Ryland3210

Count me in! I'm really looking forward to being there and meeting some forum members. John

Hi Gary, Your mailbox is full, hence this message. Thanks for the kind offer to make up the pressure adapter. I've already designed up and starting making a mounting bracket for the pressure gauge and port adapter to go with it. I'm still interested in the brass holder for the temperature sensor. Today, I found some anti-seize grease with a claimed high copper content at a Napa store. It's by Permatex. If I find out the copper content, I'll let you know what I learn. best, John PS, the Permatex "Copper" anti seize contains Lithium Grease and 15-25% copper. It ought to be a decent thermal conductor.

For an alternative with even more comfort and correct lever positions, check out the "Forward Foot Position" thread in Technical topics. Here is the link: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10389

When a knowledgable person comes to a point where it is difficult to decide between alternatives, it probably does not matter which one is chosen.

I have only had the adjusting assembly apart. An ordinary O-Ring seal is used there. With the needle all the way in or out, oil circulates, just in variing degrees. Damping is present in varying degrees throughout the range specified in the manual: all the way clockwise for maximum damping, to 16 clicks counterclockwise from there for the "soft" setting. I tried riding today with it off the bike, and it handled fine. My preference is for quick steering, but as the bike loosens up with age years from now, I will then put it back on. For those who like to carve corners at extreme angles or achieve a light touch of the front tire at high speed via maximum acceleration or plain old high velocity cruising damping is probably required. It looks as though the piston rod seals are conventional, judging from the slotted retainers. If one takes the adjustment assembly apart, it will be very tricky to reassemble without a special tool. I found it impossible, so I made one out of a $2 brass hose fitting. I can supply instructions upon request.

I have made up a tool to reassemble the needle valve. If anyone is interested, I can supply do it yourself instructions. Cheers, John

I wondered why the steering damper adjustment on my '04 Sport was frozen. I am the original owner and no one has worked on this since I purchased the bike. I discovered that the internal needle screw had not been screwed in all the way during assembly, or perhaps someone doing "research" out of curiousity at the dealer had looked inside and not known how to put it back together. The two spring loaded balls providing the detents for the needle had not been seated within the grooved bore, and were jamming up the works. During disassembly, some of the oil leaked out. It was replaced, and the cylinder bled as well as could be done by moving it back and forth until no more bubbles came out. I made up a tool to retain the balls within the needle during insertion, and it worked fine. Now the adjustment clicks and regulates as it should. I notice two balls on the bottom of the housing exterior, and wonder if these provide some method of filling with oil or bleeding air out. It seems like there is still some air in there. Anyone know the bleeding procedure, and what these balls are for? Any guidance will be really appreciated.

I'm getting 41 MPG (US gallons) with 1500 miles on the odo with standard setup, so I wonder if I will do any better by changing the ECU, PCIII, etc. The bike runs great as well. Mine is two model years newer than yours, so perhaps MG learned some things, or I'm just lucky. When I get the chance, I do plan on putting some conductive grease in the temp sensor, though. I just think I ought to be able to do as well as my full dress cruiser: 48. I'd like to have the extra range.

There is no sensor in the crossover. Is MyECU a replacement for the original or does it work with it? What sort of test is done with the test ports? Perhaps a gas sampling tube for a flue gas analyser, or thermocouple for exhaust temperature.

Hi Cliff, My '04 Sport has two M10 ports in the side of each exhaust pipe, close to the engine. Looks like a good location for an O2 sensor. Are MyECU or Power Commander to your knowledge capable of making use of same in closed loop mode? Cheers, John

Understood. So did you run a bottoming tap in far enough to avoid having to jam the sensor in?

Not on the rolling surfaces. The spatial cones described by the inner and outer races both intersect at the same point along the axis of rotation. The rollers are tapered to match. However, retaining walls alongside the groove are places where sliding can take place. In a good design with adequate lubrication, this is not the long term cause of failure. As Pete points out, absent adequate lubrication, there is the potential for scuffing caused by the sliding of ball retainers. Another cause of failure is spalling caused by extreme contact pressures caused by overloading. This is where the surface fails in compression, and pits form. In theory, if the lubricant is free of particulate contamination, since the design fatigue life of bearings is infinite, failure comes down to overloading, contamination, and/or inadequate lubrication. Even with adequate lube, if spalling occurs, you can imagine what those fractured pieces of hardened steel will do to the balls and races to cause skidding and rapid failure. Pete's certainly on the right track to make sure the lubrication is right, and cleanliness is vital. Another factor to consider in high RPM applications: A bearing with the same ID and OD but with smaller balls will result in higher rotational velocity of the balls, and more revolutions per second of the balls around the outer race. Moreover, the contact pressure of the balls is increased. Therefore, bearing life will be reduced. For examply, in a pinch, I used a spare bearing on a 1750 RPM pump motor that was identical in overall dimensions, and of good Japanese manufacture, to replace a failed bearing. It lasted about three days! The next one, made in Taiwan (I only bought it because it was in stock) lasted one year. It had the right ball size, and probably decent steel, but the contact seals keeping the lubricant where it belonged failed-support to Pete's point.

