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Everything posted by fotoguzzi
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I never trusted those thin/fine threads of the manhole to hold up.. and by dropping the pan I could use a hose clamp.. you guys are not hose clamp converts?
- 8 replies
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- Oil filter
- tools
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(and 1 more)
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Preemptive Shift Return Spring and Pawl Arm Replacement
fotoguzzi replied to sp838's topic in Technical Topics
http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=139- 48 replies
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- false neutrals
- gearbox
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(and 2 more)
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Best thing you could do is ditch that front cross over for straight header pipes and also loose the stock mid crossover for a Mistral or Stucci x-over (under the tranny) . AND REV THAT MOTOR, it loves cruising at 5k and above. shift at 5 k or above too.
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YES
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do you have a cross over in the headers? they have cracked and leak air.. be sure valves are not set too tight. do you trust the service tech that did the work last? that negative trim setting does not sound right.
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water in tank? suck or drain it out and get fresh gas. do you have electric petcock? look carefully at the wires coming out the bottom. not easy to spot but it is easy for the wire there to break. clean battery terminals, coat with Vaseline.
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this thing is too simple to be so effective. $20. Aerostich.. better than the Throttlemiester I had before.
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Moto International is a Premium dealer.. they will fix you right. parts no problem, cheaper than BMW. the V11 6 speed is wonderful. I'm 5'10" and it fit me perfect once I added bar risers. it's not a simple deal to remove the Lemans fairing but you won't want to, it works! no you don't get too hot from the heads or anything else really (try a Buell if you want to know heat) I wear (experienced) Roadcrafter always. you can become 1 with a Lemans. sadly I don't have mine since this spring (traded for a Miata) my Uly has more of everything including character.
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how many miles? maybe replace the timing chain once in there.
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the heads are air cooled so yep it's an airhead.. there is a radiator but just to cool motor oil. the V11 is the perfect jump up from a R100.. a lot more of everything and easier to work on.
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the low fuel light gets progressively brighter as tank empties so it does look weak when it first comes on.
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yea try routing the cable with no sharp bends in it.. they usually break a few inches up from the tranny so look especially around the air box.
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do you have 2 speedos? sounds like you did everything right.
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instrument lamp(Oil,charging) - light on when ingnition on?
fotoguzzi replied to rioeni486's topic in Technical Topics
yes the red battery and oil lights should be on untill bike starts. check grounds. -
only the oil vapor escapes thru the top.. when it condenses the oil in there drains through the rusty frame member and back to the motor.
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suspect something wrong with the Odessey batt.. mine crank like crazy and last all winter without even a trikle charge. including the lawn mower in shed where it went to -20F extended last winter. and yea, BTDT gettng stranded... turned out to be the regulator not my 7YO odessey..
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the cam or the follower are disintegrating? I wouldn't ride it.. have you got the Roper plate? oil starvation comes to mind..
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Yea done all that but when setting the TPS to .525v the idle is way too high even with the air screw closed. so the only way to bring it down is by backing out the left stop screw until the throttles are almost closed again. was your high idle cam (choke) loosened? that warm up lever on the left grip, if it was still connected I can see how idle was way too high. otherwise something else is messed up.
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if you have a manual petcock make sure it's all the way open, could the screen inside be clogging up?
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150Mv is the base setting (screws all out) , you need to raise it up to (525mv?) once the throttles are hooked up then adjust the air screws and sync. so just set your stop screw to 525 with key on not running, then fine tune with air bleed screws.. start bike and sync TB's above idle, 3k rpm and then go back to readjust/balance the idle with the air bleed screws.
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so you cleaned a switch and the pump got quiet?
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lift the lever over the tab as you wiggle it apart.
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ace hardware sells a swivel attachment, you set it just the right angle and it fits in, still not easy to hold it on zirk and pumpuing in grease. you need a 3rd hand.
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inspect the area around the steering head, the swelling can cause it to rub against the frame on the right inside and can even wear a hole right thru.
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Have you checked the battery connections? and the ground wire from the battery?