Ryland3210

Hi Richard, further to my earlier message, here is some info. courtesy of Todd Haven of MPH Cycles: Todd referred to an Moto Guzzi bulletin: " ... applies to Lemans, Nero Corsa, and Rosso Corsa as well. 01760481 is the new cable for Cafe Sport and Ballabio. 01760492 is the new cable for Lemans,Nero Corsa and Rosso Corsa. Both in stock at MGNA as of 1-05. Todd Haven - MPH Cycles.com" Caution, this posting was in the context of a speedo cable fix, but the service bulletin speaks of the tach cable, yet the tachometer on my '04 Sport is electronic, so it's possible there was a mistake in translation from Italian to English. You might want to call Todd direction at MPH to clarify. Hope this helps.

Welcome to the club. My '04 Sport had exactly these two problems, and so have many other Guzzistis. I went through several attempts at speedo cables before learning that MG had redesigned the speedo cable housing, finally realizing it was a real problem. The cause of failure is the sharp bend just above the trans case, exactly where yours and mine (3 in a row in the first 700 miles) failed. I tried lubrication, both graphite, light oil, and grease. The graphite made no difference. The oil and grease accelerated failure to less than 20 miles in the case of oil, and 800 feet in the case of grease. Ask your dealer to be sure to get the latest design speedo cable and housing. If you get the same housing as came with your '04, you are likely to have the problem again. If he cannot find out which is the new versus old design, let me know, and I'll research my files for it. My low fuel reserve light failed after about 150 miles. The cause of failure was the thermistor sensor within the fuel tank. I'm hoping this will not recur for a long time. My theory is that during all the time the bike spent at the dealership before selling it to me, the gas was probably low. I think the way it works is that the thermistor is in series with the bulb. It has a negative temperature coefficient, so with no gas around it, the current through the bulb and the sensor heats up the sensor, causing its resistance to drop and light the bulb. It could have spent a long time in that "hot" mode inside a low fuel situation while in the showroom whenever the key was on, thereby using up it's useful life. Both the speedo cable and sensor were replaced under warrantee. Good thing, as the normal dealer invoice was for several hundred bucks.

Hey guys, I just returned from Europe and replied to Woodburn. Sorry for the delayed response. However, before I left back on the 15th, I released another batch and expect everything to be completed this coming Friday. This time, I made another improvement. The shift lever connecting rod now has left and right hand threads on opposite ends, and I am supplying a left hand threaded ball rod end and nut to replace the original ones. This will make it possible to adjust the shift lever height without disconnecting the rod end from the bell crank. It's true that adjusting the shift lever position is theoretically just a one time task. Nevertheless, I thought it was a worthwhile improvement. Fine adjustments should be possible in minutes. Think of it like a turnbuckle. The connecting rod is made of stainless, so even if one has to reach in there with pliers to turn it, no need to worry about peeling off plating and exposing raw steel to corrosion. If the original rod loosened, it could rotate without the rider experiencing any change in shift lever position, potentially leading to it falling out of one of the ball rod ends altogether. With the new rods, the advantage is that any change will be noticed in shift lever position. I'll be taking a look at handlebar extensions and center stands next. John Thanks much for the kind words, Sante Fe Rider. It makes the extra effort really worthwhile. If you have ever had to assemble toys for kids, it's a very good lesson in how important it is to make it easy for someone counting on you for a quality product. I remember getting pretty frustrated with trying to force things to go together in spite of the poor quality, or instructions that must have been written by someone that had never actually tried them. Sorry for the late reply, Woodburn. I sent you a reply yesterday. I'll be able to check my email daily from now on. I was just isolated while sailing for two weeks. Cheers, John

Hi Ratchethack, Do you know if this is an issue with my '04 Sport?

I would expect that synchronizing using vacuum measurement would balance the throttle openings independent of mixture. On a carb engine the idle mixture can then be adjusted without interraction. How would your method account for the interraction? On an injected engine, I suppose your method assumes idle mixture is balanced automatically and accurately by the injection system. It gets tricky when idle speed screws set throttle position independent of throttle linkage. On my Norton, for normal driving conditions, smooth idle and part throttle response, I would synchronize with the idle speed screws first, then adjust the separate cables to the carbs so they both lifted off simultaneously. For racing conditions where maximum power was the goal. the cables would instead be adjusted to open both carbs to the same amount at 3/4-full open.

Cliff's later message with links shows 3750 ohms at 20 C, rather than 3.7K at 10.

I'm not sure whether that's the permanent or "removable" version. It's probably the latter. Even so, loctite on plastic is really begging for destroying it when trying to remove it. Another reason for metal. Anyone know what the specs are on the low fuel level thermistor for my '04 Cafe Sport which was just replaced under warrantee? If there is another failure, I'd like to be able to test it myself, without going through another two week diagnostic and repair lost use of the bike by the local dealer. If I'm lucky, it will just be a bulb if it happens again, which I think I can handle.

