Ryland3210

The sealed version has epoxy around the base of the metal terminals where they go through the plastic base of the relay. Water reaching contacts will eventually cause corrosion. In the location on my '04 Cafe Sport, for example, the relays are mounted terminals downwards in a locaton protected well from rain. The unsealed version will probably be just fine in that location, unless you like to power wash your bike and think you might blast that area. That's why I decided to offer both versions. There is no advantage to the unsealed version except they cost less. I'm going with the sealed version on my bike because the $3 extra is "cheap insurance" in my view. I plan to replace all my relays with these to reduce the chance of any breakdown on the road, and keep one or two of the original ones on hand as spares. Of course, there is nothing wrong with buying an extra Omron as a spare, and that's the smart way to go. If I wasn't the type to keep baloney skin spare tires in my cars, I probably would. Cheers, John

I'm not set up for Paypal, but as W.C. Fields once said, "I like children, girl children, between 18 and 21". Alternatively, here goes: My introductory pricing is $8 for the sealed version and $5 for the unsealed for my friends on this forum that have waiting patiently. I can only offer the SPDT version, which will work in all positions. This is basically at my cost. If volume builds, I'll keep the prices at that level. If not, I will consider raising prices later on. Shipping and packing cost will be $5.00 regardless of quantity, because I can fit lots of them in the US Postal Service mailer. Please send check or money order payable to Matra Inc., addressed to: John Mickowski 50 Walling Road Warwick, NY 10990 Remember to include your shipping address and how many of each type.

The " negative pressure" relative to atmospheric for a particular engine depends on many factors. In my high compression 383, at cruise speeds it ran around 16 inches Hg, or -7.9 psi (29.92 inches being standard atmospheric pressure), and 20 at idle. In my 302 boat engine, it runs about 10" Hg at cruise and only 12 at idle. ignition timing, valve timing, compression ratio, RPM, engine load, and other variables all affect the intake manifold vacuum. When decelerating from high RPM with throttles closed, I would not be surprised if vacuum increased to 25 or even higher inches Hg. The effect of pressure on fuel flow rate will closely follow Bernoulli's Principle, so the flow rate will be proportional to the square root of the pressure change. Square root of 1.17=1.082, so it's not as huge a difference in AFR. So connecting the hose to the intake manifold will lean out the mixture somewhat at cruise and much more on closed throttle decels. It should make little difference at WOT unless the air filter and/or airbox itself is significantly restrictive. In that case, the fuel delivery will automatically compensate for the restriction at WOT if the hose is connected to the intake manifold. In my case, with no airbox cover, I expect no measureable difference at WOT, and some extended cruising range. The point on whether the map was done assuming the hose was connected is well taken. Even if the map assumed it was connected, if the dealer or Luigi left the hose off, the result would be a richer mixture under some operating conditions and no change in others. That's on the safe side for them, and they aren't buying our fuel.

Here Here! Using either or both idle screws can work. We've been through all this analysis before. The advantage of using only the left is that it prevents backlash in the connecting linkage from changing the balance between idle and above. Here's why: If there is backlash and the right idle screw is in contact at idle, it shifts the connecting linkage from tension to compression, causing the left throttle to close more relative to the right at idle. Then, when the throttle is cracked, the left opens first as the connecting linkage shifts from compression to tension. If the procedure is followed step by step as docc says, there is no advantage to using the right idle screw, only a possible disadvantage.

I'm ready to ship Omron high reliability relays! I'm happy to say I have Dan Pruneske's blessing. I didn't want to interfere with his livelihood, so I offered to supply him as an exclusive distributor. Dan declined because he does not want to add to his retail business. He's making $150/hour on CE consulting, and it isn't worth it to him to expand it and take more of his time. On top of that, he has plenty of outside activities. Dan even offered to set up a link to my website once I get some info on the relays there. He's a good man. My field is mechanical, electrical and hydraulic, which depend on the U.S. manufacturing base. That's been declining fast since China was given most favored nations status, so I'm hungry. Interestingly, Dan's view on specs is pretty sceptical. He gave me no pushback on the relay comparison I did. He feels manufacturers can put out any specs they want. In my case, I believe Japanese and U.S. makers are more credible than the notorious Chinese. My introductory pricing is $8 for the sealed version and $5 for the unsealed for my friends on this forum that have waiting patiently. I can only offer the SPDT version, which will work in all positions. This is basically at my cost. If volume builds, I'll keep the prices at that level. If not, I will consider raising prices later on. Shipping and packing cost will be $5.00 regardless of quantity, because I can fit lots of them in the US Postal Service mailer. Please send check or money order payable to Matra Inc., addressed to: John Mickowski 50 Walling Road Warwick, NY 10990 Remember to include your shipping address and how many of each type. Thanks for your patience.

