Nicholr
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About Nicholr
- Birthday 02/08/1953
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My bike(s)
V-11 Lemans 2002, Laverda Jota, Re5 Suzuki, Gt 750 Le mans beast
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I am looking for a straight pair of 40mm Ohlins for 2002 V-11. 'Rebuild required' is ok.
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Greetings all, After a sh port summer of sweet riding my 2002 Le Mans has created a 'honey do list' for me to deal with. The eternal speedo replacement (done), heat soaking (wrapped and isolated), broken kick stand (replaced and reinforced), indicator lites out, da duh da duh. I have 2 open issues that I need help on. After determining I had 3 burnt bulbs (blackened out ?) the lites now all work except the lo fuel lite. Connections all look ok. Any ideas? Issue two the bike has developed a weird condition at start up. Key on, ignition button pressed, lites on NO CRANK. If I wiggle the bars mocking a very lo speed tank slapper it starts. It there a likely connector that causes this? I installed some MPH bar risers last year and did have to clip the harness zap straps extending the harness range but it ran to Sturgess / Yellowstone and back without a problem (3000kms). All help gracioulsy accepted. regards Nicholr
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HI All, I think this one has been discussed but I am fresh back from a long ride and need some wisdom on this malady. I just returned from a 5 day 2200 km trip thru Montana and the Kootney Mountains. During the ride it was hot out (85 plus) during which I had severe fuel boiling issues (vapour lock type) after a decent run. The bike would not restart after a hot drive unless I refilled the tank completely. Very little burp when the tank was opened at any time. However, while stranded nowhere near a gas pump I determined that if I undid the fuel return line (it runs from the fuel filtre past the injectors and back to the tank thru a valve on the passenger rear side of the tank) that line would sputter like mad and vent fuel and air for about 10 seconds and then stop. The bike would then start fine. My bike is a 2002 V-11 Le Mans and has an external fuel pump. I am wondering if this valve is some type of one way vent that may not be venting the fuel lines after shut off allowing the system to pressurize and as such is defective. There are two spigots on this valve. The large one takes the fuel return line and the small one has nothing attached to it ? A buddy at the event I attended recommended the wrapping of the fuel lines in aviation type insulation which I will do but is there more going on here than simple heat soaking? Any advice is appreciated. Nicholr
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Hi Dan, Great advice. I went to local jobber and bought a small suction type pump and bleed the system with zero difficulty. I guess you were right about the line length possibly holding a bubble. I appreciate the help to all. By the way the MPH bar backs are quite a clever solution to the low bar woes. Very adjustable and just waht the chiropractor ordered. Many thanks and have a great riding year ......
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Thanks for the thoughts Ryan, I put the ball back into the slave as I was pretty sure that was were it came from. I was just concerned that there mught have been a small spring in the slave holding the ball shut like most check valves. Very strange condition. I can remove the bleeder from the slave and when I work the clutch lever I can push brake fluid thru the system. At that point I am thinking I have pretty much purged the air thru the new line. I re-install the bleeder, tighten it and pump the cluthch lever to try and build pressure. It doesn't, so I pull the lever in, and try and bleed thru the bleeder (quarter turn to open with lever held in). I repeat this process like you would for bleeding a caliper and I get no purging and no pressure no matter how many times I repeat the process? Feeling fairly dumb here especially as with this kit you also replace the front brake lines which I did with no hiccups whatsoever. Must be a low pressure system moving in as I am seriously 'dumbed down' by this !
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Hi All, I have just installed the MPH bar/back riser kit on my 2002 Le mans and for reasons I cannot fathom I now cannot bleed the clutch and get any lever presuure. Worked fine at project start this morning prior to my diddling. Two questions as the MPH kit instructions are 'light'. One: does it matter which way you install the supplied clutch line? And two: I removed the bleed valve from the slave to purge the original line before replacing it. In the acitivity I noticed a small ball bearing on the floor below the bike that I guessed was a check ball from the bleeder orifice. As I don't have an exploded diagram of the slave I am wondering if somehting else is supposed to be in there and now isn't. Any suggestions? Nicholr
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Absolutely no offence intended and thanks for the tip BUT, they are kinda ugly. Are they purtier in person ??
