Ryland3210

I would be very happy with that. The Metzler M1's that came with my bike were wiped at 3800. What have you been running?

Amongst the many references to Pirelli, Michelin, Metzler, and Dunlop et al, every once in a while, I hear of someone quite happy with Bridgestone's longevity and good performance. e.g. 7 years, and hardly broken in! How many miles was that? I didn't catch it somehow.

Personally, Dave, I never liked the heated dipstick, and never used them because I was concerned that the wattage concentrated in that small a volume would reach temperatures that might fry the oil and ruin it's properties. Block heaters that are spliced into the lower radiator hoses of liquid cooled engines work great. I've used them at up to 800 watts to preheat my car engines 20-30 minutes before starting, once again, back when the winters were cold. In the case of the air cooled Guzzi, unless you can find a cartridge or band heater, such as are used in the plastic molding and die casting industry that will conduct heat directly into the metallic structure of the block, my recommendation is to stick with the light bulb or convection heater mentioned earlier. By the way, I would be concerned about a 300 watt heat lamp. If close to the bike, it might raise surface temperatures high enough to peal paint or damage plastic. A mere 60 watt bulb can generate quite a bit of heat underneath the sump, especially if you drape a blanket over the bike to contain the heat so it helps warm the cylinders directly as well. Maybe 100 at the most?

You could offer to reimburse the landlord for the power consumption. Let's see, if it's a 100 watt bulb, that's about a penny an hour! If you did it every day, thirty cents a month. No worries, mate. Furthermore, the battery will put out a lot more power if it's warmed up a bit while the thinner oil gives it less work to do. 'Course there's the ride home, and figuring out how to do the same thing for the trip back. Usually, it's the start in the early morning that is the worst case.

That's good for a quick warmup. Mine runs well in cool weather also. I think it is on the rich side anyway, so the cool air injested gives it a mild supercharging effect, and the extra fuel is there to take advantage of it. However, MPG's go down.

If Dave's bike is stored indoors, he could do what I used to when I had to keep my car outside during the cold winters of the 1970's. I opened the hood, draped a blanket over the engine, and put a 60 watt light bulb under the oil pan on a timer set to turn on an hour before I needed to drive the car. It made a remarkable difference. I'll bet that would make a great deal of difference under the sump, even if the bike is outdoors. If indoors, the blanket would probably not be necessary, but it wouldn't hurt, either. Much less wasted fuel or cold running engine. The cost for the electricity used is negligible. Matter of fact, I'm going to resume doing that myself on those cold days I expect to ride. Sorry I didn't think of it earlier.

Many terms derived from terminology coined in the early days of the industrial revolution in England survive to this day in England, India, Australia, and other former English colonies. Not so in the U.S. for some reason. Perhaps because we became independent before the industrial revolution. Pete, I need your help here: By "band linisher", do you mean a motorized belt driven abrasive collar as I know has been done on crankshafts while still in the engine? Does linishing refer to a particular type of abrasive?

That's not English, it's Austraaaaalian. It's often said that we Americans are separated from the English by a common language. I need further explanation too.

Greg, Where the heck have you been? We've been ruminating over this forever! Thanks for clearing up the last spec of doubt on this question. The Guzziology arrived. Thanks much.

You got me, Kevin! I had my nerd hat on at the time. Seriously, there's the question of cause and effect. I can imagine moisture on a filter packing up with dirt, dust, lint from the guaze, etc., creating a lot of restriction, rather than the moisture entering the intake of a running engine. A parked bike sitting under rainfall for enough time could also, I suppose a leak into the engine past the rings might cause the kind of internal damage you mention, although I haven't seen it.

I remember reading this also, and it built my confidence in Pete's statements having a sound basis. My kinda' guy. I tested the oil starvation theory with my handy dandy pressure gauge to prove it to myself, and immediately bought one of his plates without having to worry about oil getting back to the sump through it. I expect I'll soon be able to get the bike on the road and do the "after" test.