Having seen more structural plastic parts fail than I care to count, every time it happens, I wish the part had been zinc die cast. The tooling cost is virtually identical, as are the savings in machining time. Zinc costs less than brass, and yes, more than the cheapest thermo-plastic, but when the cost of premature failure is added to the plastic part, there is no contest. So-called engineered plastics, which cost several times more than ordinary thermoplastic have their place in applications such as V-8 intake manifolds, where weight savings are key and temperatures moderate. In my opinion, small parts which have to sustain mechanical stress or deal with elevated temperatures are better done with die cast zinc. It also makes one heck of a lot better conductor.

Hi Kevin, I've been thinking about your comment that the shifts seem to be more exacting. There are two reasons this would be expected: First, the pressed in bushings which the pivot screw rides in are precision machined and pressed in, instead of the split bushings used in the original lever. Second, the leverage is the same as original, but the shift lever is much longer, so any backlash in the pivot results in proportionately less slop at the toe end of the shift lever.

Hi Matt, Thanks for your payment. It was received while I was away in California last week. Your controls were shipped out this past Tuesday, May 30th by USPS priority express. They should arrive by Friday, today, in time for the weekend, with any luck. best, John

I have used UPS successfully in the past on shipments to the UK and Canada, but only when the value was in 5-6 figures. They can be very efficient in terms of delivery. This shipment was via US Postal Services Air Parcel Post. Near as I can tell, they kept their 3-5 business day promise, but apparently it got tied up in UK customs, so the delivery time extended to 11 days. Within the US, UPS used to be the least costly way to go for a 1-2 day delivery, and still offers superior tracking over the Internet, but now the US Postal Service offers less costly alternatives for small packages, like these comfort controls. Knowing it's riding season, I have been springing for a few extra bucks to deliver faster. They have been delivering within that promise, and I'm pleased with that. If you are interested in purchasing these controls, I'll work with you to avoid unpleasant surprises as best I can. Cheers, John Message to Matt H: Hi Matt, Your check arrived while I was away in California, and I just rolled in last night. Sorry you haven't heard from me sooner. I expect to ship your controls by the day after tomorrow- May 30, via priority express mail. regards, John

Hi John, Glad they've arrived, though the customs charge seems very high. Customs duty to the U.K. has generally run between 2 and 8% in the many shipments I have previously made to the U.K. of various high-tech machine controls. Regarding P/O charges, that's a real surprise, as I prepaid the shipping at my end. You should only have had to pay customs duty. Thanks for posting the picture of the parts. It gives people considering these controls an idea of what's included. There's a lot more to it than just the 5 main components, because my goal was to avoid you having to purchase anything to install. There are a number of stainless steel and custom machined items included. best regards, John

When the orginal battery failed by leaking within 2 weeks, I did a lot of research on the cause of the problem, and ended up using my long term (30+years) favorite, Yuasa. The Yuasa YTX15L has the correct polarity and comes factory prepared. Yuasa does not recommend the -BS for horizontal applications. In North America, Bombardier in Canada is the source. On my '04 Cafe Sport, I had to bend the front legs of the battery support down 5/8" to keep the weight of the seat off the battery case, and also had to carve a piece out of the plastic seat base near the battery terminal for the same reason. It did the carving with a Dremel tool and filled the hole with silicon rubber silastic compound. This has performed fine since I installed it one year ago, and with many years of good experience with Yuasa, I do not expect any. Time will tell. I have no experience on whether Indonesia has the same quality control as Japan, but I would expect Yuasa to be diligent about that.

Hi gvu, Thanks for the request I've sent you an email message with all the info.

Message to Matt H: Hi Mike, Thanks for counting yourself in on the next batch. I have just started another batch, but I couldn't see any way in your message to contact you. Try sending me a personal message, and we can link up. Cheers, John

If you have a beam to attach to, as an alternative to a bike lift, you could consider using a chain hoist. With the seat off, I pass a 1 inch sling through the frame between the tank and battery, and another sling around the handlebar. Both are attached to the chain hoist hook. It can be raised up a few feet, and leaves the entire bike level and accessible to work on while I'm sitting down if I want to.

I can't help with a shop in NorCal, but you might be interested in a set of controls I made. They move the pegs and brake and shift levers forward 5-1/2 inches and down about 1.7 inches for a far more comfortable, natural position. The original feel and adjustment ranges were kept the same. Several Guzzisti's aksed me to produce them and the first sets went out yesterday. You can find about them by searching under "Foot forward controls", or send me a personal message and I'll answer any questions you have.

Isn't the large hole in the sloppage plate clearance for the filter? If so, and the filter mounts as usual, it would provide the extra clearance you seek. I think I recall seeing some pix that would answer this. Or you could ask Pete Roper.