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Hi all, Sorry if this has been covered but after much searching and some follow up I have been unsuccessful in locating a reliable option for moving my bars back and up. I have a 2002 Le mans and I want to move the bars up 1-2 inches and back 2-3 inches. I did see an article about the Two Brothers system which intially looked promising and then (according to the article) seemed to go sideways when one of the components failed with Two Brothers not being very helpful. I downloaded the Two Brothers product catalogue but could not locate the item featured. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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After a year of trying to find a 'pre-owned' set of Staintunes for my 2002 Le Mans I suspect it's time for a 'retail experience'. The gravel is coming off the road and I feel the need to ride. I have been trying (with little success) to locate a Staintune dealer in my area (Alberta/B.C. Canada) who I am comfortable dealing with for this product. For the most part I get shrugged shoulders or heavily surcharged prices. While I always try to give the local boys first right of opportunity this request keeps coming up cold. Therefore I need to ask the group if they have any recommendations. I hope this request does not cause a breach of protocol and Veep I apologize in advance if it does. I am happy to deal in the Pacific Northwest and or Northwestern states as I will be travelling there soon. This is a 10 hour drive so is easy peasy. As an adjunct, for any of you have used these slip ons can you share your thoughts as to whether a Power Commander is a must do item with this swap or not. I have heard passionate positions supporting yes AND no ? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
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I am looking for new or used Staintunes for my 2002 V-11 Le Mans. I wanna hear her bark !!!! Calgary Canada
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Hi yall, From my wanderings thru the various forum inputs I suspect that mine is probably not a new subject but as I am new to Guzzi it is a topic that I am really disappointed about. I am working at putting my new 2002 V-11 Le Mans back on the road. I bought the little darling with crash damage included. Thru several club members and Reboot I have happily been able to get some of the small parts I needed. On the down side I have been trying since last year to get parts from the factory (USA). Although my dealer is a box store representative of the marque I honestly believe that the fault is not his. Anytime I go in for a bit the part must be referenced on a micro fiche (yikes) and then faxed to Guzzi for pricing and availability. I started this resto last October and at that time the reply process took about 3 weeks. In November I completed the process for a faring and faring inner structure which I ordered and paid for. Since that time I have heard nada. The midly berrated young dealer parts guy says that seemingly the US parts warehouse has gone 'walkabout'. It's a good thing these guys don't sell insulin. What gives? Anyone heard a timeline for resumption of trade? Is there a way to go direct to Italy for parts? Any suggestions for an alternate OE parts source would be much appreciated. nicholr
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Can anyone suggest the best route to proceed to procure English workshop, owners and parts manuals for my 2002 V11 Le Mans? I ordered a disc from E-bay but it is at best interesting. Ron Nichols
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Thanks for the thoughts guys. Here's a little more info that comes to mind. The tank is full, all fuses are ok and I have pulled and resecured all the relays, This bike is a new 2002 with 885 kms on the clock. When the crash ended it was running and was shut off by the key. The choke button was lost in the tumble. If I use an aul to physically advance the choke cable it trys and eventually starts. No adverse engine noise. However, the slightest attempt to add throttle, even feathering it with choke on and the motor stalls. It somehow feels fuel related. Once it starts if I do nothing it runs for 30 seconds and then sputters out like the fuel cock is shut off. Repeated attempts to keep her running will allow the engine to get warm and run without the choke, but not keep running. I have purchased a shop manual and parts catalogue which I intend to study in depth. As the tank was scuffed and needs a cut polish I hope to see more when that component is removed. Due to the tunble I am suspecting a stretched or strained harness and that is why the fuel cock wiring issues with V11's struck a cord. I appreciate your thoughts and will share my findings as I delve deeper.
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Hi all, It's the 'new guy' again. I have a 2002 V11 that high sided sustaining very minor 'ancilliary' damage. Faring inner structure, faring, marker lites etc. Happily the frame, wheels, forks are all true and unscathed. My broken brother, the previous owner states that after the 'event' he shut the bike off ... read it was running. Now that I have her home and am beginning the rebuild I find that she will start and run but any application of throttle causes her to quit. The bike high sided and tumbled twice. I have been reading in the forum seeing that the petcock wiring can be problamatic with this model. Possibly the harness got stressed and she is not getting adequate fuel supply due to wiring issues? I appreciate that under these circumstances anything is possible BUT .... any thoughts?