Those Western Union money orders are great! Have to go to one of their concessions with the magic number, but bango! Cash available world wide within minutes of the sending party's order. No banks playing games with "clearing" delay while they use our money interest free, and the fees are low. For small amounts, beats checks any day, and worth the drive to a concession. In my area it's quite rural, and yet there are 3 within a 10 mile radius. One is at UPS, another at a petrol station, and another at a supermarket. For objective proof the Roper Plates are worthwhile, see the "pressure guage adapted" thread for test results. Nice work, Pete.

Point 1. My guage is the mechanical type. I was surprised at the slight drop during accel as well. I suppose there is more oil consumption at higher RPM's, but the pump's flow rate increases as well. The difference might be ordinarily be pressure drop in the filter as flow increases, but then the relief valve is after the filter, so I'm puzzled too. It's only a few psi, so no worries, but it is strange. Point 2. If I were me, I wouldn't trust me either.

Two reports: 1. I started the bike this morning after it was in the garage all night at about 60 degrees F. It idled at 60 psi with the 20W50 oil. After warming it up, riding in 30 degree weather, pressure stayed at 65 psi when cruising. Interestingly, it was at 60 at idle, and also at WOT acceleration. 2. With Roper Plate installed, refilled with 4 quarts, pressure remained at 60 from 2000 to redline in first gear and also through second, both at WOT without "wheelies". This verifies that it cured the pump starvation I had experienced before installation of the Roper Plate. I cannot say what would happen if one executed a wheelie. I'm happy with the results from the Roper Plate. My recommendations are to avoid WOT in first gear if you do not have one of these valuable additions, and to refill with 4 quarts with filter change, and keep the oil level up there.

I must say,in comparing the FBF pistons, it appears to me that the shortened skirts and lack of weight reduction on the sides around the wristpin are examples of cost reduction having too high a priority.

If you aren't aware of the dipstick marking question, here is a quick summary: When I refilled my sump with 3.5 liters, the level was still about 0.23" vertically below the gasket, and about 0.69" above the full mark with dipstick screwed in. I did a test before installation of the Roper Plate with a 4 quart refill. In first gear from a rolling start, accelerating at full throttle without doing a wheelie, my oil pressure gauge took a dive towards zero when I hit about 5,000 RPM. That's even with a little more oil than the 3.5 liter spec in my manual. Pete recommends filling up to just under the plate, as I recall. That would correspond to 0.33+0.69= 1.02" above the full mark. I haven't figured out how much oil that would take, but it's more than 4 quarts. Here's a picture during my installation:

I adjusted my TPS deliberately low as well, but only after getting the baseline 150 mv right. The lower idle TPS gives slightly better fuel economy with standard mapping. Agreed on the fast idle lever, but its cable must be checked to make sure it does not interfere with the TPS and synch adjustments when off. In the procedure, only the left idle screw is involved in the setup. The right one is backed off to eliminate backlash in the connecting rod linkage. If the fast idle cable is too tight, and prevents the right throttle from being controlled by the connecting rod, backlash can cause the throttles to be out of synch at idle. Also, as the throttle is cracked, the left throttle will begin opening first, before the right.

Mike, with due respect, although what you suggest may be simpler, it runs the risk of leaving errors in TPS calibration untouched. Once the carefully considered and scientifically developed procedure is done, future adjustments can be made very easily. However, my own experience shows that factory calibration can be far off. Had I taken the shortcut you suggest, I'd still be burning 10% more fuel with the shorter cruise range as well. Warm at idle was not found necessary for TPS calibration. That can be done cold. Having the engine warm for throttle sych is worthwhile.

No, they're fine, but remember you will need another gasket, and maybe two, if you want insurance against the original coming off in pieces. FWIW, the gasket came off easily in my case. I greased the gaskets before putting it back together so it will be easy next time, too. Greg's instructions and pix are a great resource as well.

AND back off the right throttle body's idle screw to ensure the butterfly is fully closed, AND adjust the fast idle mechanism if it does not let the butterfly close completely. Beware of piecemeal instructions. Best follow the proven instructions in the How to Section to the letter to leave nothing to chance. :!:

Hi Dave, In an earlier post, I reported: "One of the members and I have been discussing how fast oil pressure builds on cold starts with 15W40 oil. I thought I would share the results with everyone. I left my beloved bike out in the cold last night, knowing it was going to dip below freezing. There was still frost on the grass and the air temperature was 34 F. There was condensation on the bike, so I knew it was good and cold. While I was cranking to get it started, pressure started to build almost instantly. Within 3 seconds of relatively slow cranking, before the engine even sputtered, pressure was up to 20 psi and climbing fast. I estimate the engine was turned over 10 revolutions at most, by which time it reached 40, and still kept climbing. When it started, it jumped to 65. at 2000 RPM, it was at 80 psi, which appeared to be the relief valve's effective limit at this low an oil temperature. Normally it stays around 50-60 when fully warmed up, depending on ambient temperature. Conditions are my '04 Cafe Sport with about 4000 miles, Purolator L10241 filter, 15W40 Shell Rotella oil." This is an extreme condition, but it's all the data I have at the moment. Had the bike not started, it was heading for over 40 PSI at idle. My recollection is that it was around 65 psi at idle. Since then, I have changed to 20 W50 oil. I'll see if I can start the bike at a more typical temperature and report back, but I want to wait until it's a decent riding day. I don't want to start it without giving it a good run, and it's snowing.

