switches with the same thread and Hella has a better replacement in stock. I'm sure you will find more info when surching in the forum. An other opportunity is the +supply for the control lights in the dash. There is only one red or red/black wire that supplys all lights in the dash, so well woth checking it.

Pete I totally agree with your statements on the chain tensioners. Some years ago a friend of mine installed a P3 cam together with the standard Guzzi spring loaded cam tensioner in his Cali 2. The P3 cam causes very brute valve accelerations and has almost no ramp on it. He noticed a rattling noise from the timing chain at approx. 3000 rpm. When the tensioner was replaced by a stucchi device, the noise was gone. My conclusions: the standard tensioner is good for the standard cams that cause very modest valve train accelerations. Even there it is on its limit (only at idle) when you consider the problem stated by ratchet. An engine with a hot cam shold have the stucchi tensioner in it. On my own engine I would not have replaced the stock tensioner as there was no indication for a malfunction. but the engine was apart at 9000 km because I had to balance the crank due to the severe engine vibrations. So I installed the stucchi tensioner when reassembling and noticed the idle is completely steady now. Ratchet Thank you for performing the measurement with the timing light. This is really enlightening and generates a fact out of the theory. Let me add some words to Petes statement. The reason for that scatter is the oscillating rotation of crankshaft and camshaft. The crank is accelerated when the mixture burns and is decelerated when the pistons come to TDC and BDC because the pistons have to change direction which costs energy. If you take a look at the camshaft along the axis, you will notice the concentration of cams on one side of the shaft, whereas the opposite side is free of cams for a lot of camshaft degrees. This is why the camshaft of a 90° V-engine is very sensitive to oscillate during rotation and needs accurate tension of the chain to prevent the oscillation. When the cam begins to open the valve, the chain tension increases as the valve spring forces have to be overcome. Every time when the cam rotates over the max lobe, the follower wants to accelerate the camshaft via the valve spring forces and so reduces cam tension. The first three lobes follow very close to each other but after the last lobe there is enough time for every play the valve train likes to do. Especially at idle speed the cam has so much time to decelerate that the scattering can be made visible with the timing light. The cranks oscillating rotation is now the driving force for the cam that itself oscillates and the combination of the two results in an oscillating movement that I can't imagine in my brain, but some mathematics should be able to do this. I do not care since the stucchi tensioner is able to cope with this.

Should I own different Guzzis since 24 years than you all? On my Guzzis the rocke shaft fixing screws are always M6. On every one of my 3 Guzzis from 73 to 2000. The screws are always 8.8 and as such the max torque is 10 - 12 Nm. But I never used a torque wrench to fix these screws as my right arm has the correct torque for M6 stored.

I agree, the stock oil filter is an ugly device in front of the engine. I would use the older Guzzi oil filters prior to the 1100 models. The diameter is only slightly smaller, but it is much shorter. The fixing thread is different, so you need the fixing bolt from the older engines. Should be available from every Guzzi spare parts source.

Shawn This seems to be an inserted steel plug. Dismount the cover, unplug it and reinstall it with a good sealer (green Loctite) after cleaning and ungreasing.

When using the axone or ultimap diagnose system, there is an opportunity to read the software code from the ECU. It would be worth to do this on different TI kit and stock ECUs for comparison.

There should be no difference except the Jackal has a steel rim and the Cali EV a light alloy one that allows for tubeless tires.

Yes, it is the stucchi tensioner. It's a good part. If your bike has covered more than 50 000 km on the clock, you should change the chain too. Then forget it for the next 100 000 km.

I agree! tear it apart. I would complete it with stock parts - it is lots cheaper. And the stock flywheel never breaks. Use surflex discs, these never break apart. I would only swap to an other clutch when the teethes in the flywheel are severely worn.

I had a similar behavior on my LM2 for about 50 000 km. There seemed to be two clutch engaging points. When I dismounted the clutch it turned out to be loose rivets on one clutch disc. In this case the clutch can last for a long time if you are not a wheelying the bike or performing other misuse with the clutch. The V11 discs are the same make like the Cali 1100 discs which tend to break betweeen friction liner and hub. When one disc is broken through, the remaining disc is no more able to manage the engines torque and will slip. If this is the case, that the one disc is almost broken through, the slipping will occur soon and engine gearbox dismounting is then needed.

Graham the rear drive boxes of Centauro and V11 are very different. The Centauro sports the rear drive introduced with the Daytona which is a slightly modified box common in every Tonti Guzzi. The V11 box is a newly designed one that is only used in the V11 vehicles. I doubt there will any bearing fit into the other box.

There is no need to pull the engine. Dismount the alternator and pull the timing cover. You need a special tool to loosen the crank nut. Everything else is easy. Reassembling the chain and sprockets with the strong stucchi tensioner is a little less easy but worth the effort.