Drilling aluminum with a new steel drill should not cause it to dull with just this one job, or fifty more like it. However, if too many chips accumulate on the drill bit without escaping, it might clog and make a mess of the hole. Be careful to keep a firm grip on the drill in case to avoid it snagging and driving itself in like a screw. Better to back the drill out every so often to clear the chips, rather than trying to drill all the way in one attempt. When you use a tap in aluminum, once you get it started, turn it clockwise one turn at a time and counterclockwise 1/2 to 3/4 turn to break the chips before continuing. If it becomes difficult to break the chips, back the tap all the way out and clean it. If you keep going ahead clockwise too far, the chips can jam. Then, when you try to take the tap out, it can get stuck good enough to break the tap. When I first tapped aluminum years ago, I broke a few into aluminum before I wised up. Apologies if you already know all this.

Try a Heli-Coil insert. The coil is diamond shaped in cross-section, and is stronger than the original threads. The original hole is tapped (probably a special tap) with the same thread pitch but larger diameter. Any decent automotive engine rebuilding firm should know all about it.

FOR SALE new genuine Guzzi Centauro parts: left and right footpeg brackets with special brake bracket stud, shift lever w/rubber boot and screw. Paid over $450, sell all for $250. home: 845-258-1393, Warwick, NY, 10990, or send personal message.

The stationary pump could pass some through its working clearances, I suppose. If there is any pocket for air to get trapped in the oil distribution system, that could have the effect of acting like an accumulator, and provide pressure for a short time after the pump stopped. Perhaps this could force some oil backwards. It is likely the pressure would very quickly drop below the relief valve cracking pressure, so not much, if any, would escape that way. I suppose some could work its way past the working clearances of the pump. In high pressure hydraulic systems, reverse flow can be very damaging to filter elements. Similar to the automotive oil filters, the oil comes into the outside of the element and flows out from the inside. Some filters we use can withstand 3000 psi on the inlet and zero on the outlet without collapsing, if they become totally clogged. However, reverse pressure can blow up the pleated element like a balloon if high enough. To prevent this, we add check valves at the inlet of the filter, and sometimes outlet as well, depending on the application, which often include large accumulators downstream of the filter. On balance, an anti-drainback (i.e. check) valve in this application may not be necessary, but is cheap insurance, in my opinion.

The Purolator L10241 Premium Plus (not PL10241) is listed as a cross for the Guzzi, $3.18 at Auto Zone. I would steer clear of the PL version with the PTFE treated gasket. The ML16822 is listed by Purolator for the Guzzi at about $13. There is no significant difference in specs according to Purolator's website. I don't recall where, but I had asked about the need for an anti-drainback valve for a vertical application elsewhere on the forum, and was convinced by the answer it was good to have, for what that's worth.

As Ratchethack points out emphatically, there has been no long term statistical study to prove one filter loosens any more often than another. However, laws of physics are fairly reliable tools for analysis and prediction. In addition to comparing sealing performance, my study did disclose that the Purolator filters permit more tightening turns and more squeeze of the gasket than the UFI, and therefore permitted the gasket to act like a longer compression spring. Longer springs will decrease force less for each increment of relaxation, and that indicates there is less likelihood of loosening. However, as I've said before, that does not mean UFI filters will always loosen if tightened enough. See the FAQ for details If you want a redundant approach, other threads have suggested hose clamps on the filter. There have also been concerns about the clamp coming loose. NAPA offers a variety of clamps, some of which are spring or Belleville washer loaded to maintain clamping force for critical applications. This type should stay on the filter can reliably if that's an approach you wish to take.

Me too on the tightening. So you have an idea what all the fuss is about, the background is, in summary: 1. Some filters have loosened, causing engine damage. 2. As a new Guzzi owner, I wanted to find out why, so I used my background in hydraulic system and seal design to analyze the UFI and other designs to try to find the cause. 3. It caught me attention that the UFI filter was the only filter of this type I had ever seen with a torque spec on tightening rather than the usual 3/4 to 1 turn spec. When I removed mine, I found it came off much too easily for my taste. 4. The UFI and Purolator designs were compared. (I have no financial interest in Purolator, it's just what I have been using). 5. The UFI design was found to deviate from standard industry seal design practice and my practical experience, whereas the Purolator was within SIP. My conclusion was that tightening the UFI as specified was less reliable than by the turns method, and that it would not be possible to tighten it using the turns method to achieve optimum seal reliability. That does not mean that it cannot be tightened to prevent loosening, but it is more difficult and there is some risk. In comparison, the Purolator design makes it straightforward to use the turns method, and in my opinion, more reliable. Finally, there may well be other filters that have designs as good or better than the Purolator. I only compared the old and new versions of UFI, Purolator, and SuperTechs. The SuperTech design was similar to the UFI. Some of the hard data can be found in the FAQ section. If you're interested, the Purolator L10241 is listed as a cross to the UFI. They also offer a motorcycle cross to the UFI, which appears to have the same specifications as the L10241, but with a higher price. Bottom line for me for my next filter change is the L10241 tightened to 1-1/8 turns, or more if it feels like it will take it.