[quote name='tmcaf

You did the right thing. Better to resolve it. I sent another request last night to Pete to please inspect his engine.

So you still have doubts about where the PRV is tapped in? Guzziology and Pete Roper vs. MGNOC, hmmm. It would not be terribly risky or difficult to disassemble the manifold to settle this question. Keeping it clean is the main issue. Guzziology's diagrams are consistent with its wording, showing the PRV after the filter. Guzziology shows several diagrams of different generations. The ones that show filters all have the PRV after. The flow diagram also looks like that's how the oil flows, but it is ambiguous. Perhaps the difference is the MGNOC article's adjective "current". I haven't read the article, but is it possible they are speaking of changes post Guzziology 6.0, and is speaking of the latest models? I hope Pete Roper takes the time to inspect his engine and responds to my request. I just don't feel like doing it just now, having just installed his plate, and with lots of things to do.

As far as practical significance goes, it is a question of whether the clearly quantifyable effect which PRV location has on flow rate through the filter and pressure delivered to the engine effects engine wear. The alternative Guzzi chose provides a bit more margin of safety by increasing the filtering flow rate and pressure to the engine when pump flow is sufficient. This alternative is my preference as well. How much that effects engine wear also depends on how well the engine oil quality and quantity is maintained. I have nothing more to add on the subject. What's next?

Why? Because it's entertaining and satisfies the minds of the curious. Hopefully along the way, educational for the interested novice. I make a contribution when a question is asked I can answer, or a misconception appears I can correct because it's in my field. Of course, you're right on the practical side, Dan, but I don't think we are re-engineering this, just understanding it. Frankly, the only thing left for me to wonder about before this all started was simply, where in the circuit the PRV is located. Today, I received my copy of Guzziology 6.0. According to its respected author, the PRV is located after the filter. I'm glad to hear that for reasons expressed above. That being the case, I'm satisfied the 12-15 psi bypass relief pressure of the UFI and Purolator filters is in the right range for this engine. No further comment from me is required, unless it reverts back to when a question is asked which I can answer, or a misconception appears which I can correct because it's in my field. That's how I want to contribute when I can. I'm not that great at entertaining, at least not in writing

Hi Dave, The PRV is a shunt from the pressured oil supply to the sump, so it's not as if the pressure in the system is greater before or after the PRV. Whether the PRV is connected to the inlet or outlet side of the filter affects the pressure on the inlet side to the extent of the pressure drop in the filter, and it affects the pressure to the oil galleries to the same extent. Most times, PRV's stick open, which reduces pressure. It is unlikely they jam closed, unless possibly a bike has been sitting so long it has stuck shut due to corrosion. Even then, the fixed displacement pump can build very high pressure until the valve opens. If it is sticky and stays open, or the spring is broken, then it won't close down as it should to regulate pressure. Sorry to go over stuff you probably know already, but my attention was grabbed by the "pressure before the PRV will be greater than after the PRV" phrase. As for whether it's better for the PRV to be before or after the filter: Although it's true, as you say, that more oil flows through the filter if it's after, that can be considered a good thing in terms of filtering the oil more effectively. Even when it is bypassing, until the filter is totally clogged, it still has oil flowing through the element since the element and bypass relief valve are in parallel. Moreover, when the higher flow creates more pressure drop, the flow through the element increases, thereby increasing its rate of trapping contaminents. So if the goal is for the filter to collect contaminents as efficiently as possible, the PRV should be after the filter. That also has the beneficial effect of increasing the pressure to the engine's bearings by the pressure drop across the filter, whenever the pump has the capacity.

