Ryland3210

Looks great! I have both rallies on my calendar. Mapquest says it's a 2 hour 40 minute trip from Manchester to Monson, probably longer on the back roads. Looks tight, but possible, to take it all in and arrive at Monson before sundown.

This meet is at Marsh Motorcycle, 36 North Road, Rt. 140, East Windsor, CT. 860-623-7795. It's on Saturday October 6th. The Connecticut/Rhode Island chapter of MGNOC meets for breakfast at the Marcus Dairy near Danbury on the 7th. I visited this fine dealership a few months ago. At the time, the elderly owner announced he was selling the business, which had only sold Moto Guzzi's, a rarity. It was an enjoyable event, with quite a number of long distance riders, in spite of the somewhat rainy weather. Branchville Motors, Branchville, CT. is hosting an open house on Sunday, 10/21.

Hi Phil, I enjoyed reading your response. Perhaps sometime this winter, I'll have more time to do the research you suggest to get specific answers on all the questions. Cheers, John

Did the oil filter loosen up? That's been a not too infrequent cause. What make and model was the filter?

I'm fascinated but having a difficult time learning from your experience and theories, Phil. Please clarify the following: "invert": what is being inverted, pressure or rarifaction, both or velocity or other? "destruction of the lost energy": a double negative-please explain. "add to the effect": which effect? If the filter is the typical convoluted paper element type, it would seem to be a good acoustic absorber. Why is its dampening effect minimal? What is your opinion on bell mouth inlets?

It's more pleasant to start with a cold engine for calibrating the TPS and the steps up through step A. At that point, the engine should be warmed up, so the adjustments of the air bypasses for the idle RPM will be correct for a warmed up engine.

Two ideas. It's a real long shot, but perhaps your dealer will give you a complementary demo to borrow while you're waiting for the repairs, if he has one. In comparison, bike rentals don't come cheap, typically $100-$140/day. My guess is that MG would not reimburse him for this, so it could be a burden to him because of insurance issues. Second, I just installed a Sigma bicycle speedometer, model 1606L, while I'm waiting for a speedo cable. $25 for this upscale version at Richard's (the real name is the commonly known contraction of that name, but evidently the software censorship program views it as foul language!) Sporting goods. They also sell units for $15!. The difference is features and backlighting. I went for the extra $10 in case I need the backlighting. The backlighting turns on for 3 seconds when you push any button on the unit. It took about an hour to install. Battery powered, no need to connect to the bike's electrical system. The Sigma website has a dealer locator. There seem to be lots of them. It's so neat, I plan to keep it even after the speedo cable is replaced. It has a clock, trip time, trip distance, total distance, average speed, maximum speed, etc. It has a programmable wheel circumference, so the accuracy can be dialed in. FYI, mine is 1820 mm. According to Sigma, it's good to 300 MPH. If you decide to go this way, I can help with installation hints.

I think I can make it to the Monson Rally. It's short notice, but how about Sunday the 25th? Where? So far, interested parties are scattered over quite a distance, from Albany to Salem, to Rhode Island, and me down here next to Jersey. Marcus Dairy is around the center to meet or someplace farther north, then perhaps up the roads north of there? Any suggestions for a route or alternative meeting place? Weather looks good to go. cheers, John

I sorry to say I don't know anything about the dimensions or geometry on which to base a comment. Given the speed of sound in the 1100 feet per second region, the less than three milliseconds involved would hardly be noticed. However, the surface area available for fuel to condense on when the throttle was suddenly opened would be significantly larger than a conventional intake manifold. The usual solution for that, in the days before unburned hydrocarbons was a concern, was simply a larger accelerator pump-whatever it took.

Thanks for the suggestion. I noticed two ads seeking a 5.5 " wheel, and put mine in, indicating I wanted to buy outright. I always like keeping the OEM parts, so that if I ever sell the bike, the new owner can restore it back to original if they like. More likely, it will be in my estate. Perhaps the two ads seeking the 5.5 will be interested in cash from me they can use to buy a 5.5 inch'er. I hope to move fast, so I can get a new tire at the same time. Who knows? maybe the rim will come with a decent tire I can use for a while! I'll be sure to modify the cush rubbers and lubricate as well in the process.

