Keith Foster

Hey DeBen, in the MGNOC newsletter I just got today there is a set of the Ti pipes for sale. $700, the guy says they are perfect. Good price, I'd jump on them but I already have 'em. Contact info is Rob Swan, Murphy, NC 828-835-9165. Good luck. Regards.

I am also tempted by this mod. Please post some pics as they always encourage me when I see them. I second you on that snow/cold weather deal. This time of year the days drag!

Yes, thanks Al. I've emailed a fellow Mike I believe fom the Centauro site about putting me in touch with Clyde Gale. I'll let you know what reply I get.

Best? I've used the kind sold for snowmobile/ATV's for several years on different bikes. They are a heating element with an adhesive backing, Hi and low circuits. Cheap, dependable and use what ever grips you like.

On the cost, I don't know? More shipping cost? I had the idea that the coating was sensitive to oil/grease. I have a couple of marks, but I did the work on a table covered with a towel and kept my hands clean. I even took off my wedding ring to avoid rubbing gold into the surface (honest honey, I've been in the garage all evening, I put my ring in the tool box ) On the front crossover I used some SS sleeves that a V11LeMans.com member had made + sold last summer. I bought a pair as a preventative measure back then. I also had bought a pair of the OE graphite sleeves, but I didn't use them.

Thanks for the compliments Brian. I wouldn't say that the stock crossover is of poor quality, as in materials or construction or fit, maybe poor performance (by some's opinion) but not poor quality. I have entertained a Stucchi, but for several reasons I've passed on it. Funds, fit issues (as I've read), need to remap are some items. But mainly I am unconvinced that the Stucchi is is all the deal that people claim. I've seen the posted graphs, and I'm considering a PC III later this year (because my bike is set up really rich). But the crossover? I'm luke warm on it. Being that I can pull a good 3-4 foot power wheelie in 1st gear I'm not so hot on a handful of extra hp for the coin involved. Here is a couple of observations - someone here posted some pics of the stock crossover they sawed up. I couldn't see where there was an obstruction to flow in it. When I dismantled my exhaust I ran a piece of wire into the crossover and I didn't run into anything, the wire ran out the same side outlet and rattled all around. I'm no exhaust designer, but if the stock crossover is quite open as I think it is, I wonder how much bang for the buck the Stucchi brings to the table? My $0.02

Hi all, I hadn't really cared for the blue/purple color the headers were turning near the port after 6880 miles. So, being that it's been cold+snowy in the north east US I decided to send out my exhaust for coating at forum recommended Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA. The color I chose was what their web site described as "satin fresh blast". My hope was that it would be close to the silver color of the cylinders. As you will see in the pictures, it is very close (to my eye). I had the headers, front crossover and under-engine crossover coated, inside and out. It cost me $150 for the whole job, including shipping from Maryland to Washington and back. $110 was the coating charge alone for the 4 pieces. When I reassembles I used the set of metal sleeves that fellow member Aaron Bard had made/sold. Things were tight going together, but I sure won't have the rattle anymore. I also took this opportunity to grind/file away all of the weld spatter that peppered the system. The pipes look so much better without all of these pimples. For all of the hour I've had them installed I am quite pleased with how the job turned out. I didn't coat the Ti mufflers and connector pipe, so some of you may be turned off by the two-tone effect, but I'm digging it so far. We'll see how well this coating holds up through the summer. Cheers !

Hi Richard, welcome to LeMans ownership, great bikes with loads of chrisma. info on the oil filter acess cover can be found here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...787entry24787 Come on spring!

Hi Cantaloop, if the version you will have made will include an extension to cover more of the tire i.e. in the direction of the swing arm pivot I would be seriously interested. I agree with many on the list that a hugger with an extension to block water spray and stones would be a welcome addition. Let us know the possibility, regards.

I've had this same sound from my Nero, so far I just ignore it and ride. I don't think it is anything serious. It seems to come and go a bit, or I've tuned it out. 7K miles and no issues for me, YMMV.

A little OT, but the more I look at different sports on the web or in mags, etc. the more I am blown away by the coin that Red Bull drops on sponsorships. They have their hands in all kinds of stuff. I read today they bought the ex Jaguar F1 team Yikes! They must sell a ton of the drinks and at $3.00 or so a whack there's a lot of profit I'd imagine.

Skeeve, the seat release is a keyslot on the right side of the bike, under the side cover, forward of the swing arm pivot. Insert your ignition key and turn 1/4 rotation and you will hear a click/pop kind of noise. Grab the seat strap and jiggle around to release it. It lifts right off.

T - throttle P - position S - sensor It tells the ECU how much you have the throttle yanked open, so it can tell how much fuel to squirt, what the ignition advance should be, etc. They are located on top of the throttle bodies. Black gizmo's.

I too like the billet look or techie-ness of the older porkchops. If they don't interchange, could one remove the stock V11 plates and have a hole in the center machined out?, like the 1100 Sport plates?. It looks like it covers the big frame tube the same as the Sport does, but showing off it's "lightness" - like the Beemers do now on the rear axle - humpf, copy cat Germans

As rrbasso says, my Ti exhaust kit came with the same "TITANIO" label/sticket on it. For what it's worth, I ran this one for a week or two, but switched back to my stock one. When I take the bike in for it's 6K service I might have them reinstall it and see if they can make it work any better.