When the starter solenoid is ticking all clutch an neutral switches work like they should. Check the battery cable connecting screws and the connection to the starter motor. Check as well the connection to the frame. When all connectors are tight and the bike still refuses to start, load the battery or try a good one. 90% sure your bike will start at this point. Concerning the relays: one - the starter relay - is necessarily a 5 pin type. All the others can be a 4 pin type, but a 5 pin works as well. When you do not touch the starter button, the current runs through the starter relay to the light relay. When there is no light, you should check if the light relay is activated by the starter relay. When you press the starter button the starter relay is activated, the connection to the light relay is interrupted and the battery tension should be at the starter solenoid. Pull the 6.3 mm connector at the starter and check voltage when the starter button is pressed.

Andy The distance between upper and lower spring collar should be 35 mm at closed valve for the outer spring. This can easily be measured by a calipper. This corresponds to 31,5 kg seat pressure and makes the valve train reliable up to 8500 rpm where the rev limiter is set. If the distance is at 36mm, the preload is reduced to 25,2 kg and the valve train limit to 8200 rpm. If you hit the rev limiter in case of your next fireblade meeting, the safe valve train limit might be exceeded. Take these measurements during the 1000 km retorquing. Setting the spring preload much tighter than the Guzzi specs is not recommended as the valve train forces and corresponding wear increase. You may also come too near the spring block height. Sorry for posting this too late as I couldn't afford the time to read through the post earlier.

Here is a photograph from the crack. The gearbox is upside down in the photo.... I inspected my own gearbox and there is no indication for a crack in this area. The oil escape seems to occur at the front gearbox seam and is hard to detect as the seam is hidden by a stiffening fin in this area. I will try to fix it with a sealing compound applied on the seam surface.

The stock hugger needs in addition a mud guard below the lower shock mount. I cut one from plastic material to fit into the triangle formed by the struts from the shock mount to the left and right of the swing arm. Simply fixed by cable ties. Simple, invisible from outside and very effective. Gearbox and shock remain dry in case of rain.

Older V7 and V7 Sport (I own one) engines had the oil pump run in plain bearings in the engine cases light alloy without any bushings. These were driven by timing gears, no chain. Under these circumstances, they lasted, but they never last with a chain drive. With the swap to chain drive the oil pump changed to the double needle bearing design as the V11 still sports these days.

Ratchet A fixed adjustment was in every Guzzi engine until the end of the 80s. This was the worst case solution, because the chain looses tension after very short mileage, and no one pulls the timing cover every 10 000 km to readjust the chain. At least after 30 - 50 000 km the rail was adjusted to the end of the scale and from that point the chain was always loose. A new chain is necessary to solve the problem. So, why going back to stone age when better solutions are available? Even the stock tensioner is better than a loose chain over most of the time.

I would not worry about the oil pump needle bearings as these can be replaced in case of wear. I would worry about the camshaft bearing that is without oil pressure the first few seconds after starting the engine. But my observation shows no wear within my mileages. The stock tensioner would by design not benefit from a stronger spring. Tension force would not increase noticably by this measure. The best way to go would be a tensioning rail with a fixed low tension (to adjust) supported by a hydraulic tension device. Hard to get under the guzzi timing cover.

I am somewhat surprised that there exist people who refuse to accept the posibility of failures on these bikes. I can add at least one further gearbox with a crack on the left side of the upper gearbox mount. Engine torque always contributes to this failure and the material is thin and weak in this area. The bike is a 03 with the lower struts, 15 000 km on it. My 00 leaks since km zero from the gearbox, now I will check it in this area too.

I replaced it because I do not trust it. The low tension force of the stock part is not sufficient according to my experiance. The stucchi tensioner is much tighter, some call it too strong. But I have used the stucchi part for 70000km in my LM2 without any bad effects. After that mileage, the plastic material of the tensioner showed only minimal wear. That encouraged me to install it in an other engine which had to be rebuilt on a very small budget. This engine (a Quota) ran a further 25000 km since then and still works perfect. So there was no question for me to istall the stucchi part after my engine disassembly. Whether the stock tensioner nor the stucchi can be adjusted. The stock tensioner is by design not able to give enough tension to the timing chain. When you pull the timing cover off you can feel how weak this little spring is that presses the tensioning rail against the chain. This works with most stock camshafts, but when used with a good old P3 cam in a Cali2 engine, valve train acceleration cannot be controlled by this tensioner. In a certain rpm range, there was a metallic noise from the valve train that went away with the use of a stucchi tensioner. I know that some people disagree and call the stucchi tensioner too strong. But my experiance shows good results and longevity with this very simple and cheap part.

camshaft nut wasn't tightened......

Ratchet Since I replaced the cam chain tensioner by the stucchi part during my engine disassembly, the idle is absolutely perfect on my V11. Nose The adjustment of the TP to 150 mV at closed throttle has to be very accurate, the 500 to 525 mV at idle is less importent as the range in voltage indicates. Set the valves to the 20/25 spec. Every Guzzi Engine runs better at that spec, especially at idle speed. The idle CO can be adjusted via the axone tester by your dealer, 3 to 3,5 % is ok, no more. This is a better way than by the power comander as the ECU allows it. CO adjustment is the last step in the proceidure after TP, valves, throttle balance.