However, with each cycle, the pressure wave amplitude is dampened, especially if the inlet end of the tract terminates into a relatively large cavity, especially if containing a filter which can dampen instead of reflecting a pressure wave.

It took 4 months for a dealer (not the one I bought it from) to register my bike in the warrantee system Some delays can be beneficial-it extended my warrantee by the 4 months!

Here is the recently researched and quantitatively analyzed results of the contributions of several knowledgable contributors on TPS calibration and throttle synchronization. It works, is consistent with the known facts, and is straightforward to use. IDLE TPS/THROTTLE BALANCING TUNING September 9, 2007 First make sure the TPS is calibrated to 150 mv at fully closed as follows: disconnect the connecting rod, back off the right throttle idle screw and choke cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike), then loosen the TPS clamp screws and rotate if needed. + - 5 mv can be obtained with a little effort. Next, close the bypasses, keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash, and balance the throttles at idle using the connecting rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .518 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to 3.4 degrees physical opening) can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table.) Next open the bypasses to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Bypasses should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS in steps of 15 mv and open the bypasses to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at midrange RPM as follows: A When checking balance at cruise RPM, make any fine correction needed using the connecting rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, done, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. Option: Adjust the idle mixture trim potentiometer under the label of the computer for best idle quality, or use a gas analyzer if available. However, according to Guzzijack, "not an option on the V11Sport as it uses the 15M ECU - manual adjustment of the idle mixture potentiometer is only applicable to bikes with the P7/P8 or 16M ECUs - 15M idle mixture adjust is only possible via factory or aftermarket software." Once this procedure is completely successfully, in the future, minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle plates have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and bypasses have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles.

Cool! Like Pete Roper, and evidently yourself, I'd prefer to have a smaller rear tire. Any advice on wheel interchangeability with my bike. I'll bet there are those out there that would prefer the bling factor rims on my '04. Or are the thinner wheels available for purchase without breaking the bank?

I for one and more than glad to change exhaust harmonics, and that would certainly happen if the crossover and existing labyrinth muffler is replaced with independent straight exhaust pipes into a free flowing "silencer". If nothing else, the length of exhaust pipe will be significantly longer than the stock unit, which will decrease the fundamental frequency of that element. As far as inlet tract modifications go, it is simply more difficult to make major length changes there. At one time, I think back in the '60's, Chrysler Corporation did produce an engine, probably a hemi, with tuned intake manifolds. It used twin four barrel carbs on seperate manifolds, each feeding four cylinders. The thing was gigantic, reflecting the length required to tune for the 3500 to 6000 RPM range. In my mind's eye, I recall the picture, showing a length of about 3 feet from each carb to the intake ports of the opposite bank of the V-8's cylinders. Not so easy to accomplish on a cycle. Short intake lengths will keep the natural frequency high enough to stay above the max RPM range of the engine, leaving the exhaust system as a tempting, and relatively easy target for tuning. I'm not sure. As I read the fine print, he didn't use full throttle below 5K RPM.

Glad to oblige. If you are also changing the filter, then fill the sump with 4 quarts. On my dipstick that's about 1 inch above the incorrectly located full mark when fully screwed in. See the thread on filter installation in the How to section. Do not use the torque specification method on the UFI filter if you want to avoid it loosening. Use the turns method described. I have found the Purolator L10241 to have a design less prone to loosening than the UFI's.

I lift the whole bike with a chain hoist connected to a rafter. I use a sling connected to the frame (with seat off) and handlebars. An alternative is a standard hydraulic motor hoist. Harbor Freight and others sell these for $50-$100. I like lifting from above as high as I like with everything underneath easy to reach. I also use it simply to hold the bike vertical. I can work on it with no fear of it falling over. A worthwhile investment with many uses.