I have the factory Ti set up as you mention. I love the sound, the looks, the weigth savings. Was the race ECU the cat's meow? No, it also had a 3000 rpm stumble like my OEM ECU had, and didn't seem noticable stronger. My dealer had tuned the stumble out of the OE ECU, so I put this one back on on to use with the Ti kit. I'm curious on what difference a PC + good dyno work would make. Maybe I'll add one next summer, if I decide to go to K+N pods (I love that look also). For no she runs just right for me. Anyone recommend a DC/Balto area shop for Guzzi work?

A brother of a friend trashed his tranny by missing a gear, when trying pull a wheelie. At high RPM he tries to engage it again - result - whack His RH side of the trans housing is cracked in several places just behind the speedo drive, the "cone shaped area" he says. I suspect a split gear got jambed/shoved over to the case, we'll see when it gets opened up. Anybody know of a totaled V11 Sport being parted out? a trans for sale?, in the US preferably. Let me know, thanks.

Since the lower temps are starting to roll in, a couple of weeks ago I decided to get my Nero set up with some heat. I like the aftermarket kits that are made up of two adhesive squares with the heating elements bonded to them. Available at some bike shops, ATV/snowmobile places. The kit I got technically was for snowmobiles, with warnings not to use on motorcycles as it stated it "could melt the throttle tube". I'll take my chances. As suggested by Al on some other posts I took power from the unused last fuse in the block. What Al didn't mention is (at least on my bike) this fuse location wasn't fed any power. So, for this I added a jumper from the next available block, by soldering a wire between the two. Then a wire runs from the other side of the fuse, up to the switch. In my case, the center tang of the on-off-on 3-position rocker switch. The switch I used is an automotive accessory type sold in performance or DIY shops. After removing the grips (Pro Grip brand in my case, as I've changed them) the paper is peeled off and the heating elements positioned. Reinstall the grips, route the wires in a sensible manner then make the appropriate connections per the instructions. Now the switch, the switch, where to put the switch. For me, drilling/carving a hole on the dash or fairing somewhere wasn't in the cards. Looking around the bike, I came up with a location, a bolt to use and with some sawing/drilling/filing/bending, a SS bracket for the switch, picture atached. After several test runs on some cooler mornings we've had so far, so far so good. They behave as I thought they would, I have experience with the same type as I've put them on a BMW K bike I had before the Nero. Yeah, the right grip heats up quicker and gets a little warmer, but NBD to me. So, anyone looking to ride a little more comfortabe in temps below 60 F, have at it, regards.

And make note that the Mid Atlantic Italian Motofest is on Sunday 10 -3 in Shepherdstown, WV, not too far from the rally, www.italianmotofest.com

While the site was down, I received my Ti kit. I installed it per the instructions (on a totally stock '04 V11 Nero) and ran it for a week. With the supplied ECU the driving oerformance was not so good. At 3000-3200 rpm there was a bad spit/cough/backfire through the intake. At crusing rpm it was slightly better 3500-4000 rpm, but I still experienced too frequent coughs/spits. On the bright side, the fuel mileage was up to 43/44 mpg. It sounds great, look sweet and saves weight, but the drivability sucked, and my perception was it didn't pull any stronger or harder than it did before, if anything weaker it seemed. After the week (about 180 miles) I went back to the ECU the bike had on it before. **NOTE** Recall my story of the bike dying on me 3 times the first 2 weeks I had it, after this the original ECU that came with the bike was changed by the dealer. And I am sure the dealer richened up the map as I complained of similar cough/spit at the 1000 initial mile service point. After this I had no spits/cough. It was rich as the pipes (original mufflers) have some carbon sootiness on their outlets after a couple months of running. After swapping out the ECU"S (back to "stock") the drivability was restored. It runs sweet, sound great, looks nice (except for the left can being an inch higher than the right one), pulls hard - its A-OK by me. The mileage is back to "normal (39-40 mpg). I'll admit it could likely run better with a PC and the right person dialing it in, but due to my location these places are 3-4 hours away and would require a couple of trips to do the deal. For me, it runs just fine, so I'll ride it! FYI on the weight savings, stock cans/brackets (the take-off stuff) weighs 10.1 lbs each side, 20.2 lbs total. The Ti cans/brackets (stuff you put back on) weighs 9.7 lbs total. Regards.

Here is sort of an alternative to the Throttlemeister. It is a basic throttle lock, I've used this type for years on different bikes. It's made by NEP and can be found in many bike shops in the US. Generally $12.00-$15.00, it is an economical, workable throttle lock.

!!HOLY $HIT!!....and to think there is a good deal on a Tenni @ Orange county Mtsp.

John T. I found a set this week at Beaudry Mtsp. in Idaho (go figure). I have sent my check and expect them (the '03-'04 kit) next week. Here's how I found them, go to MGNA wab site, go to the dealer locator, start calling dealers to see if they have a kit on stock. It's helpful to have the PN. I can tell you not to bother with any dealers in PA, VA or OH. The don't have either kit, good luck.