Junk science, uninformed paranoia, and bureaucratic paralysis of analysis are the big, and formidable, obstacles to nuclear power in the U.S. The approval process in New Jersey takes 7 years. It should take 7 months, if not less. It's not as if we've never done this before. Right after a $6 billion reactor was run through test and was ready to go on line, Governor Cuomo of New York forced Long Island Lighting to sell it to the State of New York for $1, and then completely dismantled it. Later, New Yorkers complained bitterly at the increasing cost of electricity. The least he could have done is donate it to a needy developing country. Egos can be powerful, and among those holding high office, at times they are unbounded. Today the cost is ten times that. Back on track: Here's my take on it: "High performance" EPROMS were available not long ago for $75, and could replace the "command" computer EPROM in my '98 Camaro. I think a product that did not require additional hardware, such as a MY15M, or a pure software based system using a laptop that sold in the $300 range would sell in high volume. Personally I would find a solution that did not require a PCXXX more attractive.

The purpose of the loop is to allow the valve to be attached such that the longer hose barb is pointing to the sky. The valve only permits flow from that end to the end connected to the tank in my picture, but it only permits flow if attached the way it is shown. Otherwise the internal check valve closes. If the valve is mounted with the longer end downward, it won't flow in either direction. Therefore the short hose which normally connects the tank to the valve has to be replaced with a longer one or lengthened.

Had a great ride today with Leon, age 92. Rides with skill and remembers everything. Great stories about riding in the 1930's (13.9 cents a gallon for gas) and last year, too. It's inspiring to be with guys like this that continue to enjoy something that's given them such joy for decades. Leon made the Polar Bear Club run to Lewes, Delaware all the way from Paramus, NJ, in really cold weather a couple weeks ago. No big deal for Leon. I'll have to get up to Cheshire when I get the chance.

If you look carefully at my placement suggestion, you will see that each end of the valve is connected the same way as the manual. The difference is the orientation of the valve: upside down from the way the manual implies it should be. If you want to take a chance on my TPS/synch skills, I'm about 70 minutes drive from the GWB, and you're welcome to bring your bike over to my place. You've suffered enough-I'll do it for the fun of it. If you plan on doing valve clearance, do it ahead of time or at my place, if you have the time.

Quite a bit of research and testing was done on the flywheel concept in decades past. If you have been looking into this for some time, you know that the amount of energy stored is a function of the mass and the maximum rotary inertia, which is limited by the strength of the materials withstanding the centrifugal forces at high RPM. It was tried in England on a bus with some success, because of the frequent stops. It does nothing to decrease fuel consumption when cruising at constant speed, and in fact adds weight, so it has quite limited usefulness. My analysis also concludes that geothermal and solar thermal are cost effective. Wind energy is not, and still requires heavy government subsidies. Sunshine and wind are not available 24/7, so either the power grid or massive energy storage reservoirs of one form or another are required. Heat pumps using the earth or large volumes of water can be very efficient and cost effective on a small scale, for example single and multi family homes, individual office buildings, apartments and the like. The really big problem is the exponential growth of greenhouse gas emissions by India and China. Combined, they emit far more than the U.S. In a few short years, each of them will surpass the U.S. In my opinion, joined by my informed science and engineering friends in the technology area, it is extremely unlikely that will slow down, AND no combination of the above alternatives to burning fossil fuels has the potential capacity to put a dent into that growth. France is at over 70% nuclear powered, and unless China, India, Russia, Europe, and the U.S. start catching up to France, the global warming issue is likely to reach catastrophic proportions. The Kyoto protocol is ineffectual as long as China and India are exempt. The U.S. should withhold its signature to that document until that exemption is eliminated. Any criticism of the U.S. position is either uninformed or misdirected. China and India are the appropriate targets to eliminate this impasse and take effective action.

I take it you also agree with docc that the absolute pressure sensor is in the ECU? And that the temperature sensor should also not be mounted in the windstream where it is coupled to the ambient air instead of the somewhat warmer air being drawn into the throttle bodies?

Under Clinton's "free trade" agreement with China and granting them most favored nation trade status, they are allowed to subsidize their manufacturers (as if they needed it), and to manipulate the exchange rate to keep their prices low (as if they needed it). Bush hasn't done anything to stop the bleeding either.