Try this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=Oil+Drain+Plug

Hi waspp, It was good to meet you at IMOC. I don't think our friend here has had a speedo problem. I added it to the list for him to be aware of. I'm curious about the Harpers supplied cable. Was it an MG part or from another source? Cheers, John

That sounds good, but meanwhile, I've found that the bicycle battery powered LCD speedos, including clock, trip and total miles, trip time, average speed, max speed, actual speed, etc. are so inexpensive (as little as $20) and easy to install, I'm buying one while I wait for a new speedo cable to arrive. If this new-improved cable has another early failure, then I'll take a hard look at Acewell again. If it does work, I'll probably keep the bike speedo anyway, because it can be calibrated spot on, as opposed to the 8-10 percent error of the MG speedo.

One you haven't mentioned is the speedo cable. The sharp bend of the housing at the transmission end causes early failure of the cable. The cable broke after a little over 100 miles the first time. The replacement lasted about 1200 miles. The version originally supplied on the '04 was superseded by a new design. Apparently MG recognized the design flaw. While the dealer is taking care of the other problems, make sure he replaces the OE housing and cable with the current design. FWIW, I have been waiting for Branchville motors to get one from MG now for two weeks. I also had the low fuel light fail in 70 miles. That's worked fine since the sensor was replaced. It's inside the fuel tank, so the tipover valve can be oriented properly while the tank is off. The tank suction problem is caused by the tipover valve not being tie wrapped in the correct vertical position. One owner reported it had been installed upside down. I fixed this problem myself, with help from this forum. No problems since. On my '04, the seat base rested on the battery, causing it to develop at leak at the terminal. The battery was replaced by the dealer with a factory prepared Yuasa (available from Bombardier). However, I bent the battery support brackets to lower its forward end, and carved a chunk out of the plastic seat base to prevent it resting on the battery along with my body weight. Your seat may be different, since mine is a Cafe Sport. No problems with the battery since then. I did not have a discharge problem. Another factor is the charging method. If the battery in your bike was allowed to discharge and the dealer used a fast rate of charge, he may have permanently reduced the battery's capacity. For example, the maximum charging currrent on the Yuasa version is 1/10 the amp hour capacity. That's 1.2 amps. It's not always the dealer that's at fault. At times it has taken a long time for MG to ship out parts to them. If your dealer has a good relationship with others, he can buy the parts from another dealer that has them in stock. For examply, MPH in texas is one you might try. If you contact them and they have the parts needed in stock, you could then tell Wagner where to get them so you and they don't have to wait for the factory to respond. If you get past these initial issues, I believe you will come to enjoy the bike as many of us have. You'll have plenty of fellow riders and dealer service techs that are members of this forum to help as well.

Yes, please. Let's have mercy on those that come after us searching for solid technical answers, and not have them sifting through pages of side issue verbosity to find them. Let's be mindful and compassionate in criticism when a correction is appropriate and defend challenges with objective facts and enlighten in the process.

Looks pretty good to me. With only a 40 mm depth, is there a chance this will fit within the original speedo housing? What is the diameter of, the case diameter, or the outside diameter of the bezel?

With a crossover, the length of pipe from engine to the crossover form one natural frequency to influence engine output. In the stock mufflers, another one is created by the length of the pipe from the crossover to where that pipe terminates in the rear end of the muffler. There are also other complex relationships between volumes and natural frequencies of various elements, including the crossover itself. In contrast, independent straight pipes are easier to tune to a given range of RPM. Whether it increases power at top end or middle primarily depends on the length, it seems to me. Here's a crude approximation and food for thought: At 4000 RPM, each cylinder generates exhaust pulses at the rate of 33-1/3 per second. For a speed of sound of 1100 feet per second, one wavelength is 33 feet, and a quarter wavelength is 8.25 feet. At 8000 RPM, the quarter wavelength is 4.125 feet, not far from the length of the OE exhaust pipes.

Ratchethad, thanks much for taking the time to help me with the tradeoffs. Mindfulness is definitly strongly ingrained in my thought process. I have had no problem with the tracking on my M1's, or any other bike I have owned. That's probably the result of having driven on New Jersey's roads for most of my life, and plenty of dirt trail riding as well. I'll start shopping around for tires.