Hi Kev, I checked the gallery, and have two things to say: The forward foot controls should bolt right on. The pressure guage manifold can be mounted using either of the two screw locations astride the center of the instrument panel bracket. I could not find any picture of the top of the engine block between the cylinders to see whether it has the banjo bolt with dual oil feed to the cylinder heads. If it does, that's a bolt on for the adapter with the pressure port for the gauge. John

Good practical data. I'm still not sure whether it's better to start the engine and keep it at idle, or reduce the time to build pressure by going to 2,000 RPM, for example. In journal bearings, hydrodynamic oil film is easier to maintain at higher RPM's all other things being equal. So one way to look at it is that if there is residual oil in the bearing, perhaps metal to metal contact is better avoided by immediately going to a moderate RPM as soon as she starts.

Yes, I have been making up kits, but volume has been low, so I haven't been able to justify a modified mounting scheme. One customer has used an existing location on the instrument panel and one of the two screw locations on the adapter. It seems to work fine. I believe the manifold the gauge mounts to is compact enough that it should be straightforward to make up a sheet metal plate for it to connect to using the two screw locations. The DIY sheet metal fabrication would be made to adapt to the forks, or the brackets for the clutch or brake lever. I guess my answer is that it only makes sense to offer complete kits as they are.

Sure, what better way for products to get improved? Since it means an expensive pattern change, and I wasn't kidding when I said I have had no other comments to this effect, I have been reluctant to spend the additional $1500 for a one off. Let's discuss this offline. I have an idea.

No problem.

That depends on where the pressure is being measured. For example, if right at the pump outlet, your interpretation might be correct. On the other hand, if the pressure is monitored at the farthest point in the oil feed system from the pump, then it isn't. The location for my adapter is on the banjo fitting feeding the heads, which is somewhere in between. Remember that the pump in question is a fixed displacement type, so the flow rate is the same, regardless of viscosity, unless the pump has significant leakage. However, if it does, the higher viscosity oil leaks less, and flow rate to the bearings will be slightly higher. In the case where there is no significant pump leakage, even though the flow rates are the same and oil reaches the bearings at the same time, higher viscosity oil builds pressure faster because the pressure drop through the bearings is higher. There is the pressure relief valve to consider. Until pressure reaches its cracking pressure, the full flow of the pump is delivered to the bearings. If the passages to the bearings were very small, then your point would be well taken, since the relief valve might bypass oil before it got to the bearings, and lower viscosity oil would have the advantage. However, I suspect, admittedly without having looked into the passage designs, is that they are designed to provide very little flow restriction.

Look in the How To section. You will find a condensed thread on TPS setup with pictures right near the top. To monitor the voltage at the throttle body, I use two short lengths of thin stranded wire of about 30 gauge. Disconnect the TPS cable. Strip about 1/4-3/8 insulation off the ends of the stranded wires, insert a stripped end into the connector, and push the connector in part way, far enough to make electrical connection, but no need to jam it all the way. It isn't difficult to move the TPS to adjust the TPS voltage. The trick is that it moves a bit as you tighten the screw down again, so a little "Kentucky Windage" has to be used to get it right. It's no big deal. A couple of trial and error attempts will do the trick. A voltmeter with readings to 0.5XX volts DC is best (three digits below the decimal on a 0.5 volt reading). If you want to cover yourself, measure the voltage before you make any adjustment, so you know where it was originally, in case you want to return it to where it was. It is worth the effort. My factory calibrated '04 was quite a bit off even when it was new, and the throttle synch procedure is easy. My bike ran better, and fuel economy jumped up from 38 to 42 MPG.

Here is a website with pix of the pressure gauge kit on my '04 Cafe Sport. It has also been applied to the LeMans successfully. www.motratech.com and a link: http://www.motratech.com/Welcome.html

No luck in Guzziology wrt Centauro pressure gauge adaption. Lots of technical detail, but no pictures where that would help. However, if it has the banjo fitting on the top of the block which feeds oil to the cylinder heads, my adapter will work fine. The gauge manifold is set up to mount with two screws. One of my customers has mounted it using just the one, on a LeMans. One screw is enough from the strength standpoint, and any convenient form of friction under the manifold can be used to prevent loosening if that is necessary.

Thanks, John. I aim to please. You had one of the first batch sets. I recall you giving me feedback on the toe position. As a result, later sets included a left hand threaded ball rod end, LH/RH connecting rod and LH nut to replace the original. This makes it easy to fine tune the shift pedal position. The connecting rod is also shorter than the original it replaces to lower the range of pedal positions available. It's a matter of personal preference, of course, so adjustment is provided. FWIW, there have been no other critical comments besides yours on the pedal position, perhaps because of the later improvements. Cheers, John