fotoguzzi

pretty cool!

check for a local Guzzi group, maybe find them here; http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=3438b1bacf46170470b6ec47f066c897&board=1.0

you may never solve the vibration issue. note how the frame mounts to the front of the block and right to the steering head.. that never bothered me with the throttle bodies sync'd and good engine tune.. new OEM headers will not look any better than what you have probably.. but getting rid of the front cross over is a fine idea as long as you have a mid x-over. Guzzitech knows their stuff and is tops in the knowledge dept in the USA.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=67447.0

OK I hear you.. I'm still waiting for my friend, if he ever sells his V11TT, I will try to get it..

Yes Guzzidiag is the answer and a power commander is not. why not just hop on one of your B bikes when you want more * ? not dissing you but pouring that kind of money into a pushrod V twin is beyond my spending habits.. I'd ride it for what it is close to stock and look at the other bikes for all out performance.. in fact I let go of mine once I brought home a Buell.. sorta like a Guzzi with more torq.. and less wheel base.

Oddesey batteries do not like the "battery tender" brand I hear.. they need a special charger I think. bring it back where you got it for a replacement under warranty?

Where is that, exactly? maybe the cup that the rod pushes on in the center of clutch?

why not just try and tune it right w/Guzzidiag and then you won't need a PC.. It will still be the slowest bike in your collection.

not sure if this helps but you need the clutch plates all aligned and it should slip together?

when I had mine I flipped the CPU upside down so the plug was under it not on top, then pressure from the seat pan was not jiggling it.. the plug or input point may be deformed or some broken pins/solder points inside. this is common on many Buell's.. as seen here,

so you need the ends that plug into the main wiring harness, not the main harness plugs right? because I have a main wiring loom from an EV that has the same connectors accept the CPU plug.. could you use that? I might have the electric petcock from an EV and you could cut that end off to use, I'd want about 20 bucks for it. I also have some of the plugs from the cam and crank sensors and maybe other stuff too..

if the harness is cheap just get it in case.. in order of buisines I would be positive you have a good battery, these bikes do not run well if battery is low.. (altho yours sounds fine if you can start it right up). and check that the sidestand switch is in good condition. here is the relay guy, http://dpguzzi.com/

I can't remember for sure but the hieght of the latch mechanism might be adjustable.

Nice! that new? connection to the ECU worries me some.. can you get pics of it? symptoms do sound like it could be TPS related.. I'd want to have the Guzzidiag set up before messing around with the TPS.. could be the ECU plug itself, does it plug in tight? is the seat pushing on it when you sit on it?

NICE! liked the kiln report..and pics.

Thanks for the encouragement. Do I need the bike warmed up to find the 150mV and the 521mV? I thought that a cold bike is alright for that. I understand that the throttle-sync needs a warm bike. no you do not need motor warm to set the TPS voltage, it does not even have to be running. May I ask why do you need both throttle stop screws? I read that the right one can be left backed-off, and the left used to adjust. Would not the left just hold the adjustment by itself? if link rod has no slop you can rely on one stop screw I am looking to cleaning the throttle bodies as much as I can. trying how to remove the manifolds without removing the airbox, bodies etc. More fiddling this weekend. that will be a waste of time, just get to setting the TPS and then off idle sync then balance for idle with air bleed screws. forget the baseline setting of 150mv.. just set the throttle stop screw to contact the plate and adjust the TPS to 525mv or something close.

cool, I sent you my spare TPS but shucks I didn't think of adding a few relays.. you should be able to get relays at an auto parts store if you bring yours in to compare.. If they are Seimens relays (stock) many of them turned out to be less than reliable so for just a few bucks you could swap them out for good measure. can you get the stock airbox with it, in case.. personally, I don't like those pod filters.

yes please explain the problem the bike has.. I have a used TPS that is working condition.. send me an adress and I will send it to you, free.

to me that sounds like a loose battery connection or failing battery..

get some black rocker covers and that thing will look awesone! or paint over the ugly red on them.

that's a little bit of faith you should get over.. I would swap all relays for new if they are the Seimens brand (stock).. but agree the bullet connectors under left front of tank might be the problem.. after that ignition switch.. clutch in when starting right? oh, is your kill switch activated?

That's not normal.

you don't say the mileage but could the butterfly pin be loose (worn) in the holder so it can wiggle around and not be landing in the same closed position each time>?

what's that?