fotoguzzi

when you get the tank off, inspect the area around the steering head (under side of tank) be sure it's not rubbing a hole thru from a frame crossmember..

- Replaced cam chain and tensioner for the Stucci type with spring. Cold idle improved again, no change. Rattle remained. He did that.. hard for me to hear anything not normal in the video accept what sounds like you dropped a tool off camera.. better than a hose put the butt of a big screw driver to your ear and place the tip around the block, heads, timing cover etc to try isolating the noise.

Some had a da$h problem and the bike won't run if that happens.. join up at wildguzzi.com there's a lot of info on that there..

LIKE

Diesel Hero.. headlight detaches as a hand held light, motor powers a electric generator when you park!

LOL !

note, when you grease the middle zirk on the DS you'll want the axle in (if rear wheel off) or the shaft will expand lengthwise and you won't get the axle lined up until you remove the zirk fitting a let some grease out..

did you get it?

that's Ok cause the seat doesn't look very comfy.

is everything running good now?

mounted yet, pics? and video please

I could do that work in under 3 hours..If I don't stop for Latte... longest part being the brake and clutch fluid purge. and I'd check the TPS setting while at it.. you too could do all that stuff yourself.. being in NY I bet you got the hose job.. 6-7 hours labor? If your dealer charged 2 hours labor- keep him!

tell me about it, RIP my VW Golf (well over 100k).. and wife's Saturn. (78,000 miles warranty just ran out) .both had chains not timing belts.. owners/service manual said nothing about replacing them.. my current beater Toyota has a non interference motor, waiting for that belt to pop next..

they stretch before they wear..

Wait, what? your selling her ?

turning over 100,000 miles? I'd treat her to some fresh bought store product of what the book calls for..

OK, I might be remembering my Bassa latch.. sorry..

I think the latch mount has slotted holes so it can be raised in height, maybe you just need to line it up closer?

note Nm, is that different from foot pounds?

I don't see it either but I found this chart in the 2000 V11 manual DESCRIPTION Nm (note) Nut and stud bolt for head-cylinder tie-rods 40÷42 Fastening screws for rocker pins 6÷8 Spark plugs 20÷30 Hollow screws fastening the oil delivery piping to the heads (ø8x1,25) 15÷18 Nut fastening the gearing to the camshaft 150 Intake pipe fastening screws 20 Fastening screws for connecting rod caps(ø10x1) 61÷66 Screws fastening the flywheel to the crankshaft(ø8x1,25) - using medium strength Loctite 40÷42 Flywheel crown fastening screws(ø6x1) 15÷17 Crankshaft pinion locking nut(ø25x1,5) 110÷120 Alternator locking nut(ø16x1,5) 80 Front and rear brake calipers draining union 7÷10 Oil filler cap in the gearbox and transmission housing 30 Clutch draining union 8÷12 Nut locking the bearing onto the tapered pinion 180÷200 Screws fastening the crown to the drilled pin 40÷42 Fastening screw for side stand support plate 70÷75 Front wheel spindle 90÷100 Rear wheel spindle screw (housing side) 120 Fastening screws for front and rear brake disks(ø8x1,25) 28÷30 Ring nut for gearbox main shaft, universal joint side 90 Ring nuts for gearbox secondary shafts 80 Ring nut for gearbox main shaft, clutch side 100 Head temperature sensor casing (using Loctite 601) 10÷12 Head temperature sensor 10÷12 Hollow screw fastening the clutch piping and front brake to the pump 20 Radiator oil piping unions 25÷30 STANDARD VALUES Screws and nuts ø 4 3÷3,5 Screws and nuts ø 5x0,8 6÷7 Screws and nuts ø 6x1 8÷12 Screws and nuts ø 8x1,25 25÷30 Screws and nuts ø 10x1,5 45÷50 Other tightening torques are indicated on the drawings for the suspension assemblies, front and rear wheel.

I just used a channel lock pliers to loosen that nut and replace it w/a hex nut.

Blasphemer, the Nero is the most stunning Guzzi ever.. keep as is..