It's actually only $450, including shipping within the U.S. Outside the U.S., I can quote shipping to anywhere once I know the destination. This can be by UPS, Fedex, US Global Priority Mail, DHL, etc. If paid in other than U.S. dollars, I have to charge the bank's exchange fees, which typically run about $30. Checks in foreign currency are OK, but the exchange fees are charged, and clearance can take a couple of weeks or more. Checks drawn on U.S. banks clear in 2-3 business days. Money orders are as good as cash. Since the first batch, two improvements have been made. Shift levers are now polished a bit more. The new stainless connecting rod is now left hand/right hand threaded, and a new left hand ball rod end and locknut are supplied to replace the original. This makes it simple and easy to fine tune the lever adjustment without having to disconnect it from the ball rod end as was necessary with the original Guzzi design. I hope this answers all your questions. If not, send me a detailed personal message. Cheers, John

Here's a way to look at it that may help: Imagine that the groove radius is ten times that of the balls, so you can clearly contemplate the balls contacting both inner and outer races along a line around the circumference of the balls in the ball rotation plane, similar to the planetary gear setup. There is no skidding as the balls roll around. It may be easier to visualize if the outer race is stationary and the inner rotates. If the groove radius were exactly the same as the balls and there were no lubrication, the contact would be along a line transverse to the ball rotational plane. In that case, there will be sliding motion everywhere along that line of contact except at the bottom of the groove. However, grooves with radii slightly larger than the balls prevent that transverse line metal to metal contact, so the lubricant can do its job. Hope that helps. Signing off for now.

I had the same problem with my '04 Cafe Sport. The speedo cable failed after only 130 miles. A local dealer tipped me off on the universal cable also. However, the crimp on fitting's O.D. was a little too large, so it interfered with the inside of the cable housing. That caused the first attempt to fail in about 25 miles. Next I tried lubricating one with grease as someone else had suggested. Bad idea-it failed before I got out the driveway. The next attempt failed because the cable was slightly too long. The last one worked OK. Meanwhile, I learned that MG had redesigned the housing to eliminate the main cause of failure: too tight a bend just above the transmission. There is a new part number. My suggestion is to contact a dealer and get them to obtain the new cable housing/flex cable. Meanwhile, take advantage of my trial and error experience and make do with a universal cable. Check the O.D. of the crimp fitting to make sure it rotates freely in the cable housing near the speedo. I ground mine down with a bench grinder by spinning the fitting by hand at the same time.

I'm coming into this thread late, but am interested in joining. I'm in Warwick, NY, next to the Jersey border, so I'm in a similar situation as waspp. Cheers, John

Europa Macchina is a new dealer in Lewisberry, PA, just south of Harrisburg. Contact information: Dennis Frick (not sure of spelling) 717-932-6600

Having been ignored and frustrated to various degrees by three other dealers, I am happy to say that Branchville Motors handled my speedometer cable and low fuel light failures efficiently and professionally. I appreciated the absence of false promises and the accurate projection of completion date. Alex runs a tight ship, and everyone I met in his staff was competent and helpful, in addition to Alex himself.

I beg to differ. The fact that the outer race is longer than the inner is no cause for skidding. For example, with the radius of the grooves slightly larger than the radius of the balls, and absent side thrust, the contact between the balls and both inner and outer races will be along a line along the middle of the grooves. The only sliding motion is therefore along the sides of the groove, which is lubricated in the minute gap between the balls and the side of the grooves.

Hi Greg, My Norton had a friction adjusting screw built into the throttle grip housing. When adjusted to just allow the throttle return springs to close the throttle when released, it was amazing how much less fatigue there was with the friction to help offset the relatively powerful AMAL carb return springs. On long distance trips, I would adjust it a little stronger to just hold the throttle in place. Not having a kill switch lanyard, I was happy to have never fallen off the bike with a runaway engine. Can you supply a link to the one you market? I'm interested. Thanks, John

I had seen that before, but had no luck finding the 12mm to 1/4NPT adapter. One thing I wondered about was Greg's comment about stopping the 12mm tap just as its widest point reached the adapter. Isn't the 12mm X 1.5 a straight thread? The sensor looks like a straight thread with a douty type seal in the picture. If so, stopping before the thread is fully formed could lead to preventing fully screwing in the sensor and jamming it before bottoming out to let the seal do its job. I suppose one could then apply enough torque to force it home. Cheers, John

Hi Pete, I'd like to put a fitting under the dual banjo fitting next to the pressure switch to tap off oil pressure to a pressure guage. Alternatively drill and tap the mounting screw. Any suggestions? Is this port at full pump pressure, or restricted? thanks, John

This is off topic, but I can't resist. I enjoyed my fiat 850 four cylinder rear engine fastback with a progressive two barrel weber carb no end back in the seventies. When the block cracked about two inches on the inside of a cylinder, I dremeled a groove, brazed it up, and filed it smooth. Ran great for years, but I sold it when the firewall rusted out so bad the brake cylinder was ready to break off. Loved that high revving, performance tuned engine.

Check out the thread "foot forward position" a few threads below. These have received consistent positive reports on improved riding comfort. Cheers, John

Hi Tony, I've just finished a batch. No problem shipping anywhere. I'll send you a direct message with all the details. Thanks for the kind words. Cheers, John Hi Kev, Whether risers or extensions, cables and hoses would have to be extended. A little more difficult. Making hoses is routine for me, but not control cables. If you know of a quality source for special length cables I could purchase from, it would be of interest. I want to be in a position to control quality in anything I get involved in, and to supply everything needed in a kit. best, John